Thread: Circle Skirt -- How hard is it?

I want to make a circle skirt. Can't decide if I should take it to my seamstress or just make it myself. How hard is it? I have some basic sewing skills. I'll probably do the sewing by hand, b/c then I can do it while I'm putting children to sleep.
Thanks!
--Natalie.

Very very easy. I used Simplicity 2941 and mine came out perfectly.

Thanks Shirin! That pattern is really easy to find right now. I wasn't sure that it was a full circle skirt. I want to do a 3 panel circle skirt. I've seen lots of web directions (like from Shira and Alexandra/Visionary Dance) that I was planning to use. I've honestly never used a pattern before!

I would use the directions Shira has on her web site. Make sure you don't skip the part about hanging the skirt to let the bias stretch. Then trim and hem. It only takes me a couple of hours to make a circle skirt with a machine. Sewing by hand might take some time.

If you are using a pattern, they will give you hints on picking out fabric. A lot of dancers avoid directional prints (e.g., stripes) since it can get crazy when what used to be sideways is hanging downward next to a design running in a different direction. Another thing to keep in mind is whether your fabric has nap (e.g., velvet) or shine (e.g., satin). Because these textures look different when viewed from different angles, it can create color variations, so you want to make sure you cut these fabrics in the same direction as much as possible. In other words, buy enough yardage so you can cut all of your half circles with the same edge for the waist. Otherwise if you flip from edge to edge as you cut, you can end up with alternating pieces looking like they are slightly different shades of color. Some fabrics are more sensitive to this than others, and the employees at the cutting table can help you determine if this will be a problem for what you've chosen. Generally speaking, I think stable synthetics (not likely to run or unravel) are the easiest to work with. I like stretch satins, crepes, chiffons, medium-weight jerseys, etc. My first teacher swore by tricot for circle skirts. Personally, I'd avoid lightweight costume satin. Between the static, the fraying, and the tendency to snag and mark at the slightest provocation, I've never made anything with it that I didn't curse the whole time I was sewing.

The only other issue is hemming. Woven fabrics can stretch on the bias (diagonal) so what looks normal when you cut it out may sag unevenly from its own weight when it's made up. This is why people recommend you let the skirt hang for a while before putting in the final hem. You may also have to adjust the hem if the pattern is too long or if it was initially too short and you over-lengthened it. If you end up having to trim the bottom, it is helpful to have a friend or a skirt hem marker, because you will drive yourself nuts trying to measure, mark, and wear at the same time. Alternatively, you can try this trick Sewing Tip - marking skirt hem by yourself. Happy sewing!

I am in no real hurry, so I can hang it out. The fabric is not satin or velvet (not sure of fabric type), but it does have a design. It is so repetitive that I don't think that its going to matter if the design matches up. But, it does have a gold shimmer on one side, which I hadn't though about. I need to check that the fabric has the same level of shimmer whether viewed from the top or the bottom!

Thanks again for the suggestions!
--Natalie.

It is not difficult, and I have a really, really nice silk noil skirt I made myself. However, the cutting (esp. if the fabric is slippery and you work on wooden floors - disaster time!) and hanging to relax the bias and then readjusting the length requires a lot of character, and I decided that it is not something I will try again if I can avoid it ;-) But, the sewing itself is not difficult, and if you have the time and patience to sit and hand-sew the whole shebang, that sounds like a doable project.

I don't sew, but I've bought skirts where the elastic at the waist folds, twists, and generally drives me nuts. Do basic pattern instructions talk you through that too? I've kind of been wanting to make things lately, but don't want to spend money on fabric & notions for something that ends up looking and feeling cheap.

Originally Posted by dancerose

I don't sew, but I've bought skirts where the elastic at the waist folds, twists, and generally drives me nuts. Do basic pattern instructions talk you through that too? I've kind of been wanting to make things lately, but don't want to spend money on fabric & notions for something that ends up looking and feeling cheap.

Shira has an article on her web site on how to use Wide Single-fold Bias Tape as a waistband. It works wonders for circle skirts. Especially if the fabric is very delicate, like chiffon. My local JoAnn Fabrics always has a bargain basement section. I would look through it and find some really cheap fabric for your first try. It shouldn't cost you a ton, but can save you alot over time if you learn to sew some basic pieces.

