Thread: A clue please: Sewing/hemming light chiffon...

I'm trying to sew and hem some lightweight poly chiffon (want to make some of those 3/4 drapey sleeve things held onto the upper arms with elastic). Its similar to pantyhose weight, maybe slightly heavier.

How do I work with this stuff? I've tried overcasting the edge with "some" success - but it keeps getting sucked into the feed dogs. Not pretty.

Do I realistically need to have a serger to work with this kind of fabric? As a side question, I'm thinking of buying a serger anyway - any brand recommendations or dis-recommendations?

I obviously don't have a clue, but need one... ..l;,

I wish you luck:) I wouldn't be able to sew that type of fabric either. I hope someone has some suggestions for you.

I've actually had better luck just zigzagging the edge than with serging- I can never get the serger tension right on that stuff! if you can find a thin, lightweight ribbon to zig zag onto the edge, it works even better. but yeah, this is the whole reason I am willing to buy ready made chiffon circle skirts- hemming that much yardage would drive me nuts! Will do it for sleeves, tho.

I love my serger and I use it a lot, especially on hemming chiffon. I love wooly nylon thread for hems.
I have a White and love it. I bought it in 1996 and have never had a problem with it.

Try a long basting stitch (to be removed later) close to the edge.

Then try hemming.

Here's a link (I know it's for hemming, but I couldn't find one for casing): Hem Chiffon or Other Delicate Fabrics

The basting thread, will help you hold, and guide the material through the machine. Don't use too long a basting stitch on chiffon, or it will start to gather, you need a stitch length that's just long enough for you to remove later. When removing stitches, I was taught to always remove the bobbin thread (it's supposed to be easier), not sure on that.

When I make an elastic casing in chiffon, I sew a basting stitch 1/4" away from the selvage edge, I use this basting stitch to help me fold the edge under when I'm making the casing. Then another basting stitch on my 'fold line' for the casing about 3/8" for a 1/4" inch elastic, about 5/8" if I'm using 1/2" elastic.

It also helps to press your casing before stitching.

I recommend to make a button hole style opening, so it's easier to replace the elastic in the future.
:-)

Some people advocate putting tissue paper under lighter fabric to prevent it from getting caught in the machine, and then tearing it away after you're done sewing. I've never had much luck with that method myself, but maybe it would work with your combination of sewing machine and fabric.

I have a serger, but I usually just keep it set for 4-thread overlock, which makes a solid seam but is too wide and clunky looking for a pretty exposed edge treatment. On anything but bottom-of-the-line sergers, you can adjust the settings to do 3-thread rolled hems, and depending on how you set up the machine, you can get different effects. It's a stylistic choice if you want a ruffled ("lettuce") edge or a flat seam.

If you want a quick and dirty way to get a hem on lightweight fabric, you could try moving your seam a little farther inward from the edge (so that the fabric is fully under the presser foot) and running a satin stitch using a short, narrow zigzag. The main trick to this method is setting up the machine to make stitches that look smooth and are close enough together to prevent unraveling, but not so close that they make the edge too bulky and stiff. After you've sewn the fabric, you can trim the excess fabric away with a scissors, being careful to get right up to the stitching line without nicking the thread. Unless you are inspecting it up close, it will look like a rolled hem.

I use a shell hemmer foot on my machine and it works amazingly for chiffon. (or a narrow hem foot if its on the straight edge)

Make sure you use a new needle for very lightweight woven fabrics.

Originally Posted by ssipes

Make sure you use a new needle for very lightweight woven fabrics.

Yes!!! & it needs to be the appropriate size (check your manual) & sometimes you will need a lighter weight thread too (not always- depends on fabric)

I agree, I need and would love a Serger! They don't sell feet for my machine, unless there is a universal brand I don't know about. I have a Brother.

Thanks for the link too!

For now I iron the seam, roll it, iron it again, then zig-zag. I made some blouses out of this fabric and had some luck.

I'm pretty sure for chiffon, it's a needle size 9 for woven fabrics (not knit, or universal).

Originally Posted by bdaddiction

I agree, I need and would love a Serger! They don't sell feet for my machine, unless there is a universal brand I don't know about. I have a Brother.

Thanks for the link too!

For now I iron the seam, roll it, iron it again, then zig-zag. I made some blouses out of this fabric and had some luck.

What type of foot is your machine?
Long, short, or slant?
Most feet designed for a certain shank style will fit on other machines.
I have three short shank machines, all my short shank feet, and snap feet wil work with them.
My long shank accessories from my Kenmore (God, I miss that machine!!! Died in a flood), will fit my Necchi machine.

The only 'foot' I came across that might not work on some machines, was a 'roller' foot.

Bhuzzers, please; If your sewing machine dies, KEEP THE FEET!!!!

