Thread: crinkled chiffon costume - how to lay out?

Hi ladies!

I found some fabulous polyester chiffon with an abstract pattern on it. I plan to make a circle skirt and a tie-front, full-sleeved blouse out of it. However, now I realize that the crinkle texture presents a problem. Should I stretch the fabric when I lay out the pattern pieces? When I sew the pieces together?

How about the direction of the layout? I will be mocking up the blouse pattern from an already-existing chiffon costume piece, but there is no patterning or nap on the original. Do you think I should cut the skirt in gores so the crinkle goes vertically, instead of two half-circles?

I thought this would be super-easy, but now I'm stymied before I've even started...cr.:

Can you post a picture of the fabric? Because that would make it easier to help you...is the crinkle railroaded (going from selvage to selvage) or is it in the length of the fabric (from cut edge to cut edge?) I would definitely say DON'T stretch the fabric, and gores sound like a sensible option...

how is the pattern? I am somehow imagining a simple design with 1 piece for each sleeve, 1 piece for the back, and 2 pieces for the bodice-front.

Does your pattern require you make darts, or is the crinkle of such a nature that it will have the effect of being a bit stretchy?

Originally Posted by lotus

how is the pattern? I am somehow imagining a simple design with 1 piece for each sleeve, 1 piece for the back, and 2 pieces for the bodice-front.

Does your pattern require you make darts, or is the crinkle of such a nature that it will have the effect of being a bit stretchy?

I haven't made the pattern yet, but the original garment (a simple tie-front, circle-sleeved top) has no darts. The crinkle doesn't make it extremely stretchy. I may have to dart it later, depending on how well it fits once it's made up.

hmm, just wondering about the darts, depending on how heavy/'crunchy' the fabric is, if bulk would be a problem in the finished garment.

have you ever seen this site?
Sew What’s New Archive • Sewing with crinkle fabric

(PS - one person makes a good point, which I ALWAYS forget to do - and that is about washing the fabric first. I always forget to do this, ayou think I would have learned by now, but no!)

Originally Posted by maiaraqs

Can you post a picture of the fabric? Because that would make it easier to help you...is the crinkle railroaded (going from selvage to selvage) or is it in the length of the fabric (from cut edge to cut edge?) I would definitely say DON'T stretch the fabric, and gores sound like a sensible option...

I will try.



The crinkle runs along the length of the fabric.

Originally Posted by lotus

hmm, just wondering about the darts, depending on how heavy/'crunchy' the fabric is, if bulk would be a problem in the finished garment.

have you ever seen this site?
Sew What’s New Archive • Sewing with crinkle fabric

(PS - one person makes a good point, which I ALWAYS forget to do - and that is about washing the fabric first. I always forget to do this, ayou think I would have learned by now, but no!)

That is an excellent link, thank you!

Yummy fabric! I would cut so the crinkle is vertical on the top, and gores for the skirt (so fold with selvedges together). Yes, do wash (if washable) before you cut. Post photos of the finished product, pretty please!!!