Thread: sewing question - update :)

make that questionS. I just bought a bazillion yards of rayon challis to make a skirt for a russian gypsy program that my troupe is going to be doing. the skirt will be two full circles, floor length from the waist (not hips), with a two-tier ruffle at the bottom.

my questions:
since there will be about eight miles of hem on the ruffles, should I invest in a hem foot for my machine? whenever I've done chiffon circle skirts before, I've just done a zig zag stitch in and out of the fabric to make a kind of rolled hem. I was going to do this, but if a hem foot will work well on a bias cut ruffle, somebody let me know. I don't have a serger and don't have easy access to one.

next: I know there is some way to machine baste a ruffle. is this something easy to explain? is there more than one way to do it? I'm not too keen on hand basting the whole thing.

finally, should I wash the fabric first? I know you're supposed to for shrinkage and all that, but I don't expect to have to ever wash this skirt much if at all. do I really need to wash it or can I get away with just cutting and sewing? I *am* over a hundred dollars into this skirt with just the fabric, so I suppose I would err on the side of caution. but if anybody thinks I'll be fine with it unwashed, do let me know.

thanks!!!!!!

Wish I knew the answers but my machine and I are not talking right now. If it helps, I don't wash fabric. I asked a lady at the fabric store once if it is really necessary to do this and she said that for most fabrics it isn't really an issue. I would guess that if this is a fabric that wouldn't normally shrink or not shrink much, and you don't really plan on washing that often, don't worry about it. Then again.........I do tend to screw things up.

I've never used a hem foot, so I can't comment on that one. Next!

Originally Posted by elisagamal

next: I know there is some way to machine baste a ruffle. is this something easy to explain? is there more than one way to do it? I'm not too keen on hand basting the whole thing.

I set my stitch length to 4 (as high as mine goes) and stitch about 1/2 inch from the edge (assuming the seam allowance is 5/8 inch) the whole length of the ruffle piece. It works especially well if you do this twice (second time at 3/8 inch). Then you can hold the bobbin thread(s) on your fabric with one hand and use the other hand to scrunch the fabric along the threads to create the ruffle.

Originally Posted by elisagamal

finally, should I wash the fabric first? I know you're supposed to for shrinkage and all that, but I don't expect to have to ever wash this skirt much if at all. do I really need to wash it or can I get away with just cutting and sewing? I *am* over a hundred dollars into this skirt with just the fabric, so I suppose I would err on the side of caution. but if anybody thinks I'll be fine with it unwashed, do let me know.

Rayon shouldn't have any shrinkage even if you do wash the whole skirt later. However, I prewash all fabric (if it's washable) to remove some of the chemicals from the manufacturing process. It seems to behave better, too - removes stiffness (if there was any) and really set in wrinkles from being on the bolt.

Good luck with the skirt! I haven't made a huge skirt in some years, but I do remember that it took a looooooong time to hem. I'm sure it would be much easier now with my serger. The stores will be having lots of holiday sales - I got mine (basic model) for something like $150 and received a $30 gift card. It's been a great investment - I will never again hem chiffon without a serger.

Regarding washing the skirt - depends on the type fabric. With your $100 investment in fabric I would research the stats with the fabric source. The info should be on the end of the bolts. And if the fabric is not soft it may have sizing in it, washing would be a good idea. This is extra steps but I would probably cut-out the skirt pcs, zigzag the edges and then wash everything. Easier for me to manage pcs than endless yards of fabric.

I am not certain but I think rayon challis stretches. (Research online or ask the fabric source.) Due to being 2 full circles the skirt might need to hang 2 weeks or so in order to completely stretch prior to hemming.

Hemming foot or zigzag stitch - personal choice. You could do a bit of online research re the price and availability for your particular machine. That would help me make a decision. Personally a zigzag works for me but I have avoided making such a labor-intensive yet lovely Russian style skirt. With the amount of hemming you face it would be wise to do research.

Machine basting for me is using a long straight stitch and pulling it to create the ruffles. My old machine is a clunker with metal gears and housing yet it is like an old friend. Online research will help determine if it is worthwhile to invest in another accessory. I have a friend with twin daughters so her ruffler is a necessity.

No definitive answers from me. With the amount of fabric and labor involved in this project I would certainly want to take the correct steps to insure a high quality finished product.

Please do post pictures.

Do you mean a 'rolled' hem foot?

I love mine! It rolls the fabric inwards, and will make a cleaner edge than just the zig-in-zag-out technique.
But I don't think it will save you anymore time.

