Thread: Trying to make a side-lacing belt; questions

First, it's my first belt. I used to sew a lot, and quite well, but not for a number of years.

Second, I want a side-laced one, because my size is somewhat ... flexible ... (I have cussed myself up about this, because most instructions are about a one-piece belt and I'm flying in the dark here.)

My question is mainly this: Do I need to dart it if it's size is adjustable at the sides? I've been wrestling with this awhile, but upon finding that I'm supposed to have it done by April 25th, well, now I'm feeling the pressure.

I think the embellishment will be fun and that the crucial part of making pattern and having the confidence that it's right (Mr. Subliminal says Perfectionist!/cough) and cutting out is the hard part: Getting it right *choke* ..c::

Aaaaahhh .... I have to leave it alone for awhile. I'm looking forward to the embellishment part, but this is making me batty. TIA

Ask Rosehips (Tempest).
She would definitely know, as she makes and sells these belts.

She hasn't logged in since October, though ...

I haven't? The little thingie in the corner is saying I last visted at 3:10am on 2/22/09.

Though I'm pretty sure I was in bed at 3:10am...

Though not much before that cause I got sucked into a movie ;) And then got up at 8:30am, so I'm on low-brain power...so with that in mind, I have a fabulous and easy-to-use pattern that'll help you out! Tempest - Darkly Dramatic Dance

I think that if you're only planing to put lacing in the 2 sides, then do make any darts needed for hitting on the back of the hips.

if you're using a pattern that has more than 4 (or more) sets of lacings, then you should be able to get a good fit with the ties only.

Originally Posted by rosehips

I haven't? The little thingie in the corner is saying I last visted at 3:10am on 2/22/09.

Though I'm pretty sure I was in bed at 3:10am...

Though not much before that cause I got sucked into a movie ;) And then got up at 8:30am, so I'm on low-brain power...so with that in mind, I have a fabulous and easy-to-use pattern that'll help you out! Tempest - Darkly Dramatic Dance

My apologies! I looked at your profile and I must have misread something! Eeep, sorry!

I'll certainly check out the link asap! and thank you!

Originally Posted by caasious

I think that if you're only planing to put lacing in the 2 sides, then do make any darts needed for hitting on the back of the hips.

if you're using a pattern that has more than 4 (or more) sets of lacings, then you should be able to get a good fit with the ties only.

Thanks, Tempest and Caasious and all for your valuable replies. I should add that there's no pattern, there's me making a pattern with a front and a back. Tempest, do you have two-piece patterns, or only 3 and more?

And yeah, I thought I would probably need to put darts in. Dang it's hard when there's just me doing it! Poo. Well, no cure for that ...

Caasious, what do you mean when you say "make any darts needed for hitting on the back of the hips?"

I think Caasious means you will only need to do darts on the back half.
This really depends on how deep the belt is, if you want it 'butt-cupping' and thick, you will need darts, if it is thinner you might get away without.
Either way it would be best to curve the pattern slightly at the back (lower in the centre) so that it sits right.
And cut the side edges on a slight angle so it accommodates the shape of your hips.

My belt is only 4 inches top to bottom and 5 at the front center where there's to be an upside-down V. (I plan to make the rest of the planned middle-focus to take place in embellishments, but I'm planning to do that to take focus off my hippyness.)

Butt-cupping, I don't know what you mean. Is that how the back of the belt should cup the natural curve of the butt? My butt is too big for 4 inches to affect.

Thick? I am going 2 interfaces and 2 twill layers (one directly underlying the embellishment). That doesn't seem thick. Is it? Why should a belt be thick?

Ok if I understand correctly you are making a belt with a front piece and a separate back piece, and connecting the two with laces on each side??

My suggestion would be to make the two pieces, then add a separate flap or modesty panel to the back piece at the right and left side to the inside of the belt.

In other words, sew an extra flap on the inside of the back piece, and attach them to the inside front with hooks & eyes in whatever way fits your body. If you're curvy, the hooks & eyes will sit in a diagonal vertical line to give more room lower, if you're straighter, like me, the line will be more up & down.

Then just add decorative lacing at each side. If you loose weight, snug up the laces, or even move the hooks & eyes closer in, reverse if you gain.

I think there's a difference between deep and thick.

