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09-27-2009 08:48 PM #1Mega BHUZzer




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!st Belt from scratch - help please
Hi!
I'm making my first belt from scratch and I'm using a pattern from a Dawn Devine Brown book. It's a basic crescent type shape.
I have a layer of buckram, a layer of thick interfacing (almost as thick as felt) and a layer of thin but sturdy fusible interfacing. I added grosgrain ribbon where the belt will hit my upper hip.
Should I add a layer of padding like she suggests in the book? Felt? I have some cotton quilt batting? I don't want it to be too thick so i'd love to hear about what other people do.
The top layer will be velvet and I plan on adding some beading/sequins and some fringe. It's not going to be crazy detailed because it's my first one.
Thank you!
09-27-2009 08:52 PM #2Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please

I'm hoping this shape works well with an hourglass figure...if not it will be good practice for me
09-27-2009 08:59 PM #3Ultimate BHUZzer






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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I'm making a belt too. This will be my first cab cossie that I'm making. (I've made tribal stuff before) Did you sew all your layers together on your sewing machine? If so, do you then sew your top layer by hand to the inside so you don't see a seem? Or do you just cover the seem with decorations? I think you picked any easier style then I did. Good luck. Post pics with your progress.
09-27-2009 09:01 PM #4Just Starting!
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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Dawn is terrific, I love her books. I have not read that book so I am not aware of the purpose of the padding.
Personally I do not like padded belts. I have enough built-in padding I do not need another layer. But I think padded belts make dancers with thin hips appear poofy, the beading can cause dents and ripples.
Please post pictures of your creation. I know Bhuz-zers would like to see your progress.
09-28-2009 03:16 AM #5Master BHUZzer





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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I started with that book, but my preference now is for less padding so the belt is closer to the skin and doesn't appear too far out when over a skirt or two..
09-28-2009 04:42 AM #6Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I agree, I use a layer of thin felt or interfacing to give it some body, but I wouldn't bother with padding as well, especially if you don't want it to be too thick. It already looks fairly substantial, nice job!
By the time you have added covering fabric, decoration and lining it will be a bit thicker anyway.
09-28-2009 09:37 AM #7Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I'm not going to pad it...it's pretty thick now and I don't have narrow hips.

Just in case anyone is interested about the process i'm attempting.
I photocopied the design I wanted from her book. Extended the sides so it would fit my hips. Then I cut the design out of newspaper so I could fit it to my body. I pinned it to my hips and pinched any excess paper using tape to create darts....I hope this prevents gaping in the finished product and gives it a good fit.

Once I was satisfied with the fit I cut them out of a stiff interfacing (non woven, heavyweight all purpose craft type)
I added a layer of fusible interfacing to one side and a layer of buckram to the other. The buckram was sewn on.
Next was the grosgrain ribbon to prevent the top from stretching out over time which was also sewn on.
None of these layers wrap around to the back at all.
09-28-2009 09:42 AM #8Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
We are project twins! Please post on this thread or start a new one what your process is. I would love to see it. I'm only going to wrap the top layer of decorative fabric to the back. I did sew through all the layers about a 1/4" from the outside. You could use Heat & Bond to adhere the layers if you didn't want to sew them.
I will be attaching the top layer of decorative fabric with Elemer's Craft Bond Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive. So i'll spray the belt pieces and then smooth the fabric over them wrapping a 1/2" or so around to the back and hand sewing that down. That is my plan anyway!
09-28-2009 10:04 AM #9Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Only one suggestion.
I'm hippy (waist 26 hips almost 40) and the front area of the belt with the u-shape to match the back, tends to make me look poochy and more hippy.
You may want to look at some other costume designs. I find that the slight v in the front does wonders for breaking up the hip line.
Also I have a booty so I'm a fan of cupped butt belts.
As for padding skip it, if you are pear shaped you have enough padding already, plus whatever you wear under the belt will protect your skin from chaffing.
09-28-2009 11:02 AM #10Master BHUZzer





