Thread: Making an L. Rose-type Beledi Dress?

I'm sure this has been talked about before. I want to make an r-rose beledi dress with a deep U. I was going to buy one, but it won't be here in time for the show. I didn't like anything premade that I saw on other Web sites.

Here is what I want:


Do you think it would be possible for me to make something like this? My sewing skills are adequate. I would love to not have to wait to buy a pattern online and then have to cut it all out and such.

Would it be possible to make it myself without a pattern? I have made clothes without patterns before. Thoughts and advice please!

The Lrose dresses are pretty simple. There are no darts and body of the dress is pretty much straight up and down with side seams curved in at the waist line. The neckline is simply turned under without a facing. Remember that when sewing with stretch fabrics you want 2 way stretch with the stretch going around your body and not up and down. And you will probably need to cut a little snugger than what you would with nonstretch fabrics.
heres a pattern Ive used, Design Viewer The nice thing about this pattern is that is already designed for stretch fabric. Just add sleeves from any pattern you already have.

It certainly isn't impossible, but I'd suggest making a test garment to work out the bugs before you hack into the fabric you want to use for the costume. If you expect to use the stretch of the fabric to make your dress form fitting, you might want to consider using a serger and wooly nylon thread so that your seams have some give to them. I also agree with Souzan as far as starting from a commercial pattern. Unless you're an experienced seamstress, it's pretty tough to guess how to cut the seams you want, and some fabrics aren't very forgiving when it comes to ripping out and re-sewing.

Wow what a great idea Souzan!

Please let us know how it goes! I'd love to try it myself!

If you don't have a serger, you can use a stretch overlock stitch or a small zig zag stitch. Most newer machines have the overlock stitch or an overlock foot. BUT, I would suggest that you baste first with a straight stitch using a contrasting color to make it easier to take out. Put the dress on inside out and have someone pin fit it to your body so you match your own curves.

Once you have the right fit, do the final stitching.

The nice thing about lycra is that it doesn't unravel. So just do like the Egyptians do and leave the inside of the seams as unfinished as you would like.

Souzan

Originally Posted by Souzan

The nice thing about lycra is that it doesn't unravel. So just do like the Egyptians do and leave the inside of the seams as unfinished as you would like.
Souzan

That is nice to know, I didn't know that.

I don't have a serger, so I have to zig-zag. It usually works out just fine.

Originally Posted by Souzan

If you don't have a serger, you can use a stretch overlock stitch or a small zig zag stitch. Most newer machines have the overlock stitch or an overlock foot. BUT, I would suggest that you baste first with a straight stitch using a contrasting color to make it easier to take out. Put the dress on inside out and have someone pin fit it to your body so you match your own curves.

Once you have the right fit, do the final stitching.

The nice thing about lycra is that it doesn't unravel. So just do like the Egyptians do and leave the inside of the seams as unfinished as you would like.

Souzan

I'm pretty sure I have an overlock stitch on my machine. It looks like a fake serge stitch, right? I have an overlock foot too...I think. I bought a bunch of new feet for my machine.

I have a huge roll of white craft paper. I was thinking about using that to make the pattern. Could I lay down on it and have someone trace my body? Sounds so silly.

Originally Posted by andalee-oriental

I'm pretty sure I have an overlock stitch on my machine. It looks like a fake serge stitch, right? I have an overlock foot too...I think. I bought a bunch of new feet for my machine.

I have a huge roll of white craft paper. I was thinking about using that to make the pattern. Could I lay down on it and have someone trace my body? Sounds so silly.