To me, deepness is how wide the belt is vertically. A really DEEP belt will need some shaping, or it will gap at the top or bottom or both. This is where darts come in.

Thickness is in the number of layers and, well.... thickness of each layer. A really thin belt will stretch. A thicker, reenforced belt will hold shape better.

Originally Posted by nitewindz

Ok if I understand correctly you are making a belt with a front piece and a separate back piece, and connecting the two with laces on each side??

Yup.

Originally Posted by nitewindz

My suggestion would be to make the two pieces, then add a separate flap or modesty panel to the back piece at the right and left side to the inside of the belt.

In other words, sew an extra flap on the inside of the back piece, and attach them to the inside front with hooks & eyes in whatever way fits your body. If you're curvy, the hooks & eyes will sit in a diagonal vertical line to give more room lower, if you're straighter, like me, the line will be more up & down.

Then just add decorative lacing at each side. If you loose weight, snug up the laces, or even move the hooks & eyes closer in, reverse if you gain.

Oooooh, I didn't think of what would be under the laces! (in this first case, it will be a skirt, but what about the future?) Nerp! Thank you! *mind begins racing*

So I'll have to make an extension that is attached just to the inside of the vertical row of grommets or eyelets or whatever they're called, so the panel can be folded out, underneath the laces. OR have the panel be separate and held on with hooks and eyes on both sides?

Have I got you?

I'm going to post something here that I posted on another lacing belt thread - don't use the grommets you can get at Joanns or Michaels that work with a tool that looks like a hole punch, they are more like eyelets and can pop open or pull trough the fabric. Eyelets or grommet tape are great for lighter fabric belts. For a thick or heavy belt they will not hold up, you need stronger grommets like the kind that can be used for corsets. I bought grommets and the punch/setting set at the link listed below - all I had to have was a rubber mallet (hardware store) and a good hard surface to set the grommets. Practice a few times on mock ups of the belt to make practice punching the holes and setting the grommets through lots of fabric.


http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMShome.html

Sorry I meant to say deep, not thick.

Since I'm probably better at drawing than explaining, here is a sketch of the shape I would use:


I'd make a pattern first from heavy paper to see if you need to add darts.

When I make belts I use a layer of buckram, or the heavy iron-on material they use for pelmets is great too (some stores call this buckram anyway) a layer of felt on the outside, and thin cotton lining. Then I cover the felt side with my finish fabric, and line the inside.
Make sure you line before grommet-ing though!

I second what Kazoogrrl says about buying heavy duty grommets.

Originally Posted by kazoogrrl

I'm going to post something here that I posted on another lacing belt thread - don't use the grommets you can get at Joanns or Michaels that work with a tool that looks like a hole punch, they are more like eyelets and can pop open or pull trough the fabric.

Eyelets or grommet tape are great for lighter fabric belts. For a thick or heavy belt they will not hold up, you need stronger grommets like the kind that can be used for corsets.

I bought grommets and the punch/setting set at the link listed below - all I had to have was a rubber mallet (hardware store) and a good hard surface to set the grommets. Practice a few times on mock ups of the belt to make practice punching the holes and setting the grommets through lots of fabric. http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMShome.html

B-b-b-b-but how do I know if the belt I'm planning is light or heavy? I plan to use 2 layers of heavier interfacing and 2 layers of twill. That's all. Not much bulk, to my way of thinking.

Do I need these heavier grommets? (Sorry every time I use the word, I think of Wallace & Grommett "crackin toast!")

Also did you just buy the grommets from the website and get the rubber mallet separately? Or did you get the grommets and the punch/setting set (the $21.00 thing) there plus getting the mallet separately? (Confused)

BTW, firefly, the drawing is great. It is what I thought was meant. My hips, though, are extensive, and the 4-inch belt won't be cupping anything. At least I know what folks are talking about though, in other threads now!

It is usual to have the back be a lot bigger? I could see why it would be good on a bigger bum ...

I'm getting in deeper and deeper here, and I've only been taking lessons six weeks (eep)

You'll know what you want depending not only on the thickness, but how much decoration you'll be adding. A lightweight belt (maybe one decorative layer and a thicker back layer) with light trims and a few accents won't need heavy duty grommets, and even grommet tape will work for you (such as those made from Tempest's pattern, which calls for 2 fabric layers only). But if you're adding coins, lots of beading, using interfacing, etc. you'll want sturdier grommets. Also, if you want to really lace it tight so it doesn't move on you, heavier grommets will hold up under the strain of the lacing.

