Thread: Machine Sewing Advice for a Newbie?

I borrowed a friend's sewing machine to complete a costume project, and so far it's going surprisingly well considering I haven't used a sewing machine in years (and was a complete novice when I did). I have some questions, though, and would really appreciate some advice from Bhuz's experienced costumiers!

1) Is there a reasonable way to finish seams without a serger? I'm working on a skirt, and I'm wondering if I should use a zigzag stitch to finish the seams.

2) Is there a trick to hemming? The skirt is hanging now, and the thought of evening out the bottom and hemming it is somewhat horrifying!

3) One of the fabrics I'm working with (a synthetic stretch) is reacting somewhat badly to the sewing. The threads are pulling, which I'm going to try to fix by using a new, finer needle (I'm using ballpoint), but the problem I'm not sure how to fix is that the stitching is sort of pulling the fabric together so that it's creating little see-through spaces around itself. I don't think I'm articulating what I'm seeing very well... It's not a problem for the seams in the skirt, but I'd like to make sleeve drapes out of the fabric on which the stitching would be visible. Right now it's not looking very attractive! I've tried turning the thread tension down. Any other suggestions?

1 - zig zag is fine.

2 - be brave! And get some help to make it even.

3 - along with what you have planned, check and adjust the tension. knit fabrics can be a bear to sew. Also make sure that the tension on the feeder foot isn't too tight or too loose.

Good luck!

{{{HUGS}}}

3. Monkey with the tension settings and practice on a piece of scrap of that fabric.

2. Get a friend with a steady hand, put the skirt on, stand on a chair, have the friend even it out all the way around the bottom... leave a seam allowance!

1. I just use a normal stitch and I double roll the hem (fold it over once, then again so that no frayed edges are showing on the inside either).

Originally Posted by Ainsley

3) One of the fabrics I'm working with (a synthetic stretch) is reacting somewhat badly to the sewing. The threads are pulling, which I'm going to try to fix by using a new, finer needle (I'm using ballpoint), but the problem I'm not sure how to fix is that the stitching is sort of pulling the fabric together so that it's creating little see-through spaces around itself. I don't think I'm articulating what I'm seeing very well... It's not a problem for the seams in the skirt, but I'd like to make sleeve drapes out of the fabric on which the stitching would be visible. Right now it's not looking very attractive! I've tried turning the thread tension down. Any other suggestions?

Try using a "Stretch Needle". These needles are made especially for stretch fabrics and I have found it helps tremendously.

1. Unless you want to do french seams, zigzag is the way to go.

2. If you're going to be doing enough sewing to make it worth the investment, you can buy a device that squirts chalk dust at an even distance off the floor so you can hem your garments by yourself. If you use a friend to help, make sure s/he is a patient one, because you may have to check the measurements more than once (in other words, not an impatient boyfriend or husband who was in the middle of watching the game on TV).

3. Commercial garment manufacturers use a thread called "wooly nylon" when they sew stretch fabrics. It's relatively expensive, but available at most major fabric stores. Unless you are making something that requires crazy elasticity, you can just use it in the bobbin (or the loopers on a serger). Wooly nylon is a multi-fiber thread that has give to it, so it is much more forgiving when the fabric around it stretches. Otherwise, your problem is probably thread tension or the wrong needle, although occasionally some sewing machines just won't work well on a particular type of fabric, no matter how much you fiddle with them.

Check to see if the machine has a stretch stitch option. Many do and that helps a lot. One thing you may want to do befoe fooling around a lot with tension would be to take the bobbin out and clean inside the bobbin well. There should be a small brush with the machine tools that you can use. If you have been sewing chiffon or some other nonknit fabric there may be lint or bits of thread caught in there and it is amazing how much just cleaning that out makes a difference. Also put a new needle in. See if that helps. If the stretch fabric is really slippery, put some tissue paper between the layers as you sew. Then simply tear the paper away when you finish. That helps keep the fabric from sliding around.

Originally Posted by Ainsley

I borrowed a friend's sewing machine to complete a costume project, and so far it's going surprisingly well considering I haven't used a sewing machine in years (and was a complete novice when I did). I have some questions, though, and would really appreciate some advice from Bhuz's experienced costumiers!

1) Is there a reasonable way to finish seams without a serger? I'm working on a skirt, and I'm wondering if I should use a zigzag stitch to finish the seams.

French seems work well for sheer fabrics. you sew right sides out at approx. 1/4 to 1/2 the seem allowance and then flip-it right sides together (in) and sew the remainder of the seem allowance. This encases the raw edges and yet eliminates the bulk of the thread that zig-zagging creates.
2) Is there a trick to hemming? The skirt is hanging now, and the thought of evening out the bottom and hemming it is somewhat horrifying!

Does it ravvle (sp)? if not...leave it raw. If yes...you can get a "rolled hem" foot for the machine at sewing stores or hand hem it (rather daunting...but worth it in the end).
3) One of the fabrics I'm working with (a synthetic stretch) is reacting somewhat badly to the sewing. The threads are pulling, which I'm going to try to fix by using a new, finer needle (I'm using ballpoint), but the problem I'm not sure how to fix is that the stitching is sort of pulling the fabric together so that it's creating little see-through spaces around itself. I don't think I'm articulating what I'm seeing very well... It's not a problem for the seams in the skirt, but I'd like to make sleeve drapes out of the fabric on which the stitching would be visible. Right now it's not looking very attractive! I've tried turning the thread tension down. Any other suggestions?

If you put paper....like tissue paper or just plain old white paper on the outisdes of the project it eliminates the needle pulling the fabric into the feed-dogs...and makes the initial "assalt" (for lack of a better word) of the needle on the fabric less noticeable. Then after you just pull the paper off.

have fun ,r:;

Thanks so much for all the tips!

On the topic of the problem with the stretch fabric, I am using a stretch/ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch setting on the machine. I'll keep fiddling with the tension, and I'm going to try the tissue paper trick and cleaning the bobbin. I'm planning a Joann's run for later today, so I'll see if I can find the woolly nylon then.

Tourbeau, that chalk-dust-spraying machine sounds kind of amazing, but I don't sew often enough to make it worth my while. Honestly, though, despite these difficulties, this project is going so much better than I expected that it makes me want to sew more frequently!

Ditto to everything above. Also...lots of swearing is advised. At least it makes the process a little easier :)

I've also found that Guterman brand thread seems to work best with my machine/breaks/tangles less

Good luck!