Thread: Interfacing

So I've never actually used interfacing before. I know. Don't gasp. Everything I've ever made has never required it. I've been reading here on these threads about using interfacing to stiffen up the backs of bras and costume belts.

My costume belt has a felt base. So how do I apply the interfacing? Do I just iron it on? Is it really that easy?

There are sew-in interfacings that have no adhesive.

Then there are interfacings with heat-activated adhesive on one side that you iron on.

Both of the above come in a range of thicknesses from wispy to almost cardboard.

Then there is a magical substance called wonder-under which is double sided adhesive for sandwiching between two fabric layers. It has paper covering the adhesive one side, so you iron on that side, then you peel the paper, put the top of the sandwich on, and iron again.

Wonder-under is great when you have multiple layers of inner infrastructure (interfacing, felt, denim, etc) you want fused together. Also if you want to fuse inner layers to outer decorative fabrics, though I generally don't do this.

Iron-on interfacing is an easy option as long as there's no beadwork on the outside of the costume. The heat from an iron can often cause beads to crack and sequins to split or become deformed. Plus many costume bases are made from acetates, prone to melting when heated. You might want to consider buying a mid- to heavy-weight interfacing and using a bit of flexible fabric glue to adhere it in random locations, then stitch in-place. In lieu of glue you can use random stitches to secure the base to the interfacing. If you simply stitch the interfacing to the outer edges of the costume base the fabric might shift and appear collapsed. Probably not a good description but when performing the weight of the fabric might cause a belt to appear bunched and lumpy. I use the flexible glue or many extra stitches on the bra when adding interfacing for more support.

A wonderful, heavy-duty interfacing is buckram. Stiff and not exactly the easiest to sew but it is my first choice. Plus only one layer is needed. Great for reinforcing soft belts and bra cups. If the staff at your fabric store is helpful you could show them your project and ask for suggestions.

I am anxious to read input from other Bhuzzers.

I always use Pellon 70 as my belt bases and the back straps for my bras. I only use one layer of that as well. Most Joann's carry it. Since you already have a felt template going, just stitch (by hand or machine) the felt to the interfacing. Now you're ready to cover it with fabric.

I use buckram and sew it on..i add grosgrain ribbon to the top and bottom edges. This is all pre decoration.

So the whole sandwich for me is:
felt
stiff interfacing (can't remember what i used last time)
buckram
grosgrain ribbon
then the decorative fabric for the top

Hi
I'm new to making a bra and I am using buckram. What is the best way to lay the buckram in the bra so it does lose its shape?

I was thinking strips but would like to know how you girls do it

Similar to lylagus: my side-strap sandwich looks like:
denim on inside
buckram
stiff thick interfacing
fashion fabric
with grosgrain ribbon on all edges.