I'm currently making my second circle skirt. This time it is hanging. I've cut out everything and now I just wait.

Like Shahla, I think it is a good idea to buy practice fabric. I about fainted when all of the fabric for my circle skirt cost $60! I could have bought one for that. Sigh.

PS I'll probably be reviving this thread in about one month. ;-)

Here's the link to Shira's circle skirt instructions:

How to Make a Belly Dance Circle Skirt - An Online Costume Pattern

Originally Posted by dancerose

I don't sew, but I've bought skirts where the elastic at the waist folds, twists, and generally drives me nuts. Do basic pattern instructions talk you through that too? I've kind of been wanting to make things lately, but don't want to spend money on fabric & notions for something that ends up looking and feeling cheap.

Usually this is caused by the casing being the wrong size for whatever's inside it, using non-non-roll elastic, etc. If you are comfortable with the size of the elastic and the fit of the waistband, the way to fix it is to do what's sometimes called "stitch in the ditch." You would take a few machine or hand stitches along the height of the casing through all thicknesses (the casing and the elastic) on top of the existing seam lines. For example, if you have side seams, you would sew down the outside of the casings at those points, so that you have places where the elastic is now permanently fixed. If you are still having a lot of twisting, you can pick a couple of inconspicuous spots throughout the gathers and tack in a few more places. (The gathers themselves will conceal your stitching.) You don't want to over tack things, because you will lose all of your elasticity, but as long as you leave give in between your tack points, you should be fine. Just make sure you evenly distribute your fabric along the elastic before you start tacking. (This method also helps with bunching and distribution problems.)

Originally Posted by shahla

My local JoAnn Fabrics always has a bargain basement section. I would look through it and find some really cheap fabric for your first try. It shouldn't cost you a ton, but can save you alot over time if you learn to sew some basic pieces.

Must be a regional thing. The JoAnn near me has the most expensive remnant bolts I've ever seen, although occasionally they do put the whole lot on sale to thin out the racks. At least until they phase it out, I like Wal-Mart for my muck-ups and mock-ups. You can still get fabric for $1.50-2.00 a yard there, but not necessarily what you're looking for, so you have to view scanning their bargain table as sort of a regular hobby.

Our new walmart has removed their fabric section. It now has a big party supply section. The JoAnn near me doesn't have a bargain section either, but it does have 50% off on lots of fabrics right now. That's where I got my fabric for the circle skirt that I hope to make. I made a paper pattern last night. I'm going to mark it out of the fabric today!

I knew that I was cutting it close . . . the fabric is about 6 inches short of the 3 circles. My hubbie suggested that I could better utilize the fabric by cutting everything as 1/4 circles instead of 1/2 circles. Will that change the skirt in a substantial way?

Also, this was the last bit of this fabric that they had on the bolt. I would have to scour other joann's to find more of this fabric.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by water0125

I knew that I was cutting it close . . . the fabric is about 6 inches short of the 3 circles. My hubbie suggested that I could better utilize the fabric by cutting everything as 1/4 circles instead of 1/2 circles. Will that change the skirt in a substantial way?

The only difference between two quarters and a half circle is the extra seam, which should be lost in the fullness of the skirt. Since you are looking for a three-panel design, you'll want to arrange the pieces to give the best effect. If you have two 180⁰ panels and one 160⁰ panel, it might make sense to put the smaller one in the front, especially if you are going for the old-school, big-double-slit look. OTOH, if you can make better use of your fabric by cutting everything as equal, less-than-half circles lengthwise on the grain, it shouldn't be a problem either.

Also, this was the last bit of this fabric that they had on the bolt. I would have to scour other joann's to find more of this fabric.

There's no guarantee you could get an exact match, because different dye lots can vary. Unless you are running extremely short on the third piece, I'd just use what you've already bought. You might also want to re-measure the pattern against yourself. If it runs long on you (allowing for the waist and hem), you might be able to still get three full circles out of your fabric.

Oops, I meant to say (3) 1/2 circles, not 3 circles. Wow, that would be super full, wouldn't it!! I wasn't sure if the fabric would fall differently with the additional seam.

I could probably cut (2) 1/2 circles and (2) 1/4 circles. Put one of the 1/2 circles in front. Sew 1/4 circle, 1/2 circle, 1/4 circle for the back.

