Thread: Horsehair + skirt pattern question

Has anyone ordered from Atira's recently? I'd like a couple of patterns but it doesnt look like the site's been updated in quite a while. Just want to check before faxing in the order form (that doesn't even ask for mailing address ..c::)

This is particularly about satin skirts: If you make your own, do you use horsehair in the hem?

Re: Horsehair. Nope. Never heard of this.

{{{HUGS}}}

Ditto what Tahira said about the horsehair. Never heard of it.

I have bought my Atira's patterns from Lucy at Scheherezade Imports. Here's a link: Atira's Fashions (35)

Originally Posted by tahiradancer

Re: Horsehair. Nope. Never heard of this.

{{{HUGS}}}

(Horsehair looks like an open weave ribbon. It's very stiff, and used to make skirts flare out.)

I've never used it for belly dance skirts.

Originally Posted by TexasRuya

This is particularly about satin skirts: If you make your own, do you use horsehair in the hem?

I don't. You probably could use horsehair with a heavy bridal satin, but if you're using a lightweight costume satin, I wouldn't. I'd be afraid it would snag unless you put it in a casing, which is more work. What if you whipstitched light-gauge memory wire to the hem or fed it through the hem itself? Would that give you the same effect with less hassle? I've never tried.

I dont see why you couldnt use horsehair (I would tack it by hand along the hem, rather then sew down). You might just want to try something like a shell hemmer foot that makes a tight tiny rolled hem. . . mine compacts the fabric so much in the hem that it gives it a really nice body/stiffness without anything else.

I'm not looking to make the skirt flair out so much as I'm wondering if the horsehair would keep the hem straight and not wrinkle up. It's been a few years since I've sewn with costume satin, so my memory is of making a Moulin Rouge inspired costume One year and if the satin wasn't perfectly straight and lined up then the hem had a little wrinkle sewn into it. But, I guess horsehair would probably would weigh it down too much and create a thicker/wider hem than needed.

That hem wumple wouldnt be helped by horsehair, but it would, however, not happen if you use a shell hem foot (the hem is SO narrow with those it really cant wumple).

If I understand your problem, you're not able to turn a smooth hem? In that case, another choice would be an exposed hem with no turning like a very narrow zigzag or a serged edge. (You can camouflage it with sequin edging or contrasting thread if you want a nicer look.) If you like the appearance of a blind hem better, then something like hem tape will give you more flexibility than trying to negotiate the curve with the fabric itself.

I was out walking and realized what you were referring to. I have used horsehair (or it's plastic equivalent,) when I was doing historic costumes. I agree that this will add weight and shape to the skirt but it also adds stiffness. I used it to keep the hem from wearing. I can't see an occasion that I would use it on a belly dance costume.

{{{HUGS}}}

{{{HUGS}}}

Try a rolled hem foot...it creates a very narrow hem

If all else fails, some bias binding can be used. Once you sew one side of the binding to the skirt edge, you can iron it to fold right at the seam. The binding will lay flat on the inside, and you can't see it from the outside.

If you want a rippled hem use fishing line. It also adds a bit of weight. You can add sequins over the fishing line is you wish.

Originally Posted by TexasRuya

I'm not looking to make the skirt flair out so much as I'm wondering if the horsehair would keep the hem straight and not wrinkle up. It's been a few years since I've sewn with costume satin, so my memory is of making a Moulin Rouge inspired costume One year and if the satin wasn't perfectly straight and lined up then the hem had a little wrinkle sewn into it. But, I guess horsehair would probably would weigh it down too much and create a thicker/wider hem than needed.

Pre wash your fabric.

Are you talking about a narrow hem in a circle skirt?

If so, there will most likely be 'some' wrinkling in the 'bias' areas of the hem.
You may be able to lessen it by 'stay stitching' (long straight stitch, you can remove later) the hemline first.
For a 1/4" hem, you will need 3/4" seam allowance.

Stay stitch 1/2" from the cut edge of the hem. Iron flat.

Fold the cut edge of the hem up to the 'stay stich' line.
Iron flat, fold in, the 'fold line' of the hem, in again, iron flat again.

Carefully stitch down using a regular pressure foot, a narrow (almost non-existant zig-zag would be good). Iron again.

If it's a straight edge skirt. I'd use a wider/deeper hem to add weight.
Always iron, each time you fold the hem.

PS,
If you decide to use the rolled hem foot, I'd still 'stay-stitch' the hem and iron stitches flat, before I put it into the rolled hem foot.
It will help it feed through better (helps keep the fabric from stretching too much as it goes through the foot).
But there will still be slight puckering on the bias. Iron.

Weird, I dont get any puckering when using a shell hemmer or rolled hemmer. . . none at all (and I dont stay stitch either). It could be the difference though in side of the hem. My shell hemmer is 2mm and my rolled hemmer is only 4mm maybe. I could see how you would sill get wumples with one of the larger ones.

I wish I had an example here at this house to photograph to show the results. Only thing I have handy though is in chiffon.

I'll have to see about getting more/different feet foe my machine, this was many years ago when this happened and I'm pretty sure I used just whatever basic foot was on the machine, nothing specifically for hemming.

Artemis Imports in CA also has patterns.

Originally Posted by NazirahDances

Weird, I dont get any puckering when using a shell hemmer or rolled hemmer. . . none at all (and I dont stay stitch either). It could be the difference though in side of the hem. My shell hemmer is 2mm and my rolled hemmer is only 4mm maybe. I could see how you would sill get wumples with one of the larger ones.

I wish I had an example here at this house to photograph to show the results. Only thing I have handy though is in chiffon.

I only have the problem when I reach the bias area of the fabric.
Stay stitching really helps me to hold on to the fabric, helps me to feed it through the foot evenly.

Maybe I hold on to tight?

Could be holding too tight, could be the tension. I could definitely see it happening with a really wide rolled hemmer, but not one with one of the narrow ones.

I've had the problem with the narrow ones. My tension setting is good; it just slips out on me sometimes. :-(

The stay-stiching, and ironing after each step isn't my idea; I read it in an old couture sewing book.
I use left over thread, from previous projects, then remove it.
The book suggested straight stitch, but I've found narrow zig-zag to be best.

Ruya - Be careful when you iron; try a 'test' piece of fabric, and don't use water (may leave marks).