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  1. #1
    Advanced BHUZzer AngelaDiCaprio's Avatar
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    Question on Sewing

    So I've decided to enter a competition, to save me money since I cannot afford a new costume I need to design an new skirt, gauntlets and head piece.

    My question is, should I use some sort of backing on the skirt and gauntlets when hand stitching the beading and sequin designs. I am going to use a two way stretch velvet material. This will be the first time I've ever taken on this kind of project, so any and all suggestions/tips will be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Established BHUZzer invokethegoddess's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    I don't(usually) use any backing when adding a design to the stretch velvet...just make sure to not pull your stitching too tight...allow for a little bit of stretch and use a very heavy duty thread. Really heavy or thick beadwork(like a thick band around the waist/hip area) will diminish the amount of stretch the fabric has so remember to take that into account when making the skirt. Hope that helps some!

  3. #3
    Advanced BHUZzer AngelaDiCaprio's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Oh every bit of advice helps.

    Thanks!!!!

  4. #4
    Established BHUZzer txchic's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    In order to maintain stretch and avoid endless bead loss if threads break I tie-off threads every 2-4 sets of stitches. I also use polyester core threads for all beadwork.

  5. #5
    Advanced BHUZzer Rosette's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    When I did beading around the hip area on a stretch skirt, I worked with the skirt around my thighs as I sat in a chair (so essentially I was working in my lap), and kept my legs apart so the fabric was stretching. I expect the more sophisticated (and easier on the back) way would be to have some kind of frame you could stretch it on. But in any event, if the fabric is not stretched while the beading is done but then has to be stretched to put on the costume, the threads will break and the beading will fall apart. If you used a backing material it would also have to stretch and be stretched while beading, or else it will limit the stretchability of the costume.
    Rosette

  6. #6
    Master BHUZzer kharis_UK's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by AngelaDiCaprio View Post
    So I've decided to enter a competition, to save me money since I cannot afford a new costume I need to design an new skirt, gauntlets and head piece.

    My question is, should I use some sort of backing on the skirt and gauntlets when hand stitching the beading and sequin designs. I am going to use a two way stretch velvet material. This will be the first time I've ever taken on this kind of project, so any and all suggestions/tips will be greatly appreciated.

    Ive been making my own costumes for years, and this would depend on the thickness of the fabric. Generally, no backing required, though some reinforcement would be good around the waistband/hipband area. Make sure you use tailor chalk to sketch out your design.
    See my website for designs I've made. I love doing beadwork. There are, of course, special techniques for beading that are required on stretch fabric. This means that you do not have to pre-stretch the fabric as you sew.

  7. #7
    Master BHUZzer kharis_UK's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by txchic View Post
    In order to maintain stretch and avoid endless bead loss if threads break I tie-off threads every 2-4 sets of stitches. I also use polyester core threads for all beadwork.
    Good point. This is specially relevant to hems, which suffer the most breakage. I only ever use really strong thread.

  8. #8
    Advanced BHUZzer AngelaDiCaprio's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Okay, off to check website. Feeling very nervouse about all this. I feel totally inept.....

    Kharis, dear you don't have your website posted in your profile.

  9. #9
    Master BHUZzer kharis_UK's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by AngelaDiCaprio View Post
    Okay, off to check website. Feeling very nervouse about all this. I feel totally inept.....

    Kharis, dear you don't have your website posted in your profile.
    Belly Dance UK.html

  10. #10
    Advanced BHUZzer AngelaDiCaprio's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Kharis,

    Did you make that green costume? Its beautiful.
    I bow down to your greatness

  11. #11
    A journey of ten thousand miles begins with a single post. Zumarrad's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Beading on stretch is harrrrd and if you have never done it before you could have trouble.

    Personally I would suggest instead of trying to bead the skirt, which is fraught with Danger, make a non-stretch belt covered in the same fabric and bead onto that. Ditto the bra. Another alternative is, if you can find a nice stretch scarf made from the same or similar to your fabric, and use that as a base. I bought a nice black velvet stretch hipscarf with cutouts and green beadwork, and my plan (eventually) is to inset it into a dress and cover a bra to match.

  12. #12
    Advanced BHUZzer AngelaDiCaprio's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by zumarrad View Post
    Beading on stretch is harrrrd and if you have never done it before you could have trouble.

    Personally I would suggest instead of trying to bead the skirt, which is fraught with Danger, make a non-stretch belt covered in the same fabric and bead onto that. Ditto the bra. Another alternative is, if you can find a nice stretch scarf made from the same or similar to your fabric, and use that as a base. I bought a nice black velvet stretch hipscarf with cutouts and green beadwork, and my plan (eventually) is to inset it into a dress and cover a bra to match.
    I'm trying to avoid making a belt. I already have a belt but I don't want to use it. I'm matching the beading and design to the Bra and belt set I already have, the reason I'm not using the belt is cause I want a slimmer effect with just the skirt.

  13. #13
    I could get used to this! amanda_raqs's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    depending on the kind of design you have planned, you could always make appliques and sew them on to the skirt.
    Also, if you make the skirt figure hugging but not really stretched too much and put a zipper in, you don't have to worry too much about stressing the beadwork.

  14. #14
    Master BHUZzer tigerb's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by amanda_raqs View Post
    depending on the kind of design you have planned, you could always make appliques and sew them on to the skirt.
    Also, if you make the skirt figure hugging but not really stretched too much and put a zipper in, you don't have to worry too much about stressing the beadwork.
    I was going to suggest appliques, too, having just spent a lot of time beading stretch velvet. You could do the bulk of the work on the appliques (backed however you would like), attach them, and do some "connecting" beadwork in between them.

  15. #15
    Master BHUZzer kharis_UK's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by AngelaDiCaprio View Post
    Kharis,

    Did you make that green costume? Its beautiful.
    I bow down to your greatness
    Yes. Like I said, beading on stretch fabric is easy, there is a technique to the stitching.

  16. #16
    I could get used to this! amanda_raqs's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by kharis_UK View Post
    Yes. Like I said, beading on stretch fabric is easy, there is a technique to the stitching.
    What is the technique?

  17. #17
    Master BHUZzer kharis_UK's Avatar
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    Re: Question on Sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by amanda_raqs View Post
    What is the technique?
    This is hard to explain without actually showing. But basically, it's making sure the stitches run vertically and/or zig zag where the fabric stretches. Make sure the stitches are at a sloping angle so that they 'give' when the fabric stretches, bit like a concertina. Stitching in a straight line is big no no. Appliques don't really work as they cannot stretch, and end up puckering the fabric.

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