Thread: HOW do I sew a "slinky" ( modern) belly dance skirt?

I've ruined quite a bit of fabric trying to figure it out...but I can't seem to manage to get the sleek look of alot of the spandexy-lycra skirts I see all over the place. All i can find is patterns for tribal style and circle skirts. does any one know where i could find a pattern or have any tips on how to go about this?

Might help if you post some pictures of the type of skirt you have in mind. It might be cut on the bias, but if I saw the skirt you're trying to replicate I could give you better instructions.

Quick question - do you already know how to sew with ultra-stretchy fabrics such as swimsuit fabric, lycra, etc? That's the first trick, knowing how to sew on stretchy fabric. It's different from non-stretch things like chiffon, georgette, etc.

Quarter circle for the back, cut on the bias, and if you are big or tall enough for that not to go round you (like I am), cut another wedge-shaped piece to go hipbone to hipbone and create seams and/or splits over each thigh. In lycra or jersey.

here are two looks i'm trying to work with
#1

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYUzXJ1GVyM]YouTube - Bellydancing by Orit Maftsir - Tabla Solo[/ame]

( i can't tell if it's flared at the bottom or all one straight piece. i tried using a flowy mettalic knit but when i tried to flare the bottom part below the knees the flared bit just flopped on the sides. it looked pretty simple...but its not draping the right way for me...maybe it's the fabric i'm using?)

#2
Blue Moon and Star Bella

or

Green Tribaret Bella

or possibly something like this..

( i think the print is hideous but the cut is great! love the "runching?" on the top half)

Camouflage Lycra bella

this one looks fairly simelar, but in velvet

Custome Made in Egypt Bellydance Belly Dance Costume - eBay (item 260349234173 end time Jan-25-09 22:28:46 PST)

of course I don't expect anyone to answer all of these but whatever jems of wisdom you'd be willing to share would be wonderful!

Originally Posted by *Shira*

Quick question - do you already know how to sew with ultra-stretchy fabrics such as swimsuit fabric, lycra, etc? That's the first trick, knowing how to sew on stretchy fabric. It's different from non-stretch things like chiffon, georgette, etc.

I think so...but i could be wrong. is there something specific i should be weary of? my friend is helping me with the sewing and she seems to know what she's doing, btu i'm the one who has to do the pattern designing in which i have little to no experience

Originally Posted by zumarrad

Quarter circle for the back, cut on the bias, and if you are big or tall enough for that not to go round you (like I am), cut another wedge-shaped piece to go hipbone to hipbone and create seams and/or splits over each thigh. In lycra or jersey.

that sounds like it might work! i'll try it and post if i have any luck! the wedge shape...does the narrow end come to a complete point or is it just much narrower than the flared edge?

Originally Posted by 0Adara0

I think so...but i could be wrong. is there something specific i should be weary of? my friend is helping me with the sewing and she seems to know what she's doing, btu i'm the one who has to do the pattern designing in which i have little to no experience

The key to sewing these fabrics is usually to use a special presser foot to prevent the fabric from stretching as it passes under the presser foot. Sometimes these have rollers, sometimes they're called "even feed". It's also usually recommended to use a ball point needle.

thanks!

Your skirt seems to be a straight skirt with lots of embelishments. I've made them simply without a pattern. Here is what I do.

1) take your measurements for the length of the skirt, your waist and your hips.
2) lay out the fabric and fold in half
3) cut the fabric at the leangth plus 2 inches.
4) cut the width of the fabric at 1/2 the hip measurement.
5) the split of the skirt will be at the open side. Measure how deap you want your split and pin the fabric to mark it.
6) sew from the top of the split to the top of the skirt.
7) roll and stitch to finish the edges of the split and the hem. I usually use a straight stitch for this.
8) measure a length of elastic around your waist to a point where it is comfortable.
9) stretch and pin the elastic around the top of the skirt. Stretch the elastic as needed so that the elastic fits all the way around.
10) zigzag stitch the top of the elastic to the top of the skirt.
11) sew the ends of the elastic together.
12) fold the elastic to the wrong side of the skirt.
13) hand stitch the elastic to the seam on the side.
14) sew, stamp or glue appliques, sequins, etc to the skirt at will.

I've had some pretty good results with this. Believe me making the base skirt is the easy part adding the embelishments is the most time consuming part.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by 0Adara0

that sounds like it might work! i'll try it and post if i have any luck! the wedge shape...does the narrow end come to a complete point or is it just much narrower than the flared edge?

Nope, it's curved at the top like the quarter circle only not as big. The one I tried out was a quarter circle and the wedge shape was effectively half the quarter if that makes sense. I should have cut it longer though, so I could make the back hip edge big enough to wrap round the whole back of me to the front hip bones. Still working that out. I am a very rough sewer.

Have you tried using a commercial pattern for a straight, formal skirt? You might have to make some adjustments for stretch fabric, because I think they typically call for wovens, but it would give you an idea of the shapes of the pieces.

Adara,
My troupemate Shahla, who is on this forum frequently, makes gorgeous trumpet & mermaid style skirts with metalskin and other holographic lycra fabrics. I believe she uses a modified pattern for a trumpet skirt from a regular pattern maker like McCall's or Simplicity.
I'll send her a message and ask her to post here with her tips & recommendations!

Your skirt is basically just a straight skirt with a modesty panel. You don't really need a pattern. If your fabric is stretchy, all the better. Wrap the material around you so it's tight around the bum and sew. Make sure you add for seam allowances and hem.

The modesty panel goes at the slit. The easiest way I've made them is with a quarter circle cut from chiffon. I gather it a bit at the top and hand stitch it in. Its easier if you finish your edges before you stitch it in place, but do the hem last so that its the same length as the skirt.

When I make straight skirts out of lycra, I cut the fabric to be about the same as my low hip measurement (because it will stretch and I want it to be figure hugging) but this depends on the stretch. Some lycra / stretch velvet will stretch a LOT while others don't give much. You can add 2" to be safe and then you can cut it off.

I actually sew a casing to insert the elastic, this way if I need to change the upper hip measurement I just need to change or shorten the elastic. If I sew it inside the skirt it would be harder to change.

I also do have the slit where the sides meet, and sew the top together, depending on how big I want the slit to be.
For me tthe key is to sew the sides on the top together with a gather, this will create the figure hugging effect: it will be snug around your hips and butt and then ease out under your knees.

A skirt like this usually takes me no more 20 minutes to make, not counting the decorations.
I often don't decorate them, just hem them, and add the belt on top. This is an easy way to add variety to your current costumes (bras/belts)