Thread: Putting cut-outs in a dress?

Has anyone added your own cut-outs to a dress, either open or mesh?

I'm working with velvet by hand and thinking about adding a cold shoulder and/or side rib holes. Can you walk me through the process? Is it as easy as slice & sew or will the shaping suffer?

Well, first you get some very good sharp sewing scissors, .w.: then you take a Xanax and wait 20 minutes for it to take effect, ..g.: and then . . .
Okay, seriously, I have thought about doing this a number of times but have not tried it yet. Very interested! Will watch this thread.
Rosette

Originally Posted by nasila

Has anyone added your own cut-outs to a dress, either open or mesh?

I'm working with velvet by hand and thinking about adding a cold shoulder and/or side rib holes. Can you walk me through the process? Is it as easy as slice & sew or will the shaping suffer?

Stretch velvet or regular? If it is regular velvet, I would think you can cut it flat and it will hold its shape fairly well as long as you stay stitch to prevent unraveling at the edges. Stretch velvet requires more planning, because the shape of the hole when it is lying flat may not be the same as the shape it is on the body.

I would suggest trying the garment on and marking the outline you want (chalk, tailor's pencil, wash-out sewing marker), then take it off and sew a row of tiny stitches on the side of the marking line that will be left on the garment after cutting. (This is the stay stitching). Then carefully cut along the marking line, being careful not to cut the stay stitching. If you are leaving a hole, you might want to consider reinforcing the edge with fabric tape or additional stay stitching so that it doesn't pull out of shape over time. If you are lining with mesh, you may be able to skip the latter. You always have the option of covering the stay stitching or the seam where the mesh meets the rest of the garment with some kind of embellishment.

Keep in mind that if you are sewing on a stretch fabric, you may not be able to sew normally with regular thread because the stitching won't have any give to it--depending on your design, you may want to have some flexibility in the seams. Other times this is not an issue, and you want the integrity of a firm seam. At any rate, make sure you have a seam that can withstand the wear and tear of taking the garment on and off. You don't want to be doing a costume change backstage and hear a frightening rip.

Originally Posted by Rosette

then you take a Xanax and wait 20 minutes for it to take effect, ..g.: and then . . .

LMAO!! I actually do have a few Xanax from that last hospital visit... ;)

Thanks Tourbeau for all the details! I wouldn't have even thought about 'stay stitching' but that really makes sense. It is stretch velvet, so is there some kind of stretchy thread I can use or do I need to use a special stitch to keep some elasticity?

Make sure that you give enough allowance with the stay stitch so that you can clip the curve after cutting out the opening and then be able to turn under to finish the edge. If you cut too close to the stay stiching you won't be able to clip without cutting through the stiches. And you have to clip to get smooth opening.

oh goodness, you mean this Souzan?

Free Article How To Clip Curve, How To Grade Seam from Fiber Images

So there's some give. Got it. I'm glad I asked you guys first. :)

Anything else? I got a $10 dress from eBay to practice on before I cut into my L Rose. .w.:

Originally Posted by nasila

It is stretch velvet, so is there some kind of stretchy thread I can use or do I need to use a special stitch to keep some elasticity?

Both woolly nylon and elastic thread have give to them, but they are miserable to sew with. In theory, it is possible to hand sew with either of them--if you want to go that route, I would suggest using the woolly nylon over the elastic thread, but you will need a needle threader and a lot of patience to get through the experience. Personally, I use woolly nylon to darn socks because in addition to being somewhat stretchy, it makes a softer knot than regular thread. Keep your thread length fairly short as you're working--the longer it is, the more likely it will degenerate into a fuzzy tangle as you sew.

Most sewing machines have one or more "stretch sewing" stitches on them, but I'm not sure you could easily hand sew the same patterns. Some people sew a couple of forward stitches and then a backstitch, or knot every few stitches and cut the thread and start again. There are two reasons for this--to keep the whole seam from failing if the thread breaks, and to balance the tension and looseness of the seam so that you have give without shifting and puckering.

Originally Posted by nasila

oh goodness, you mean this Souzan?

Free Article How To Clip Curve, How To Grade Seam from Fiber Images

So there's some give. Got it. I'm glad I asked you guys first. :)

Anything else? I got a $10 dress from eBay to practice on before I cut into my L Rose. .w.:

Yep, thats it. It makes for a smoother curve. If you don't do that you have the the fold line a larger circle than the cut edge and it doesn't look good at all.

LRose--I have a dress that I got with the cold shoulder. The hole is partially in the bodice portion and partially the top of the sleeve. In other words it cuts through the shoulder seam (front to back of dress) and the seam sewing shoulder of sleeve to the dress. I think these are serged seams, but you might want to make sure that you reinforce those seams after cutting to prevent seams for opening.

Also with stretch fabric you don't want to make the hole too big cause it will stretch a little when you wear the dress.

I ordered my L Rose with the cold shoulder, but I want to start with that for my tester. I think I will just do the whole cut-out right below the shoulder seam, for starters anyways.

thanks guys! :)