For something that is this important, I think I would start with a pattern. You can do the tracing thing, but it doesn't take into account drape and ease. Your body is three dimensional and the flat outline of your body is 2 dimensional. What you could do if you don't want to buy a pattern would be to take your body measurment at the widest part and divide in half. Then cut two pieces of fabric in a long straigh column that width. Sew the side seams straight with basting stitch leaving room at the top for your arms. Turn it inside out and have some fit it to your body pinning down the sides from below your underarms to where you want the slit to be. Slide the thing off. Lay it flat and use another dress pattern to cut the arm holes, shoulder, and neck. Be sure to leave enough for seam allowance and to turn the neckline under. DON"T cut the neckline below the braline yet! Do that only after you have finished everything else so that you have the right line and shape. Add sleeves (from another pattern) and then sew up the side seams using a basting stitch cause you got to fit again. Keep pin and basting until you get what you want. If you keep fitting tighter than the basting, just leave the old basting in to save time. You are going to cut it off. When you have the final fit use your overlock stitch or narrow zig zag to do final seams, cut excess seam allowance off and remove basting. If you do the basting in a contrasting thread it is easier to take out.

After you have finished all the edges the last thing would be to put it on inside out again, and have someone trace the below bra neckline with tailor's chalk on the inside. Lay it flat folded in half and cut the neckline outside the line. Clip the curves, turn and stitch.

Souzan

Definitely take a scrap of fabric and experiment to find which stitch gives you the best result on your sewing machine. My personal experience is that the zigzag stitch usually works better than the overlock stitch, unless you have a pretty expensive machine. I've used at least half a dozen different machines over the years (all fairly common, low-end-but-brand-name machines) and never once had the overlock feature do anything but jam the fabric into the feed dogs. Before I got my serger, I used to use a zigzag stitch with the machine threaded with regular thread on the top and wooly nylon in the the bobbin. In theory, you can also put wooly nylon on the top for extra stretch, but for me, it tended to get tangled up on the needle as it sewed.

When testing stitches, you can also determine whether running is a problem with your fabric. Heavy-weight, high-quality knits are usually stable and don't run, but other knits sometimes do. Better to find out if running is an issue before you get halfway through sewing your garment.

Per Souzan's excellent suggestions for making your own pattern, I again agree with her about modifying a commercial pattern instead of starting from scratch. Going from 2-D to 3-D and accounting for the right amount of stretch in the fabric is a nontrivial task if you don't have a lot of experience with pattern making and stretch sewing.

If you don't want to buy a pattern, perhaps you can find a shirt from comparable fabric with a good fit that you can disassemble to use as a base pattern. If you cut a shirt apart, remember that you will have to allow a little extra for seam allowances. Commercially sewn garments are made on very tight seam allowances that give you no room for altering to enlarge, and they aren't very forgiving if you drift outward while sewing your seams.

Thanks y'all. I have this pattern which I will use for the guide for the top and the sleeves. Love this one, by the way.

Here's what it looks like on:


I probably have a skirt somewhere that I could use a base. I'd just need to figure out how long the torso needs to be. I could use the paper for that.

You could start with a commercial "caftan" style pattern and easily make alterations from there...
McCallPattern - M4002 - MISSES' & MEN'S TUNICS, CAFTANS, PANTS, LINED HAT & HEAD-WRAP - 4002

or for a fitted option for non-stretch fabric...
Simplicity Patterns for Sewing Projects

This basic style of dress is a fairly simple design and easy to make. I can't tell from the picture, but if there's a gusset under the arm, that would be the trickiest part.

I agree it's best to start with a pattern. I strongly suggest combining the top that you've chosen with another for the bottom. Anything with that long, straight skirt look should work - caftan, evening dress or skirt, nightgown, etc. Tape the pieces from the top front, back onto blank paper, position the bottom front & back so that you have a long front & a long back, cut out the new pattern piece.

I don't have a serger. I've always had good luck sewing stretch fabrics with a medium width, medium length zigzag stitch, and trimming the allowance back to the stitching.

Also, for this project, I would follow the cutting lines for the top as it appears on the pattern. After assembling the dress, I'd try it on then mark where I want the front opening to be, and cut down. I'd use caution and make one deep cut, then several smaller trims to get it right because it's easy to trim away but impossible to put back.

