Thread: Bell-sleeve vests/cholis - A Heated Issue?

One of the common costume items in my troupe is a U-top vest with floaty bell sleeves. We call these "angel wings" or "angel sleeves".

The vest part is usually stretch lace that can be tied in the front and tucked up under a bra, and the sleeves are a sheer chiffon.

Several of the ladies are fond of them since they tend to hide a multitude of sins.

I, however, hate them. Not because I don't think they are lovely (which they are) and not because I don't want to pay for a set (because they aren't expensive) but because they make me sweat like a pig on a spit. After about 4 minutes of heavy dancing while wearing the things, I'm miserable and drenched. I don't know if the chiffon is just refusing to breathe, or what...but it's just not a pleasant situation. We often use these for our opening number, and then I spend the rest of a show feeling soiled and gross.

My troupe mates have been very tolerant of my general refusal to wear them, but I dislike that I always look bare and out of place in any photos or videos where the others have them on.

Does anyone know of some type of more breathable fabric I could use to make my own (I think the ones we have are poly chiffon), or have any other suggestions?

The only other thing I can think of is to just make stretchy arm bands with the chiffon bell sleeves attached and to not have the vest part so that my under arms and back can breathe. (Does that make sense?) But, even then, I would look slightly different from the rest of the troupe.

Okay...now that I have thoroughly grossed myself out talking about this...

LOL

You might try making the sleeves out of mesh rather than chiffon.

My first question was is it the sleeves or the vest which is causing you the most trouble? Each has it's own answer.

{{{HUGS}}}

I love the idea of just sleeves, you would certainly fit in from a distance that way

Other options:
- line the body with cotton (t-shirt fabric) and cut out the armpit so you can breathe

- Carry baby wipes to gigs (I do this anyway)

You could have a circular cut-out in the back of the vest, and you could have "cold" armpits, as they call them at L Rose, which is an opening under the arm. Or you could have a sleeveless u-top and the draped chiffon arm bands.

Silk chiffon might breathe more than poly, but costs a lot more.

Originally Posted by dunyah

You could have a circular cut-out in the back of the vest, and you could have "cold" armpits, as they call them at L Rose, which is an opening under the arm.

Dito;circular or oval cut-outs ventilates:)
Most "angel wing","gypsy" or "flutter sleeve" cholis are made in polyester which explains your issues.

I recommend you sew your own in viscose,modal or rayon lace-these fabrics are very cooling,drape well and are often blended with spandex/lycra(wash in 40 degrees)

Silk chiffon is the most expensive alternative to sew sleeves from like Dunyah says,thin mesh is a cheaper alternative and much cooler than poly chiffon.

Originally Posted by lunascura

After about 4 minutes of heavy dancing while wearing the things, I'm miserable and drenched. I don't know if the chiffon is just refusing to breathe, or what...but it's just not a pleasant situation. We often use these for our opening number, and then I spend the rest of a show feeling soiled and gross.

My troupe mates have been very tolerant of my general refusal to wear them, but I dislike that I always look bare and out of place in any photos or videos where the others have them on.

Does anyone know of some type of more breathable fabric I could use to make my own (I think the ones we have are poly chiffon), or have any other suggestions?
LOL

If the fabric is poly, it is NOT breathing. I have very strong opinions about fabric for costumes; the only thing I'll use a synthetic for is loose bottom pieces (harem pants, skirts, and similar) and even then I feel guilty for what the poor dancer is going to be going through. The difference between a sillk circle skirt and a synthetic one when performing outside is glisten vs sweating buckets.

If you cannot replace the vest with something silk / rayon / cotton / etc then suggest you replace the sleeves with silk chiffon (Dharma trading sells it for $4/yd Silk Chiffon Fabrics ) and line the vest/bra part with an absorbent cotton -- even an old T-shirt.

If the body of the vest is causing issues, I think the sleeves will be a nice alternative. It will still make your arms look uniform with the troupe. You could also try replacing the vest with breathable fabric and leaving the sleeves.

I once made the same shirt twice, but with different fabrics. My first shirt was made with some polyester crap and I was so uncomfortable wearing it. The other one was with cotton, and it made a world of difference.

First, try opening up the underarm seam.

If that doesn't work, remove the sleeves and test to see if the problem is the sleeves or the vest itself. If the vest still gets icky without sleeves, try making the arm hole larger and lower, taking the side of the vest down and away from the pits. Then, try reattaching the sleeves at the top only, leaving the pit open.

If the vest did not require surgery or the sleeves are still too hot with the altered vest, try mesh or silk sleeves.

actually, poly is not the problem, polyester, by it's nature, 'wicks' moisture away and allows it to disperse into the air later.....underarmour is 100% poly and athletes swear by it...however, ALOT of chiffon and other fabrics are made of NYLON, which anyone who wears pantyhose can attest, ain't conducive to comfort.............but regarding the sleeve issue, i agree with many others and either open up the under-arm or purchase one with it already open.....it's a common dance costume practice

Thanks ladies!

It sounds to me like my issue could be nylon in the fabric as it just doesn't breathe or wick in the least.

I'm going to try my local fabric store for some silk chiffon and maybe some nude colored cotton jersey for the vest part since it is supposed to sort of disappear under my bra.

Have you tried opening up the inside seams of the sleeves, so there's a slit (as in a slit skirt) along the inside of your arm? This might be an easier fix than opening up the armpit, but it would still provide additional ventilation and the look consistent with the others.

Originally Posted by Zana

Have you tried opening up the inside seams of the sleeves, so there's a slit (as in a slit skirt) along the inside of your arm? This might be an easier fix than opening up the armpit, but it would still provide additional ventilation and the look consistent with the others.

I haven't tried any sort of deconstruction since I don't actually own a set myself. I have always borrowed them from the troupe costume closet when I've been forced to wear them.

I don't think opening the armpit like others have suggested will really work since there isn't really an armpit, per se. The bells are so large that where the armpit seam would be on a tight sleeve is actually farther down near the bra band on these. Sorry...don't have any pictures.

Opening the bottom seam of the sleeve might work though. Thanks.

Originally Posted by ruta21030

actually, poly is not the problem, polyester, by it's nature, 'wicks' moisture away and allows it to disperse into the air later

Polyester in certain configurations, like UnderArmor, may wick moisture away but it also traps heat, which will often cause more discomfort than the wicking-away is worth, IMO. Athletes need the wicking properties when they are sweating in cold conditions, they need the sweat to be wicked away and dry. If you are dancing a lot in the cold outdoors then a poly that wicks might be the thing.

I may have used the word 'breathes' incorrectly. If breathing = wicking then I stand corrected. But I don't think that is a common definition of breathing. However, definitions aside: the dancers I sew for are much more comfortable dancing in a broad range of conditions when they are in natural fiber costumes.