Thread: Should I charge more for larger cup sizes? HELP!

Hey, Ladies!

In your opinion, is it in poor taste for costume seamstresses to charge more for larger cup sizes?

The reason I ask is because, for the last few weeks, I have been working on a costume commission for one of my Slave Leia belly dance costumes. The lovely lady who ordered the costume is a 38D. The "standard" pattern that I had created for the costume was a 34B/C, and I figured I could just tweak the pattern a little bit, use a few more sequins here and there, and it would be fine. Boy, was I mistaken! Rather than using rows of 2 sequins each, I had to use rows of 3 to make the same impact, which ended up taking twice as much time to sew as my standard SL bra.

With this in mind....for future costume commissions, do you think it would be wrong to specify in my Etsy listing that larger cup sizes will require an extra charge (such as $50), or is that just totally distasteful?

Any thoughts an opinions would be greatly appreciated, both from costume seamstresses and costume purchasers!

Thanks a bunch, ladies!

No..it is a reality of the cost of manufacture. It takes more time and materials and as a DD cup person I understand this. Think of it as buying carpet for a 1550 sq.ft. home vs. a 2500 sq ft home!

As a "full-figured" gal ( anyone remember Jane Russell ads ), I know that I'll have to pay a bit more. As long as it's not a whole lot more than the regular sizes (i.e. not 30% more for the same costume, maybe like 10% ) that it would be okay.

I, too, am a DD - and I KNOW that it takes more time, more materials and changes in patterning to create for me than for a B/C cup.

I don't like it, but I do accept the fact that I will pay more. And I expect to. So do most of us in the larger cup sizes.

So, make it clear that there's a difference in your pricing and don't worry!

I don't like it, but I understand it may be a necessity.

It is pretty standard to charge a little more for larger cup sizes- as long as it's reasonable (or folks just love your design, I haven't looked yet!) it shouldn't impact sales. What bugs the heck out of me is when I get charged extra for larger cup sizes, and then they make the band size super huge- I give my measurements, but end up with up to 8 inches overlap or just cut off in back because someone with an F cup couldn't really have a 34" rib cage, right? It's not so much getting it wrong that irks me as the fact that I was charged extra for beading the cups & they go & waste time & money beading an extra 16" of straps in the back. I will happily pay extra if I know it is actually paying for an extra expense- not frivolity because someone can't read my measurements. I'm not saying you do this at all, at all! just when I gripe about the extra fees, that's what I'm talking about, not expense for extra labor that was actually necessary!

Is there a way for you to put up pictures showing the difference? I know that it takes more time and supplies to cover larger cups but a visual aid is always helpful. As long as its a reasonable increase (not a $100 charge for 2 extra inches of fringe) I think you should charge more to cover the extra time and materials.

It's kind of a difficult one for those of us with a small band but large cup - I may be a 28E, but in terms of volume, its the same as a 32D/34C/36B, which would come under standard sizes, so the extra materials rationale doesn't really hold in this case...

here's a thought- since it is custom work, can you break down materials fee & hourly fee on the invoice? for other work, not costuming, I have had folks do this- everyone from the car mechanic to the dentist gives an estimate (generally a bit on the high end) and then charges what it actually costs. every once in a while it has gone slightly over & they call to make sure it is still okay, but usually it comes to either what they quoted, and I am occasionally pleasantly surprised when it comes in under the quote. I tell ya, that is one way to really keep me coming back! So if you tell folks a DD or + cup generally costs $50 more for beading supply & time, but it happens to come in for less (because of smaller band size or whatever) there are those of us who will love & adore you...

Originally Posted by Lara L

It is pretty standard to charge a little more for larger cup sizes- as long as it's reasonable (or folks just love your design, I haven't looked yet!) it shouldn't impact sales. What bugs the heck out of me is when I get charged extra for larger cup sizes, and then they make the band size super huge- I give my measurements, but end up with up to 8 inches overlap or just cut off in back because someone with an F cup couldn't really have a 34" rib cage, right? It's not so much getting it wrong that irks me as the fact that I was charged extra for beading the cups & they go & waste time & money beading an extra 16" of straps in the back. I will happily pay extra if I know it is actually paying for an extra expense- not frivolity because someone can't read my measurements. I'm not saying you do this at all, at all! just when I gripe about the extra fees, that's what I'm talking about, not expense for extra labor that was actually necessary!

I was just bitching about this the other day! What is soo hard to grasp about someone having a rather small ribcage paired with DDD breasts?
It DOES exist..l;,

I also expect to pay 5% to 10% extra for a cup in my size range...g.:

Most of us larger folks are used to paying a little more for stuff. It's completely understandable when the item involved requires handwork and expensive swarovski crystals.