Machines used to come with all, or most feet, now they don't. They charge 'big time' for accessories.

'White' used to make sewing machines for Montgomery Ward, and other dept. stores with store logo, not 'White', same machine, different market.
A lot of vaccuum cleaners are also made by the same company, but martketed under different host store names.

Wow - such a wealth of information!

The idea of un-doing basting stitches on chiffon terrifies me - should it?

I have one of those narrow rolled hem feet - have never gotten it to work particularly well, nor have been able to find anyone else who it worked for so I could get a demonstration. I *was* able to get a wider rolled hem foot to work reasonably well on my mother in law's machine (Kenmore by White), but that was heavier fabric by far and a much wider hem.

My main machine, a very nice White from 1976, uses the "snap on" feet, but can also use low-shank. My "other" machine - a cute little Bell from the 1950s, is also a low-shank.

Just 'cause I'm proud of them:



Even if I barely know what to do with them!

I am loving the table set up! I wish I had room for one. For now I use a fold up table.

Don't worry about the "unbasting"!!!

Your narrow foot will work beautifully for you...if you use a basting stitch.

Trust me! Practice it!
With the narrow hem foot, you might still have problems...you might need to slow down, get a better angle on the fabric when you feed it...but the basting stitch (wasted thread in a way...I know), will make a HUGE difference.
Really, it does take practice.

If I'm working on a really expensive material, I will practice with a simular cheap fabric, or the scraps if there is enough. So when I say practice, I really mean it.

You will see a difference once you use a basting stitch.

And yes, pulling stitches out is a pain in the tush!
Best way is to prick out about 3 inches, and pull that thread (gently) until it breaks, then start over.

I have never tried this myself, but thought I'd pass it along. Once when I was buying some chiffon at Joann's, the gentleman behind the counter shared a secret for dealing with chiffon hems. He said that using a woodburning pen works great on chiffon. You use the tip of the hot pen like a pair of scissors and run it along your cutting line. That way when the fabric is "cut", it melts the edges so no hem is required and it won't fray. I've been meaning to try it for a long time and have never gotten the equipment to do it.

I always use a 2mm roll-hem foot when sewing on chiffon. This foot actually creates a little roll of fabric in the hem while you sew, so that you don't have to fold the fabric over yourself. It takes a bit of practice to use, but once you master it you can sew a hem very quickly and with minimum hassle. While you can use either a straight or zigzag stitch for the hem, I usually use a zigzag with 3.0 width and 2.2 length. My roll hem foot is from sears.com Kenmore 2 mm. Hemmer Foot for Vertical Sewing Machines, but I'm sure others work fine.

serge the edges. That's the best way =)

If using a sewing machine, I used to first zigzag stitch then manually turn under and sew it..then I bought a rolled hem foot...an EXCELLENT investment!

Now I use my serger and it is much faster and easier than using a sewing machine....whenever possible, I use the serger instead of the sewing machine....one of my best purchases ever!

Recommend: BabyLock w/ self-threading upper and lower loopers..it will save you a boat load of time and worth the extra money....my first serger did not have self-threading loopers and it was a 45minute ordeal to thread.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by zorba

I'm trying to sew and hem some lightweight poly chiffon (want to make some of those 3/4 drapey sleeve things held onto the upper arms with elastic). Its similar to pantyhose weight, maybe slightly heavier.

How do I work with this stuff? I've tried overcasting the edge with "some" success - but it keeps getting sucked into the feed dogs. Not pretty.

Do I realistically need to have a serger to work with this kind of fabric? As a side question, I'm thinking of buying a serger anyway - any brand recommendations or dis-recommendations?

I obviously don't have a clue, but need one... ..l;,

Originally Posted by shahla

I have never tried this myself, but thought I'd pass it along. Once when I was buying some chiffon at Joann's, the gentleman behind the counter shared a secret for dealing with chiffon hems. He said that using a woodburning pen works great on chiffon. You use the tip of the hot pen like a pair of scissors and run it along your cutting line. That way when the fabric is "cut", it melts the edges so no hem is required and it won't fray. I've been meaning to try it for a long time and have never gotten the equipment to do it.

I think that only works for some forms of chiffon... maybe polyester only? Otherwise the melting just sets things on fire. .w.:

Originally Posted by tigerb

I think that only works for some forms of chiffon... maybe polyester only? Otherwise the melting just sets things on fire. .w.:

burning the edges works on nylon & some polyester- basically, a natural fiber (protein, like silk/wool, or cellulose, like cotton & rayon) will burn- this is why a burn test is sometimes used to determine if a fabric really is silk or if it's synthetic. synthetic fibers will melt instead, but they melt in different ways, so best to test in an inconspicuous place first. Most chiffon is too loose a weave for this method to be effective. Even with it does work, it does make the edges stiffer- kind of like treating it with fray check or a permanent resist. which, of course, is another option ..g.:

oh, & if you do burn, I recommend finding the cutters specifically made for this- you do need a specific temperature so you *don't* set your project on fire.