What do you think?

Originally Posted by water0125

Oops, I meant to say (3) 1/2 circles, not 3 circles. Wow, that would be super full, wouldn't it!!

In the old days, some dancers made skirts of five or more half circles of chiffon to make up for the thinness of the fabric. I don't think it's very common to go that full anymore, though.

I wasn't sure if the fabric would fall differently with the additional seam.

It shouldn't, if you sew them all the same direction. That's another point--pick a direction (top to bottom, or bottom to top) and sew all of your pieces consistently. On a full skirt, a difference won't be that noticeable, but it's a good sewing habit to get into, in case you decide to sew other garments down the road.

I could probably cut (2) 1/2 circles and (2) 1/4 circles. Put one of the 1/2 circles in front. Sew 1/4 circle, 1/2 circle, 1/4 circle for the back.

What do you think?

Should be fine!

Thanks for the waistband hints. That helps a lot. Now to scour the end bolts for my first go at it.

I do costumes for a troupe. I came up with a fan-fold cutting technique out of sheer self-preservation. It works great, and is a lifesaver for thin slippery fabrics that don't want to behave. The instructions are at
Ruric-Amari.com: Circle Skirts Without Patterns

Ok, then! I've cut all my panels -- (6) 1/4 panels -- and sewn them up. Four panels sewn together for the back and two panels for the front. I used a french seam for my seams, b/c I didn't want to worry about the fabric raveling. Took a little more time, but was pretty quick.

I didn't sew all the way to the top, since I haven't cut out the triangles at the top for the waist. I also didn't sew all the way to the bottom, so I don't have to undo sewing when I cut the hem. I have the skirt hanging up in my bathroom right now.

I think I'm going to go ahead and cut the waist out and start sewing the bias tape on. I'm nervous, b/c I'm concerned that I might cut too much and have a skirt that is too short. And, it seems that I should cut it with a curve, so that it will fit nicely around my waist.

Do most people just cut straight across the panels to make the waist or do you cut a circle? And, do you sew the bias tape on with a curve? Any words of wisdom before I start cutting?

Thanks!
--Natalie.

People usually cut a circle at the waist, but if you have a lot of half circles, I'm not sure it would really matter much, since you've already got so much fabric gathering up at the waist already. I think the half circles are mostly to maintain the radial length, so that you don't have the panels drooping longer at the centers, but depending on your fabric and how much it stretches on the bias, you may have to totally re-cut the hem to even it out anyway.

If you are worried about cutting too much off at the waist, you could sew the top edge of the bias tape with a long running stitch and pin the bottom edge in place to see how it hangs before cutting the fabric. You should be able to run a dummy piece of elastic through the casing and try it on at that point, and if it isn't right, any seam markings from your test placement of the top edge should be lost in what will ultimately be gathered up.

Thanks so much for all the feedback on the circle skirt. I wore it tonight! Looked great!

It was not all the way finished. Hemming the bottom of the skirt was a lengthy process!! I put some fray check at the bottom to make sure that it didn't fray. I'll give the whole thing a rest for tonight and finish up those little details in the next few days.

The bias tape at the top worked really great. I like the finish that it gave the skirt at the top. I put some grosgrain ribbon inside and felt that worked really well. I finished the open edges of the skirt with shiny bias tape.

I was worried about the waist, but the amount that I cut was fine. I feel like the centers of the panels did end up longer than the edge of each panel. I cut the waist as a circle. Did I do something wrong?

Also, sewing the skirt by hand was not that bad. The hemming at the bottom of the skirt is time consuming, but otherwise, the work went pretty quickly.

Thanks again for all of the help!!
--Natalie.

Originally Posted by water0125

I was worried about the waist, but the amount that I cut was fine. I feel like the centers of the panels did end up longer than the edge of each panel. I cut the waist as a circle. Did I do something wrong?

Hard to say without seeing it. You might have cut the center of the waist circle too shallow or gone a little off your seam allowance when sewing the waistband on. (If you use a tape measure, are the side seams the same length as a radial line down the center of the panel?) It may also just be the way the fabric stretched during hanging. It's pretty difficult to make a circle skirt without needing to do a little tweaking to the hemline.