I think for the corset I made I used 00 grommets, so I bought this set to go with them.
Grommet Setting Kit - Size 00: Delicious LLC

And I picked up a mallet at the hardware store for about $7 or you can use a small hammer.

I practiced setting grommets by sewing two scraps of my material together, and then I would measure how far apart down the fabric I wanted the grommets to sit and then I practiced putting the fabric in the grommets. It helped me figure out how much force I needed to use to punch the holes and to get the grommets set in all the way. If I was doing this all the time I'd get the actually setting machine, but for a project or two the little kit was great.

Here's a basic video, the kit I linked too also has a little punch so you can punch the hole in the fabric (with the little piece of wood included underneath so you don't damage your work surface) and then set the grommet:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5aiJLGRQHs]YouTube - Make It Mine Magazine - Hammer Setting Grommets[/ame]

Ooohhh, Kazoogirl, you rock!

I was thinking a vid would be great!

No problem! My boyfriend showed me how to set grommets but I realized it could be a bit tricky if you don't know how the set works.


I swear, now I want to grommet everything in sight.

Originally Posted by kazoogrrl

I swear, now I want to grommet everything in sight.

..l;,..l;, I know exactly what you mean! It's quite addictive.

I ran out of things to grommet and now I'm bedazzling.

Originally Posted by firefly5

When I make belts I use a layer of buckram, or the heavy iron-on material they use for pelmets is great too (some stores call this buckram anyway) a layer of felt on the outside, and thin cotton lining. Then I cover the felt side with my finish fabric, and line the inside.
Make sure you line before grommet-ing though!

Upon re-reading this, have another question. Why do you include a layer of felt in the belt?

My imagination says it would make attaching embellishments easier.

Yes, I add felt for that reason, although if I'm attaching larger/heavier bits (coins, large crystals etc) I try to sew through all the layers.
It also gives the top layer a smoother and more substantial appearance without adding too much weight.

I'm hoping to show a progression of first to newest pattern pieces I'm making, with firefly's help.

Here's the curveless belt panels:



and a freehand drawing on used printer paper (remember when we called it typing paper?) taped together. Also based on Firefly's drawing.



After I center-folded it, as per firefly's suggestion, one end needed some correction:


A closer pic:


... and I put a 2nd peak on the front panel, and made sure they were the same.


The only thing I have to keep in mind is that these are lengths I have to shorten. I forgot to shorten the panels for space for lacing between panels. (remember, remember!). So they'll be 22 and 22 inches long instead of 26 and 26, the actual measurements of my personal booty.

Woot!

Oh, and I ordered my grommets and grommet tool!!! *waggles her knuckles* -- Thanks Kazoogirl! Because the shipping was hefty, I ordered grommets I didn't need in case I plan to do this for a silver-toned belt for next time.

Originally Posted by rosehips

I haven't? The little thingie in the corner is saying I last visted at 3:10am on 2/22/09.

Though I'm pretty sure I was in bed at 3:10am...

Though not much before that cause I got sucked into a movie ;) And then got up at 8:30am, so I'm on low-brain power...so with that in mind, I have a fabulous and easy-to-use pattern that'll help you out! Tempest - Darkly Dramatic Dance

It's your evil alter-ego, prowling the intarwebz while you sleep. Astral-Googling.

It's looking good to me!

Got felt Thursday, grommet setter came today! Woot!

I feel a grommet session coming on, lol

Good luck with the grommets! First, the belt. What can you grommet next? Corsets! Arm bands and bracelets! Bags! Flags! Everything!

Just remember - measure twice!

I was thinking of making a mockup of some sacrificial fabric first, to check my measurements. (just punch holes for the lacing part)

Then I want to take and layer up the fabrics of my belt and do a couple test grommets.

Then I will really need to start work on the actual belt! ,r:;

Yeah, I shouldn't have waited for the grommets to arrive to do that first part. But there is life besides BD ... or can't I say that on this forum? lol

FWIW, I'm posting pics of my progress on What are you working on March: http://www.bhuz.com/forum/fitness-be...-2009-a-5.html