Make them pay more. It's not fair they have big boobs anyway. A little vindication for us small cupped women. lol. I'm kidding.

Actually I agree with the other Ladies, it's understandable since it takes more work and time. I understand that I'm much taller than most and it might cost me more to get a costume or pants made.

I once got a discount from the fake tan lady because I am so small and have less 'skin' overall than someone larger. But normally I just have to 'suck it up' and pay a standard price that takes into account all sizes of people.

So if you felt you didn't want to specifically charge more, you could factor it into your standard price ???

Having said all that. I know that I have to pay to get things shortened if I really like something giant size but I will buy petite items that already fit off-the-peg in preference where possible.

I also wanted to add that you must be a very sensitive lady to post worrying that it might be in poor taste and asking for advice. Good on you :-)

Man, you ladies rock!

Thank you all SO much for the thoughtful and informative replies! The whole time I was reading them, I kept thinking, "Goodness! What a gracious and understanding group of ladies!" I sincerely do appreciate your input, and your understanding of how much time, hard work, and love goes into hand beading and sequining!

Thank you so much for giving me an idea of what is fair to ask!

(Oh, and just to give ya'll an idea of what I was talking about, here are some pics of the costume I've been working on:)



This is what the costume looks like (That's me, sportin' it at Dragon Con!)



This is a picture of my standard bra at 34B/C vs. the bra commission that I've been working on at 38D.



This is a close-up pic of the design on the 38D bra. I used rows of three sequins rather than two in order to achieve the same design effect.


Once again, thank you so much, ladies! Now that I've had some experience working with larger cup sizes, if any of ya'll need any costuming help, PLEASE do not hesitate to shoot me a message! I'd be delighted to help in any way that I can :)

Take care, and happy shimmies!

P.S.: To Lara and Meena: YIKES! I'm sorry you ladies have had issues with the rib cage bands! Heck, I'd rather just make them to your measurements and relax my hands for an hour! Between cleaning teeth all day and then hand-sequining all night, any hand resting time I can get is very valuable! That's DEFINITELY worth a discount in my book!

Originally Posted by caralovescostumes

It's kind of a difficult one for those of us with a small band but large cup - I may be a 28E, but in terms of volume, its the same as a 32D/34C/36B, which would come under standard sizes, so the extra materials rationale doesn't really hold in this case...

Yeah, it should not be a steep jump after a certain cup size, but I can see why one would charge a higher price on a plus size costume. Average being 34C with a 40" butt, plus would be something like 40C/38D/36DD/34E/32F and up or bums bigger than 45". Women over that size range know they are a bit bigger and require more fabric and decorations.
Charging more for a 32DD than a 40B is just snide, especially if you do not expect the next person to pay extra with their 47" hips . Then it comes across as a boobytax.
That said, some people charge the same for everyone and I think that is also really nice. When you make one 34F and one 30A, they compensate each other.

Let me begin by saying that my point of view comes from my experience in shopping for regular bras. As a natural 36DDD, I feel the pain of having to pay extra. I didn't choose to have these measurements, and I wouldn't change them, but it doesn't feel fair for me to pay more. I often feel like my selection is more limited due to my size. I don't own a single "sexy" bra because I have trouble finding ones I like, that are my size, at a price I can justify. I know that the internet is a wonderful thing and has allowed me to find more options than before, but if I am going to pay $70 for a bra I am only going to wear a handful of times, I want to try it on and make sure I like the way it looks before I pay that kind of money. This is the mentality I bring to belly dance costume shopping. This is my hobby so it is hard to justify buying most of the costumes I find, but combine my point of view with a limited budget and $50 more for my cup size would be a deal breaker.

NO you should charge LESS because God knows we need some positive discrimination and costumes we can actually fit!

Kidding. I have to pay so much more for bras as a matter of course, and that's not going for the really good bras in my size which would be $100 or more (About $120-$130 in your money at the moment.)

Average being 34C with a 40" butt, plus would be something like 40C/38D/36DD/34E/32F and up or bums bigger than 45". Women over that size range know they are a bit bigger and require more fabric and decorations.

I'm a 36DD or E depending on the bra and I have, at largest, a 42 hip, more usually 40-41. When did I stop being plus sized? It's so confusing!

I can't buy costumes off the rack for two reasons: boobs and leg length (I need about a 39 skirt). Why all tall costumes are made for stick insects I'll never know. But should I be charged extra for my cup and extra for my longer skirt? But perhaps a discount for having an average arse?

At the risk of being flamed, unless a costumer is going to charge [I]less[I] for small cups then it seems unfair to charge more for a larger cup.