Originally Posted by gothique

What type of foot is your machine?
Long, short, or slant?
Most feet designed for a certain shank style will fit on other machines.
I have three short shank machines, all my short shank feet, and snap feet wil work with them.

Thanks, I will have to look it up. I know I have before and seen a foot on EBAY that I could buy. Haven't had the chance to go to Joann's and look yet.

I don't recommended this unless you are out of your mind, like i was. I hand rolled and hemmed a 3 yard veil. (this was before I had my serger) and was determined I didn't need a sewing machine.
Hindsight serger or sewing machine, don't hand hem chiffon, its torture!

Alrana

Originally Posted by gothique

Try a long basting stitch (to be removed later) close to the edge.

Then try hemming.

Here's a link (I know it's for hemming, but I couldn't find one for casing): Hem Chiffon or Other Delicate Fabrics

The basting thread, will help you hold, and guide the material through the machine. Don't use too long a basting stitch on chiffon, or it will start to gather, you need a stitch length that's just long enough for you to remove later. When removing stitches, I was taught to always remove the bobbin thread (it's supposed to be easier), not sure on that.

When I make an elastic casing in chiffon, I sew a basting stitch 1/4" away from the selvage edge, I use this basting stitch to help me fold the edge under when I'm making the casing. Then another basting stitch on my 'fold line' for the casing about 3/8" for a 1/4" inch elastic, about 5/8" if I'm using 1/2" elastic.

It also helps to press your casing before stitching.

I recommend to make a button hole style opening, so it's easier to replace the elastic in the future.
:-)

I kept getting interrupted (BIG TIME) when I was trying to explain last night...I forgot to mention, I baste and hem, all on a sewing machine.
The link was to give an 'idea' about the basting.
Sergers are nice to have, but they're not needed.

I recommend getting an old sewing book, about mid 1940's - 1970's.
IMO they seem to go over much more detail and technique, sewing by hand or machine.

Originally Posted by gothique

I kept getting interrupted (BIG TIME) when I was trying to explain last night...I forgot to mention, I baste and hem, all on a sewing machine.
The link was to give an 'idea' about the basting.
Sergers are nice to have, but they're not needed.

I recommend getting an old sewing book, about mid 1940's - 1970's.
IMO they seem to go over much more detail and technique, sewing by hand or machine.

I *love* the old vogue sewing books- if you can find them! The school my husband used to teach at used to have the whole series & I miss them. Don't even know when they were published, but they were awesome!

Originally Posted by Serqet

Now I use my serger and it is much faster and easier than using a sewing machine....whenever possible, I use the serger instead of the sewing machine....one of my best purchases ever!

Recommend: BabyLock w/ self-threading upper and lower loopers..it will save you a boat load of time and worth the extra money....my first serger did not have self-threading loopers and it was a 45minute ordeal to thread.

I bought the Pfaff for $900 and wish I had spent $1300 on the self threading BabyLock. Both are great, but threading is NOT fun. Maybe your mother in law would like to share one with you? LOL, they are great for making baby clothes, too!

There are two ways to go about this, I think. A wider hem, with tissue underneath. (iron the fold first) or a narrow rolled hem.

If you want to do it with a regular sewing machine, the tissue tear away (if it is a light color) has worked well for me in the past, there is also a product by Solvy used for the same purpose, and melts away in water. To be truthful, I generally use printer paper or notebook paper, because I don't have a stash of tissue paper.

I would consider an investment in a rolled hem foot and digging around the internet for instructions to use it. I was always scared of the rolled hem foot, before having used it, it looked so hard. BUT once I got one and started using it, I love it! I use a straight stitch and sew slowly. The trick is to get the fabric fed into the foot correctly, and keep that same amount of fabric feeding at all times, else the "roll" will come undone and it will just be folded, not double folded (if that makes any sense!) Again, if you're having trouble with the fabric, try putting paper under it and feed very gently and carefully.

Well, I'm a guy - and in typical guy fashion, I ran out and bought a new power tool - a used Pfaff 4 thread serger from Craigslist. We'll see what this does for the problem. "When the going gets tough, the tough reach for power tools!"

You're going to be happy with the serger! I don't know that I would even attempt a rolled chiffon hem on a regular maching, but I know it can be done. Anyway, I have a hard time not getting any wave in my hem due to the bias, so I pull slightly on the fabric (front & back) to stretch it a little while it sews. I don't pull so hard that I get a lettuce edge, but I do get a nice wave without having to sew in fishing line. Oh darn - now you'll just have to play and see what you like best.