Originally Posted by andalee-oriental

Thanks y'all. I have this pattern which I will use for the guide for the top and the sleeves. Love this one, by the way.

I probably have a skirt somewhere that I could use a base. I'd just need to figure out how long the torso needs to be. I could use the paper for that.

I have this one, but never made it up. I've always been a bit afraid of the way the front gaps on the models on the cover of the pattern. If it doesn't look good when they sew it, what are the chances I'll be able to do a better job on it? It probably won't be an issue for you, since you are planning to split way down the front under the bra, though.

As far as the bottom of your dress, you can extend the top pattern straight down to floor length, taking into account the widest part of your hips. After you get a basic shape, you can bring in the side seams, or if you prefer, you can run some princess darts to take up the excess fabric.

Originally Posted by caasious

You could start with a commercial "caftan" style pattern and easily make alterations from there...
McCallPattern - M4002 - MISSES' & MEN'S TUNICS, CAFTANS, PANTS, LINED HAT & HEAD-WRAP - 4002

I've used this one a couple of times, and it is a real sack! The torso is very boxy and wide, and the drop sleeves drop a little farther down the shoulder than is comfortable for dancing. If you want a good, basic caftan pattern for woven fabrics, I'd suggest hitting the back of the pattern books, and getting a Passion Play pattern instead.

Simplicity 4213 Design Viewer
Simplicity 4795 Design Viewer

They are very easy to sew, and easy to modify to get different looks for sleeves and necklines.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

I have this one, but never made it up. I've always been a bit afraid of the way the front gaps on the models on the cover of the pattern. If it doesn't look good when they sew it, what are the chances I'll be able to do a better job on it? It probably won't be an issue for you, since you are planning to split way down the front under the bra, though.

As far as the bottom of your dress, you can extend the top pattern straight down to floor length, taking into account the widest part of your hips. After you get a basic shape, you can bring in the side seams, or if you prefer, you can run some princess darts to take up the excess fabric.



I've used this one a couple of times, and it is a real sack! The torso is very boxy and wide, and the drop sleeves drop a little farther down the shoulder than is comfortable for dancing. If you want a good, basic caftan pattern for woven fabrics, I'd suggest hitting the back of the pattern books, and getting a Passion Play pattern instead.

Simplicity 4213 Design Viewer
Simplicity 4795 Design Viewer

They are very easy to sew, and easy to modify to get different looks for sleeves and necklines.

It gaps a little for me. I have a large chest, so it's not too bad. I think it has to do with out you gather the center bit. You can see in the white one that it looks a little bunchy at the top. I made a blue one out of the same fabric and it doesn't do that. Go figure!

Were I doing this (and I eventually intend too), I would buy a commercial pattern for a simple knit dress. There are usually a few in the special occasion section of the pattern books, or, if you cant find one there, there ARE some for knit tunics (which are popular right now), just extend length and it would be good to go.

I would still do a mock up in a crappy fabric to test for fit so you can tweak it, but I think a dress like this would be really simple to make.

Originally Posted by andalee-oriental

It gaps a little for me. I have a large chest, so it's not too bad. I think it has to do with out you gather the center bit. You can see in the white one that it looks a little bunchy at the top. I made a blue one out of the same fabric and it doesn't do that. Go figure!

That's the problem with garment sewing--you only have to be a little off, and something won't hang properly and/or fit comfortably. That's also why I would never attempt to freestyle a set-in shoulder seam myself!

I have that same pattern but haven't done anything with it yet

Where did you get that pattern?

thanks,

Originally Posted by carpediem

Where did you get that pattern?

thanks,

It's Simplicity 3832. Simplicity 2941 is also a dance pattern, but it's more of a vintage AmCab look. Anywhere that sells Simplicity patterns should stock it. Check the sales circulars for your favorite fabric and hobby stores. Places like Hancock's and Hobby Lobby often put patterns on sale (particularly on holiday weekends), and you should be able to pick it up at a considerably reduced price that way.

Cool! Thanks!