In fact, I think the deciding factor for pricing a costume should be how elaborate the design is - not how big or small. I have made many bras and belts and it is the elaborate decoration that drives the price up - not just size alone.

A lot of larger costumers (like Dahlal Internationale) don't charge more for what they call "custom orders" which translates into "plus sizes". For them, the cost of more fabric, more sequins evens out because of smaller sizes.

However, I recognize that this doesn't work for all costume makers! I have had many costumes designed and made for me by an American costumer and she does not charge more for my 38D size and 48" hips - she charges based on fringe and ebellishment design - which is why I bought 4 bra/belt sets from her, besides her designs for me are one of a kind originals.

Originally Posted by Nisima

At the risk of being flamed, unless a costumer is going to charge [I]less[I] for small cups then it seems unfair to charge more for a larger cup.

In fact, I think the deciding factor for pricing a costume should be how elaborate the design is - not how big or small. I have made many bras and belts and it is the elaborate decoration that drives the price up - not just size alone.

A lot of larger costumers (like Dahlal Internationale) don't charge more for what they call "custom orders" which translates into "plus sizes". For them, the cost of more fabric, more sequins evens out because of smaller sizes.

However, I recognize that this doesn't work for all costume makers! I have had many costumes designed and made for me by an American costumer and she does not charge more for my 38D size and 48" hips - she charges based on fringe and ebellishment design - which is why I bought 4 bra/belt sets from her, besides her designs for me are one of a kind originals.

It is largely a business decision- like some stores accepting returns on items they carry, even if it was actually purchased at another store, while smaller shops might only accept returns in exchange for store credit on items that you actually have a reciept for- honestly, big folks like Dahlal are probably loosing a bit of money on those special orders, but they have decided that the customer service aspect is a bigger pay off in the long run. If a small costumer with less turn over were to do the same thing, it might mean they simply have to turn down the custom orders or go without- if it takes me extra time & materials as a small business, I can't eat the expense the same way larger companies can. As my (non-costuming/dance related) business has grown, I am more able now to make exceptions to my return policies, custom order issues, etc. But I am frustrated in general by our society's flat out resistance of paying for value. I know everyone is on a budget and looking for a deal- but if a service is worth something to me, I expect to pay for it. supporting small businesses is worth it to me. having personal contact with an artisan is worth it to me. Every one in business has to make the call for themselves on whether they benefit more at any given time or in looking to the future, how their current policies & pricing will work. It's not a matter of 'fair' that one company can eat the cost and another can't or chooses not to. Different business models are required based on the company's goals & needs.

btw- I wouldn't say 'a lot of larger companies'- great to hear dahlal doesn't charge more, but I have tried to order from enough 'larger companies' that do have positively predatory boob-tax- one nice larger company does not equal 'a lot' - most I have experience with do charge more.

Originally Posted by meena_oasis

I was just bitching about this the other day! What is soo hard to grasp about someone having a rather small ribcage paired with DDD breasts?
It DOES exist..l;,

I also expect to pay 5% to 10% extra for a cup in my size range...g.:

Exactly. Me too (raises hand)! It's just the way God made me. Although I'm willing to pay a bit more in order to have a costume that fits well and looks decent.

How much are you charging now? That would give us a good idea if 50$ more is painful or not...

Figure out how you've broken down the cost of materials and time within your usual costume order, how much extra supplies and time the larger ones are costing you, and go from there.

From what I have found, D cups pay the same as smaller sizes & DD about $10 more. The larger ones than that $15. I am a 38D & a half..l;,, not a full DD - DD is too big, so I use the " squish" method and wear a D. I think say up to $20 is would be fair. But if it is costed out as mentioned in other posts that may be the fairest method, i.e. 12" of bling as compared to 15" per cup/straps etc, 6 crystals @ $$ for smaller sizes versus 9 for larger & so forth plus the extra time spent in making the costume. I wouldn't want to pay $50 though unless it was based on a costing method and you could see it really does cost that much. I think slapping an extra $50 on without explanation may drive away potential customers.

It sounds like the larger sizes are 'custom orders' for you, since you have to modify the design and use more time and materials to make it happen.

I don't care what the politics are, if you have to customize an order for a customer for whatever reason (height, weight, dimensions) then you need to charge extra, just like performance artists would do.

A couple of ways around it: come up with designs that work in various cup sizes. Come up with designs that work up fast in any cup size. Come up with a line that caters to larger sizes. At that point it is not custom.

I've got size 13 feet. Sucks to be me. I sure wish that I could walk into a shoe store and get a nice assortment at 'normal' prices once in a while but the market doesn't work that way.