Thread: Give me some makeup to chew on.

I am feeling like researching and finding answers.

I love problem solving and making things work.

Holler with your personal makeup challenge/pet peeve/question and we'll see if we can't find a solution.

I'm hoping other MUAs will jump in to offer alternate solutions as well b/c there is always more than 1 door to the same room and 1 solution may not work for all. There are also a GAJILLION products to try so the more we know about and how they work, the more solutions for happy faces.

ASK IT...

CAVEAT: I will do my best to answer questions that normally require me (or any other MUA) to be there in person.

I have 2 colors of lipstick that I am looking for, does that count? I got my makeup done on 2 separate occasions for photo shoots and loved the colors, but of course didn't ask how they made them. So I'd love to find duplicates.

Oh wait, I have another question. I've tried doing some looks with a dark lid, but they all make me look like I have sunken eyes. I continue to do dramatic stuff only with light lids. Here is a video of the aubergine/emerald look I love as an example.
I did however do the last violet eyes at the end with great success.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djcQ993Qv6w]YouTube - Dramatic Makeup Trend: How-To[/ame]

Originally Posted by jetgirl

I have 2 colors of lipstick that I am looking for, does that count? I got my makeup done on 2 separate occasions for photo shoots and loved the colors, but of course didn't ask how they made them. So I'd love to find duplicates.

In addition to selling pre-made makeup (lippie, eyeshadows, foundation etc) Prescriptives also make custom colours...you could bring in an englarged photo and see what they can do. Hang on, does Prescriptives even operate anymore? I'm working off an old memory!

Originally Posted by bul_bul_ksa

In addition to selling pre-made makeup (lippie, eyeshadows, foundation etc) Prescriptives also make custom colours...you could bring in an englarged photo and see what they can do. Hang on, does Prescriptives even operate anymore? I'm working off an old memory!

That's a good idea. Prescriptives does exist still.

OK, so what might work as face/body makeup to make skin look more the shape of white/gray in black and white movies ..g.:

My first thought was to try some of the lighter colors of Ben Nye pancake, but other suggestions would really rock.

Hi Azhia,
I'm actually working my way through your DVD right now!

Some questions about eyes:
How do you pick a lining/shading technique to work well with your eye and face shape?
If you have fine lines, are there certain techniques that will help and ones to definitely avoid?
Also, I have fairly long eyelashes, so should I go lighter on the lining?
Thanks!

I know that lots of bellydancers are mad about MAC for eye make up, especially. None of my local stores carry MAC because we're not a big enough market yet (at least that's what they told me). Do you know of any good non-MAC eye products, especially an eyeliner and high-pigment eye shadows, that are available at drugstores/department stores.

My local department stores tend to carry the following:
Estee Lauder
Lancome
Clinique
Shisheido (I think)
Prescriptives

That's not an exhaustive list, but it's what I can come up with off the top of my head. The drug stores basically carry your general drug store brands--Loreal, Revlon, Covergirl, Maybelline, etc.

There are also several salons that carry Aveda, which I use for every day but I'm uncertain how their eye color would be for performance.

can it be a non-dance related question?
My mom wears clown make-up regularly - she's a therapy clown, and it has to be "set" with baby powder and taken off with baby oil.

The problem, she's allergic to scents and perfumes, and she gets very congested and needs to take antihistamines with every show. What else could she use to set and remove the make up with??
They've already told her corn starch will clog the make-up so it doesn't stay on.

fyi... the brand is Mehron Performance Makeup (made in NY)

Woohoo!
Hosting a brunch at the moment but will get down to chewing in a little bit.
Keep 'em coming and I'll get to you!

How the heck do you tell what your skin "undertone" is? I've tried all the suggestions I've come across, and I *still* don't know.

What's the best lipstick color to offset/minimize yellowish teeth?

ETA: My perennial question is "how do you minimize large pores and acne scars without financial ruination"--but I understand there's only so much time in your day. :-)

Originally Posted by rachelw

I know that lots of bellydancers are mad about MAC for eye make up, especially. None of my local stores carry MAC because we're not a big enough market yet (at least that's what they told me). Do you know of any good non-MAC eye products, especially an eyeliner and high-pigment eye shadows, that are available at drugstores/department stores.