Basting is just a long straight stitch to hold the fabrics shape (i.e. curved edges, like neckline, or arms eye) just 'inside the seam allowance, or to keep pieces in place, then you will need to sew over it, with a smaller stitch, or zig-zag, on the actual seam line.

I'd wash it first, because Rayon does shrink, and if you've sewn it together before washing, your stitches will have a 'puckered' look, after it's washed.

If you want to save time, and not worry about how it looks later, then it will be easier to cut before the sizing is washed out.

Don't forget to let the skirts hang, for a while before sewing the ruffles on...the Rayon will stretch out on the bias really bad.

Rayon DOES shrink!!!

Here's a google search:

Rayon + shrink? - Google Search

I had a gorgeous pink dress, made of rayon.
When I washed it, the circle hem fell out on the bias.
And it shrank a bit...ruined it. :-(

Rolled hem foot is great - will make life much easier. Another option is purchased bias tape, will apply fairly easily and will take the wear and tear of brushing on things better than the rayon will and can be replaced if you ever need too (yes, it would be a pain to replace, but better that than replace a skirt).

I have made dance skirts out of rayon challis (bought from Dharma trading). It stretched ALOT on the bias - even after hanging it out before finishing, and yes, if you get it wet, it will shrink some. The skirts also came out weighing about nine million pounds, even though the fabric itself is fairly light. . .

It has BEAUTIFUL drape and "swish" though - and it spins in such a lovely manner (much nicer than just chiffon or cotton voile).

dang! thanks, everybody!! this advice is awesome.

I may invest in the rolled hem foot (a quick search found them at about $35). BUT, basina, the idea of using bias tape is very VERY intriguing! the main fabric I bought has burgundy and cream flowers/vines on a black ground, with little bright blue flowers scattered on it. I got solid turquoise for the ruffle (it will also have a self ruffle, in a shorter tier on top of the turquoise) to pick up the blue. I was wishing for more color splashes and bias tape would do the trick quite nicely.

I do plan to hang the skirt for as long as I can before I put the ruffle on. and yes, it's going to weigh a ton. the bag I carried out of the store weighs a LOT. :)

I have cut out pattern pieces larger than I needed...then washed the fabric.
Recut cut it to true it up... then sew...but it does take more time.

I wonder if you can find a used sewing machine that has the right size foot you need in it?
Doesn't have to be new.
They used to come with the machine.
What type of foot is your machine?

I've got a nice refurbished bernina that's probably 10 years old or more? it's all metal and really sturdy and nice. maybe it does have a foot already? I need to dig through the bag... :)

They also make feet for applying bias tape (makes it go much faster).

WASH THAT RAYON!!!!!

Rayon shrinks like a mother and if you don't prewash it, Murphy's Law dictates that you will spill something on it. Then you will have to give it away to someone 3 inches shorter than you. Or add yet another ruffle.


Also, be sure to let the circular panels hang, or maybe wet them down in the shower after cutting and let them dry wet, then reshape them before assembling the skirt.

It would also be advisable to desginate a back and a front, and reshape the back panels to be longer, in order to accommodate booty, if you have any. I really hate it when someone's circle or ruffled skirt hikes up in the back because they didn't bother to hem it to hang straight on their figure.

Rayon challis will probably ravel so a rolled hem foot will be great to fend that off. They are wonderful. Just takes a little practice to get used to it but basically pretty easy to use and makes a nice finished hem.

You rock! If it were me, I'd be sending the whole lot to a seamstress. Sewing impaired, I am.

The advantage of a rolled hem foot is that the hem will look nicer and be more secure. A rolled hem foot isn't going to save you any time over zig-zagging, though, especially since there's a bit of a learning curve on figuring out how to use it and how to get your fabric to behave. Rolled hem on a rectangle = easy. Rolled hem on a curved edge = tricky. If you've never used one before, practice with it a lot before you dig in to your nice skirt fabric. First practice with sturdy cotton rectangles, then move on to practicing on circular shapes and more finicky fabrics.

first of all, another hearty thanks for everybody's advice - it helped a LOT! I thought I'd give an update...