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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
hmmm, i use a very thick pellon, and cover with the fabric.
09-28-2009 11:42 AM #11Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
This is the belt I bought from Amity. The bra didn't fit and i'm not sure how to fix it. What would you suggest for flattering belt forms? I'm kind of a squishy hourglass post baby.
09-28-2009 11:55 AM #12Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
You kind of look like my body double so here's what works for me.
Straight across thin front belts, worn at mid hip point

The belt you have on in the pic above is creating a beautiful line.
Also this one

But you see this one

Even on teeny tiny Kitty it's drawing attention to her mid section and hips.
I also avoid the big turkish V belts

They have a similar line to the one you're wearing but for some reason seem less attractive, I think it's because the big V tapers into thinner straps again calling attention to the midsection and hips.
I find most of the Hanan Bra and Belt sets to be very flattering to my body type so you may want to have a look-sie at those too.Last edited by _Tanya_; 09-28-2009 at 12:00 PM.
09-28-2009 12:05 PM #13Ultimate BHUZzer






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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Please forgive my ignorance, as I am the ultimate sewing noob - but I've never heard of a padded belt. Why would somebody want to add padding? That doesn't really sound like it would sit right on the hips.
09-28-2009 12:39 PM #14Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please


Tanya - I totally agree...the front isn't flattering...Is the back too small? Do you think having the sides thin out is causing a more unflattering look? I'm going to try for the slight V of the green/blue silver one.....hummmm
09-28-2009 12:45 PM #15Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I had the same question...it seems kinda strange
In her book she says that it "will work to bulk out the belt"..she mentions padding the belt in her other book "Costuming from the Hip". I can understand it if you were trying to create depth by having some areas standing out more with the padding and the "worked" areas sinking in....like trapunto?
09-28-2009 12:47 PM #16Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
How to I prevent MUFFIN TOP....i always seem to have it and i'm assuming it's partially from the proportions of my curvature.
09-28-2009 12:53 PM #17Ultimate BHUZzer






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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
09-28-2009 12:54 PM #18Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Keep the shape, but cut the U part in the front off, make it curve slightly on top and bottom but not dip down like it currently is.
The back is a teeny tiny bit on the small side for my taste, but you can remedy this with fringe (lots of long fringe)
To prevent muffin top loosen the clasp at the top of the belt.
Also if you are wearing a skirt with an elastic too tight you will get muffin top, make sure the belt is sitting above the skirt (1/3 of an inch or so) an that it is tightest on your hips, but not on the top.
ETA: I hope you don't think me too harsh, but the skirt is also too tight around your hips/thighs for this belt. I would let out the selvage an inch or so and maybe put in a slit (which you can cover with a chiffon pannel if your are more modest.) I prefer full skirts with my bra and belt sets, but when I wear a trumpt or straight skirt I make sure it's never on the "snug" side.Last edited by _Tanya_; 09-28-2009 at 12:57 PM.
09-28-2009 01:04 PM #19Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Tanya - Will you come to my house and dress me? The skirt is an L Rose that I had on backwards..i was rushing..it does have a slit just below the knee.....It's the only one I have...I do have some circle skirts in progress.
I think i'm best off making the belt bigger and re-doing the front to the slight V. Now is the time to change it or abandon it for a new one...
I LOVE BHUZ!!!!! Saved from an unflattering DIY project :)
09-28-2009 01:13 PM #20Ultimate BHUZzer






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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I was working on a belt pattern last night and had to keep trimming and trimming and trimming until I no longer looked like a pro wrestler or a person with a long, pointy vajayjay .w.:
Believe me, I feel your pain!
09-28-2009 01:13 PM #21Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I'd love to take a ride up to maine sometimes, but if you want to contact me, send me a PM with your email and we can do pictures of your closet.
Take the slit up a bit, you need some more room in the thigh area, especially if like me you love to bolt across the floor for drama.
I think the current belt could be saved for later (when you loose the post preggy weight) and just make some minor adjustments.
Also if you roll the top of the skirt (I do cause I'm a short little thing) it creates a little bit of padding that helps the belt sit just slightly off your body and prevents squishing.
And cupped butt belts, seriously look into them, they are a godsend for people shaped like us.
It's all trial and error, just like everything else.
09-29-2009 01:40 AM #22Master BHUZzer