My local department stores tend to carry the following:
Estee Lauder
Lancome
Clinique
Shisheido (I think)
Prescriptives

That's not an exhaustive list, but it's what I can come up with off the top of my head. The drug stores basically carry your general drug store brands--Loreal, Revlon, Covergirl, Maybelline, etc.

There are also several salons that carry Aveda, which I use for every day but I'm uncertain how their eye color would be for performance.

I'm not Azhia, but I have found some good makeup lines that can sub for MAC lately. The L'Oreal HIP line is very pigmented and I have had great luck with their shadows and loose pigments especially. The pigments are a bit "chunkier" in texture, but I would pick up a few of the shadow duos to play with -- and they seem to frequently be on sale with a buy one get one offer. The only caveat, you have to try them to see the true color. I have a few, and could recommend what I like if you tell me what kind of colors you are looking for. Their mascara is also very good. Another drugstore line that is good is NYX. Their shadows and lip products. This line can be found at some Longs drugs (in California). I wish I could find drugstore lipstick I liked!
In general, buy an eyeshadow primer and it will make almost any shadow work better. This has changed my eye makeup life! You could even order one from sephora or beauty.com since they usually come in one color. I like Too Faced Shadow Insurance. Good Luck!

I'm not Azhia either. :) I second Jetgirls's Nyx recommendation, and I also have had really good luck with Jane Eyeshadows. They are heavily pigmented and go on super dark/thick...a good cheaper-than-MAC alternative.

I have 3 times as much skin as is required on my eyelids. I have to pull the skin tight just to draw on a smooth eyeliner. How do I get a non muddy look for the eye? Things just look messy when the eye skin is left to move back into place after being tightened for application.

Dramatic makeup on an Asian eye. I have very little visible crease (like 1/3 in the outer corner). There is a huge gap between my brows and my crease, so it looks like someone punched me if I wear a lot of dark eye makeup in that area. I don't feel like it's visible enough if I wear it only slightly past my natural crase.

Is there any way to prevent makeup in quads from flaking into other colors? For instance, I have a quad of four eyeshadows. One is very light and some of the dark colors flake into that one.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Taj

How the heck do you tell what your skin "undertone" is? I've tried all the suggestions I've come across, and I *still* don't know.

What's the best lipstick color to offset/minimize yellowish teeth?

ETA: My perennial question is "how do you minimize large pores and acne scars without financial ruination"--but I understand there's only so much time in your day. :-)

HI Taj, For minimizing a yellow tinge on the teeth, try lip colors with blue undertones. That said, if you have yellow undertones in your skin (like I do) you have to choose carefully. You can do it, but maybe not the bluest of reds.

I also have pores that I wish were smaller and I use a silicone based primer. Right now my primer of choice is "Never let them see you shine" by Philosophy. Then I dab just a tiny bit of med/full coverage liquid foundation by perscriptives on the outer corners of my nose where the pores are more noticeable, THEN dust ove with Everyday Minerals all over the whole face. My key is to layer really light layers of all these products or else they get cakey. I usually keep blotter papers or a clean kabuki brush to absorb shine during the day. I've had a bit of success with micorderm, but it's a bit pricey. It's not a mircacle treatment, but it helped minimize my pores and some scarring that I had.,r:;

Why do my soft pencils always break when I sharpen them? What a waste of money!

Anala-I hate that!! mine do too. then I end up sharpening and sharpening until before you know it, the new pencil is a nub. Maybe the blade is dull on your sharpener? Seems mine work best when new (the sharpener that its)

Ahzia, I don't know if this is the question you had in mind, but I have been scouring the world over for the perscriptives lipstick in "cafe" They don't even make it anymore but I loved the shad and can't find a match anywhere. They are either too orange or too brown. Cafe had the best of three worlds: Pink/brown/coral in a satin sheer finish. I have found something sort of close (Smashbox's Photo finish lipstick in "exquisite" but it's deeply pigmented and too blue underneath) Any suggestions? I must have about 27 lipsticks (I am not kidding)

Originally Posted by jetgirl

I have 2 colors of lipstick that I am looking for, does that count? I got my makeup done on 2 separate occasions for photo shoots and loved the colors, but of course didn't ask how they made them. So I'd love to find duplicates.

