Thread: Cutting Against the Grain--Advice Needed

Hi all.

I just know I'm going to be able to find some great suggestions here....

It all started at the fabric shop last night. I went in just to pick up some fasteners and wouldn't you know it? I came out with nine yards of various fabrics! Anyway, one large cut that I got is a beautiful black tulle-type with gold and sparkles on it. Almost in a tiger-stripe pattern....

The problem is (and I knew this when I got it) the pattern runs horizontally. Being of the curvy type, I've NEVER worn horizontal stripes.

So here's my question: how would it work to cut this fabric across the grain? So the pattern runs vertically? There's a bit of stretch on the fabric that would run around the body if cut with the grain. So if I cut it against the grain the stretch would run up and down. Would this cause the dress to "grow" in length? Or be uncomfortable with movement due to lack of horizontal stretch?

Does any of this make sense???

Many thanks for any ideas!

--Shannon

What kind of fabric is it? Knit or weave? If it's a knit, how many directions does it stretch, 2 or 4?

If you can how about diagonally?

It will affect the hang of the fabric.

For example, I made two pair of harem pants out of knit fabric.

I cut one pair the direction with the grain, this pair flared out nicely, the fabric seem pulled to the floor.

The pair I cut against the grain, hung a lot longer, and didn't flare out at the ankle as nice.
If I had to make the against the grain again, I'd cut the pants with wider legs, and be prepared to cut a lot off the bottom.
I wouldn't cut the pants out shorter before sewing, because I don't know how bad the fabric will stretch out.

I wish I had photos to show you.

I do think you can make the fabric work.
:-)

Originally Posted by andalee-oriental

What kind of fabric is it? Knit or weave? If it's a knit, how many directions does it stretch, 2 or 4?

It's more like tulle netting with a design woven into it. And it's really two-way stretch with the grain.

Originally Posted by Fotia

If you can how about diagonally?

OOooooh! Bias! That would actually be gorgeous! I wonder if I have enough. I want a dress out of it....

HI all, When cutting on the bias the fabric will lengthen and widen. When you cut a circle skirt or any portion of a circle to add to a skirt you have to let the fabric hang after it is cut and then re cut it because it will expand (get longer where the bias is). when you wear something like a shirt or dress that is cut on the bias it will get wider and shorter.

If you are cutting on the bias you must first line it up on a grid or w/ a pattern that can guide you how and where to cut. after you have cut the piece, depending on what it is to be used for it is always best for fitted garments to sew a basting thread along the seem to be joined about a half inch in to keep the pieces to be joined from stretching while sewing. You can also pin the fabric to a piece of tissue paper along the seams and this will accomplish the same end. I use a 10.00 cutting board that can be found at any sewing store because it has straight grids and bias grids.

Hope that helps
Andrea

If the fabric is two-way stretch, equal stretch both ways, you can use it across the grain no problem. To stabilize and prevent (some) lengthwise stretch, use seam binding or bias tape on the vertical seams.

Personally, I like the idea of using this kind of fabric on the bias. Again, the seams can be stabilized with binding or tape.