I found out there was a bernina store in town, so I brought some samples of the fabric and asked their advice. for the ruffle, I bought a gathering foot that plays with the tension to pucker the fabric into a ruffle (the foot will also sew two layers of fabric - puckering the bottom only and keeping the top flat, so sewing a ruffle directly onto whatever you're putting a ruffle on. cool.). that worked like a dream. I also bought a foot that applies the bias tape. omg. I love that foot so much I want to MARRY IT. it is so easy and fast and does such a fantastic job! I was only able to buy 12 yards of metallic gold bias tape in the fabric store, so I figured I'd sew that on and see how far it got me, and then guesstimate how much more to buy. I ordered (wait for it...) about 70 more yards. but it will go on so quickly and easily, I'm actually looking forward to it.

I trimmed a chunk of the fabric and washed it in warm water and air dried it, and it didn't shrink! so I'm wondering if it's not rayon? maybe it's poly or something. but at least no worries about shrinkage.

today I finished sewing the double ruffle to the hem of the skirt (which about tripled the weight of the skirt - omg! it's HUGE and heavy!) and will go back and do the bias tape when it gets here. the heavy ruffle seems to be really pulling the skirt longer than I wanted (I was afraid it was going to be too short!) so I may have to take off the waist band and shorten it from the top. I'll be storing it in a box and not on a hanger!

but it's awesome, and I'm really proud of myself for making it. I couldn't have done it without you guys, so thanks! I'll post a pic when I'm done. :)

Due to the weight you might want to add an extra piece of elastic in the waistband. I usually use 3 pieces of elastic, each in it's own casing. I use a minimum of 3/4" wide, preferably 1". The waistband is quite wide but it is secure and comfy. If you do much spinning that type skirt can easily start to shift. Your creation sounds lovely. We anxiously await pictures.

Originally Posted by txchic

Due to the weight you might want to add an extra piece of elastic in the waistband. I usually use 3 pieces of elastic, each in it's own casing. I use a minimum of 3/4" wide, preferably 1". The waistband is quite wide but it is secure and comfy. If you do much spinning that type skirt can easily start to shift. Your creation sounds lovely. We anxiously await pictures.

Or maybe you need some braces to hold it up -tee hee!

I can't wait to see it!

eta:
braces(UK)= suspenders (US)

Suspenders (UK)= garter belt (US)..l;,..l;,

Firefly, i LOVE you edit reason.

Note to self: Must check out fancy-schmancy feet for sewing machine, especially ones with marital potential.

Sounds like great things are happening with your skirt. Congratulations!

Originally Posted by elisagamal

I found out there was a bernina store in town, so I brought some samples of the fabric and asked their advice. for the ruffle, I bought a gathering foot that plays with the tension to pucker the fabric into a ruffle (the foot will also sew two layers of fabric - puckering the bottom only and keeping the top flat, so sewing a ruffle directly onto whatever you're putting a ruffle on. cool.). that worked like a dream. I also bought a foot that applies the bias tape. omg. I love that foot so much I want to MARRY IT. it is so easy and fast and does such a fantastic job! I was only able to buy 12 yards of metallic gold bias tape in the fabric store, so I figured I'd sew that on and see how far it got me, and then guesstimate how much more to buy. I ordered (wait for it...) about 70 more yards. but it will go on so quickly and easily, I'm actually looking forward to it.

I trimmed a chunk of the fabric and washed it in warm water and air dried it, and it didn't shrink! so I'm wondering if it's not rayon? maybe it's poly or something. but at least no worries about shrinkage.

today I finished sewing the double ruffle to the hem of the skirt (which about tripled the weight of the skirt - omg! it's HUGE and heavy!) and will go back and do the bias tape when it gets here. the heavy ruffle seems to be really pulling the skirt longer than I wanted (I was afraid it was going to be too short!) so I may have to take off the waist band and shorten it from the top. I'll be storing it in a box and not on a hanger!

but it's awesome, and I'm really proud of myself for making it. I couldn't have done it without you guys, so thanks! I'll post a pic when I'm done. :)

ok, so what are Braces (US) = ? as in, braces that you have on your teeth to straighten them? ;)

txchic - how do you configure the three casings? sounds like a vertical row of two or three? do you make a super wide casing and then stitch through the center of it to divide it into channels?

I did a waistband with a hook, but made a wide casing and put some really wide elastic in there (wider than an inch, I think) just to give it a little give. but now I'm thinking I don't want any give. I find myself pushing my tummy against the waistband to keep it snug, which is not a very attractive line. ;)

If you do ever decide to get a roll hem foot (which I recommend if you are trying to sew a hem in chiffon), I got mine at sears.com for $11.99 + shipping.

Kenmore Hemmer Foot Set (4mm, 6mm) for Horizontal Sewing Machines - Model 200081104 at Sears.com

They call them 'hemmer' feet.