Originally Posted by HOOKEDNOVICE

Ahzia, I don't know if this is the question you had in mind, but I have been scouring the world over for the perscriptives lipstick in "cafe" They don't even make it anymore but I loved the shad and can't find a match anywhere. They are either too orange or too brown. Cafe had the best of three worlds: Pink/brown/coral in a satin sheer finish. I have found something sort of close (Smashbox's Photo finish lipstick in "exquisite" but it's deeply pigmented and too blue underneath) Any suggestions? I must have about 27 lipsticks (I am not kidding)

Don't be afraid to mix your own lipstick. Take a butter knife or paté knife (this is what I use in my kit), and use it as a surface on which to mix lipsticks to find the perfect shade. MAC Pro stores carry LIP MIX, which I looove for this purpose. You can adjust the amount of blue or red or yellow that's needed to get the right shade. You can also purchase a Kryolan cream color wheel in primary colors to mix and match shades.

It truly sucks when you cannot find your shade anymore to wear straight from the tube.

Originally Posted by jetgirl

Oh wait, I have another question. I've tried doing some looks with a dark lid, but they all make me look like I have sunken eyes. I continue to do dramatic stuff only with light lids. Here is a video of the aubergine/emerald look I love as an example.
I did however do the last violet eyes at the end with great success.

I would try dark lids with slightly lighter shades so that they don't look so dark.

OR

Darken the lid, and add a very light or shimmer color just above and along the upper lash line to pop it and break up the darkness.

See if this works.

You can also do your color wash and intensify on the lid with the same tone of color, just a deeper hue.

Originally Posted by resullivan

OK, so what might work as face/body makeup to make skin look more the shape of white/gray in black and white movies ..g.:

My first thought was to try some of the lighter colors of Ben Nye pancake, but other suggestions would really rock.

Do you want it to literally look white/gray? If so, Kryolan makes really nice pancake colors (probably same as Ben Nye) that emulsify beautifully with just water.

Originally Posted by LauraLevana

Hi Azhia,
I'm actually working my way through your DVD right now!

Some questions about eyes:
How do you pick a lining/shading technique to work well with your eye and face shape?

Yay!
This is covered in your PDF booklet for sure. :0)
Generally it will depend on how far apart your eyes are, if they're set deeply or superficially, how wide of a space between your temples, and what shape are the lids. The idea is to balance, not change the shape of.
For example if your eyes are narrow set, you will want to concentrate darker shades on the outer parts of the eye.
If your eyes are wide set, then on the inner parts of the eye.
Can you give me more information about your particular eye/face shape?

Originally Posted by LauraLevana

If you have fine lines, are there certain techniques that will help and ones to definitely avoid?

Mineral makeup as a foundation is okay around fine lines and helps refract light to smooth them out. Shimmer eye shadow for color--not so good. Use a silicone primer product to fill lines prior to applying product or color. Use very little product on lines and use a brush or sponge to blend well.

Originally Posted by LauraLevana

Also, I have fairly long eyelashes, so should I go lighter on the lining?
Thanks!

I don't think that length of lashes (you're so lucky!!) would affect eye lining but I'd have to see it in person to see what you mean. Is there a specific effect that you're trying to create or avoid?

Originally Posted by rachelw

I know that lots of bellydancers are mad about MAC for eye make up, especially. None of my local stores carry MAC because we're not a big enough market yet (at least that's what they told me). Do you know of any good non-MAC eye products, especially an eyeliner and high-pigment eye shadows, that are available at drugstores/department stores.

My local department stores tend to carry the following:
Estee Lauder
Lancome
Clinique
Shisheido (I think)
Prescriptives

That's not an exhaustive list, but it's what I can come up with off the top of my head. The drug stores basically carry your general drug store brands--Loreal, Revlon, Covergirl, Maybelline, etc.

There are also several salons that carry Aveda, which I use for every day but I'm uncertain how their eye color would be for performance.

I would go with the recommendations give thus far. They work quite well (HIP pigments, NYX, etc.) for a limited budget. Also, if you have access to it, GOSH cosmetics are great. Also, the theater makeup brands, such as Ben Nye, Kryolan, and Mehron are not as expensive and are more effective than drugstore brands. Their packaging is not as flashy but you're not paying for it either. Effectiveness & pigmentation: A++++.

