Thread: Making a bra-choli top (cabaret)--tips?

Has anyone here ever made one of those choli-type tops with a bra incorporated, like some of the Pharaonics costume designs? (I think I may have seen Bellas built that way as well.) I'm getting ready to attempt one, and trying to think of the best way to approach it. Here's my plan du jour:

1. Cover the bra base with fabric.

2. Stare at remainder of fabric in dismay for a few days. (This step may be continued indefinitely.)

3. Rough out a draft version of the sides, back, and sleeves using similarly stretchy fabric, bits of a pattern for a sleeved stretch-knit top, my dressmaker form, and lots of trial and error.

4. Use the draft version as a pattern for the remainder of the top.

I have a feeling step 3 will be a real horror fest. I've been sewing for over 20 years but am not at my best with stretch knits, or engineering a combo of stretchy and stable. Would be grateful for suggestions, advice, pattern ideas!

First I would make a U-front style choli totally separate from the bra. Try on the choli then add the bra. Decide if you want to attach the choli to the bra. I prefer having the option of wearing costumes with various choli tops or a dress. If you decide to attach the bra and choli and have a dress form in your size make adjustments that way. Otherwise have a trusted friend help with positioning the safety pins that would indicate where to hand stitch the pieces together. Due to the stretch fabric I would sew no more than five stitches prior to knotting. If a thread happens to break I don't have to worry about a gaping hole becoming evident.

Can you experiment with an inexpensive piece of fabric before committing to the real stuff? I like txchic's suggestion for the u-front choli, too. But better to make the mistakes with something cheap you don't care about, eh? Good luck, and let us know what you learn...I have a similar project awaiting me

Thank you both for the good suggestions! I was definitely planning on using some expendable fabric for a test version. I've never made a U-front choli; are there any good patterns out there for stretch fabrics? I'm sure I can adapt a fashion pattern, but when I'm trying something new I always feel more confident when I have a pattern to go by. :)

Ooh, I'm glad I found this thread was just going to ask the same question!!
How did yours turn out Ahava?

I made a vest-bra using a pattern for a Turkish style vest, and then sewing it onto a bra which I had covered ONLY the cups with fabric. The vest was made to zip up the back. It worked great, and since the bra was intact, it was really comfortable. I used "Marvash's Turkish-Arab Vest" pattern available from Artemis Imports: Artemis Imports

Thanks TamTX, I have made a U-vest before, so It's good to know I can adapt the pattern. I really want to add sleeves though too, and I guess I need to decide whether to leave armpit holes.

Has anyone got any good pictures of costumes in this style?

Thanks for the suggestion, TamTX! I still haven't embarked on this project, Firefly, so I'm still eager to collect all the advice and suggestions I can get. And photos. Like you, I'm still looking for good photos of the kind of top I envision. I've seen some of a similar top at Isis Exchange: GORGEOUS - Baby Pink Bely dance costume Belly Dance Costumes Hip Scarves and belly Dancing accessories by Isis Exchange . It's a shame they don't provide shots of the back though...

There is one...



I quite like the style of this, to me it looks as though the sleeves are just one piece, but difficult to see with them flopping about like that!

I have a pattern for just what you are looking for. It came from BD patterns. They show both a tribal and a cabaret version. Basically its a vest with sleeves sewn inti a bra, The nice thing is that the pattern also includes the pattern for the bra. So you can make the side straps with it or simply use the bra cover part of the pattern to cover an existing bra.

Souzan

Thanks, Souzan! Is this the pattern? Adira Dance and Costume: B.D. Pattern #3004 Tops with Built-in Bras and Sleeve Variations