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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I'm a big fan of the subtle v on me....for all my slight weight fluctuations!
A few examples:
Ozma's Costumes's Photos - The Emerald city (Oct, 2006-March, 2007) | Facebook
Ozma's Costumes's Photos - My second homemade bedlah (2004-2008) | Facebook
I have a lot of galleries, with a variety of in-progress shots of costume construction. Some of it might help.
09-29-2009 10:42 AM #23Established BHUZzer


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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Hi,
I realize you are halfway through here, but I gotta say I do recommend custom-fitting your own paper pattern with pins first. That's because no one pattern will fit everyone, given the variety of women's hip shapes.
FITTING: An "hourglass" shape will likely need more curve in the pattern at the sides. For a prominent rear, it'll need more curve at the back. These curves can be created by darting the pattern. If you already made the form, it can be adjusted with flat darts. To flat-dart, slit the top where it gaps, overlap those edges, stitch flat and trim the overlap. It won't be visible when covered.
In my book "Cabaret Belt & Bra for Bellydancers" I have complete illustrated directions to make a custom-fitted belt (excuse the plug). You can alter the edge shape: v-shaped, scalloped, wavy, etc. IMO an interesting edge is more flattering to everyone than straight across.

WIDE HIP: Any design interest in the middle - a v-notch or reverse v-notch - keeps the eye from sweeping directly across the width of the hip, and that is flattering.
BELT INTERFACING: I do not "pad" belts, but do recommend a layer of pellon and/or felt over a buckram base, because the edge of the cut buckram is sharp and can eventually damage cover fabric. I recommend a double layer of buckram for firmness and strength. Pellon, even the heavy weight, is not strong enough to support heavy beaded fringe or coins, in my experience.
~Dina Lydia
09-29-2009 11:01 AM #24Established BHUZzer


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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
I am also making a belt and am thinking that the weight of the long beaded fringe needs to be supported better. The craft felt is too soft?
09-29-2009 12:02 PM #25Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Lylagus's original post, in which she is using a layer of buckram, a layer of thick interfacing (almost as thick as felt) and a layer of thin but sturdy fusible interfacing plus grosgram ribbon is very supportive. I add grosgrain to the bottom, too :)
09-29-2009 03:26 PM #26Official BHUZzer

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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Now that I'm really thinking about my future cab set with these ideas...I got most of the supplies and colors ready to go but I've not cut out the belt yet because of my figure. I've been wondering what to do about that. I'm plus size but even though I'm a bodacious size 16 I was not blessed with boobies or hips. The only reason I have a butt at all is because of BD, haha.
What style of belts goes best with thicker-waisted ladies. I'm tellin' ya my hips are 44 and my waist is only like 38, 39..I'm built like a boy. This is why I love big fluffy skirts and ATS costuming..because you can make appropriate tucks and have insta-hips! ..g.:
09-29-2009 05:51 PM #27Advanced BHUZzer



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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
For belts, I've had good results with denim.
I fuse the denim to the back of my covering fabric, usually velvet. Then I fold the extra velvet neatly in and stitch in place, and I sew a ribbon all around. Once I'm done with the decorating, I handsew the backing to the ribbon (with the idea that of the lining ever gets too yucky, I can remove it/wa****/replace it, without too much of a hassle.
09-29-2009 08:27 PM #28Mega BHUZzer




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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Choices...what do you think?

or

Do either of these look good? Flattering? I'm trying to take the suggestions in this thread and I hope i'm somewhat on track.
THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!! I really appreciate it...if it weren't for all of you I would have spent a lot of time on an unflattering belt.
09-29-2009 08:54 PM #29Official BHUZzer

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Re: !st Belt from scratch - help please
Number 2. Thumbs up. Plus I think number two will be more fun to decorate.
09-29-2009 09:22 PM #30Similar Threads
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belt questions
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