Aveda is not good for performance, in my opinion. I love their skin & hair care, but their makeup is too weak and will not be effective for stage/photography.

Originally Posted by caasious

can it be a non-dance related question?
My mom wears clown make-up regularly - she's a therapy clown, and it has to be "set" with baby powder and taken off with baby oil.

The problem, she's allergic to scents and perfumes, and she gets very congested and needs to take antihistamines with every show. What else could she use to set and remove the make up with??
They've already told her corn starch will clog the make-up so it doesn't stay on.

fyi... the brand is Mehron Performance Makeup (made in NY)

So she uses Mehron and it is making her congested? Or is it the baby powder and baby oil that is making her congested?

Invisible powders (made by the theater brands) tend to not have any fragrance. Olive oil will remove makeup just as effectively, contain no petrolatum and will nourish the skin at the same time.

Originally Posted by Taj

How the heck do you tell what your skin "undertone" is? I've tried all the suggestions I've come across, and I *still* don't know.

What's the best lipstick color to offset/minimize yellowish teeth?

ETA: My perennial question is "how do you minimize large pores and acne scars without financial ruination"--but I understand there's only so much time in your day. :-)

Based only on your photos in the profile, it appears to me that you have a red undertone, but they are small photos. What methods have you tried thus far?

HOOKEDNOVICE's recommendations are what I would recommend. Whenever I wear blue-toned lipstick, I would get comments on how white my teeth look. Dark lipstick in general will generally offset dark teeth, too. When desperate, I also use Crest white strips, but not on a regular basis. I used them religiously for 14 days prior to shooting the DVD 'coz, you know CLOSE UPS and all. ..l;,

In addition to HOOKEDNOVICE's suggestions, when you apply mineral or foundation products, apply and blend in all directions (clockwise, counterclockwise, diagonal up, diagonal down, and stipple) so that products completely cover all areas of the pores, which are circular. If you are applying only in one direction, you are filling only certain parts of the hole. Also, after applying foundation, buff (in clockwise & counterclockwise circles) into the skin with a flat top kabuki/mineral brush.

Originally Posted by anala

I have 3 times as much skin as is required on my eyelids. I have to pull the skin tight just to draw on a smooth eyeliner. How do I get a non muddy look for the eye? Things just look messy when the eye skin is left to move back into place after being tightened for application.

Try spidery (as opposed to thick) false lashes and apply NYX shadow at the root as a liner to define and open the eye. Then do a color wash in lighter shades on the lid for drama, mama.

Originally Posted by indigostars

Dramatic makeup on an Asian eye. I have very little visible crease (like 1/3 in the outer corner). There is a huge gap between my brows and my crease, so it looks like someone punched me if I wear a lot of dark eye makeup in that area. I don't feel like it's visible enough if I wear it only slightly past my natural crase.

Try creating a crease with shadow and use lighter shades on the lid to prevent a "shiner" look, similar to what I suggested to jetgirl. False lashes, spidery, rather than thick, also.

Originally Posted by indigostars

Is there any way to prevent makeup in quads from flaking into other colors? For instance, I have a quad of four eyeshadows. One is very light and some of the dark colors flake into that one.

Try laying something across the quad that protects the colors while not in use, like a folded tissue or flat cotton pads. That's what I don't like about quads (although I'm a huge palette fan b/c I like having choices), they'll often mix dark with light shades, or matte with shimmery shades. If you have a choice (like with MAC palettes), always store like with like (mattes with mattes, shimmers with shimmers, dark with dark, light with light).

Originally Posted by anala

Why do my soft pencils always break when I sharpen them? What a waste of money!

Try warming them in your hand before sharpening. I don't know if this will work, my intuition tells me that they break b/c they're cold and hard. This happens a lot to me, too.

I am actually considering going back to waxy, harder cheap pencils, like from Wet 'n' Wild because they do not smudge, nor did they break when sharpened. As a goth chick back in the day, I could create a thick, precise line that did not move or smudge until I took it off.

Hey Azhia, I saw someone once use some "press and seal" saran wrapish stuff across their palette to keep it from mixing.