Thread: Altering an unfitted assuit dress to fit

Okay, I have a project I'd like to do today. I have an assuit dress (one size, baggy) that I'd like to cut down to my size , and put in darts and a zipper.

Has anyone done this, and what was your experience? Should I go ahead and cut the back of the dress into two pieces and seam them all the way up or cut from the back of the neck down and insert the zipper that way? Should there be darts in the front as well as the back?

Any advice that might make my project a little less trial and error would be appreciated.

You're on the right track. If you want a truly good fit since this will be a piece you'll have for a while going with a back seam with a zipper and darts is the best way to go. You can put a slit in the back too. Don't forget to shape the sides!

You can start with the zipper in the back and add long torso darts in the front first, and then in the rear so that you can adjust so that the zipper lays flat. Open seam under the arm and can also adjust side seams for more fit. Nice thing about assuit is that it is easy to cut because it doesnt ravel and its easy to sew. It does have some stretch so baste in a contrasting color first to fit (easier to pull the basting stitches later).

Once fitted you might want to cover and reinforce side seams with bias tape. I usually use seams 1/2" beyond what I actually need, then roll the fabric and seam again. Then cover everything with bias tape. Some assuit is fragile, I prefer to err on the side of caution.

Take it to a tailor or dressmaker who you trust. really. You'll save yourself some grief and it will come out fitting you better. My initial reaction without seeing the dress is to put the zipper down the left side. . .

{{{HUGS}}}

I've done similar projects but not with assuit. It's doable, but not the easiest project. The more closely fitted you want the dress, the harder the project will be. I strongly suggest practicing on a cheap dress from a thrift store, first.

My method is to put the garment on inside out, and with the help of a friend, tuck and pin to fit. For something like this, I'd add the zipper first.

I start at the side waist, taking two small tucks in back and tucking in at the side seams. Then work upward, as evenly as possible on both sides, keep the side seam at the side of the body don't let them creep forward, adjust the dart tucks at the back as necessary. Stop about where the bust darts will be. Then work down towards the hips.

Then take the garment off, baste the new seams and back darts, put it back on. Adjust as necessary and add the bust darts. Baste those in place, put the thing on right side out, make sure all looks good, then, finally, sew the seams and darts.

One thing to consider is the bust size. A deep dart, necessary for big busts, requires more fabric, in other words, the front piece might need to be longer than the back. If this is the case, you'll see pucker or pull at the sides seams as you mold the dress to your body. In this case, it might be necessary to open the side seams from the bust dart down, then pin them back together smoothly, and take a deeper hem on the back. The same is true of a big booty, the back will need to be a bit longer to cover the territory, so to speak. In this case, the side seams need to be opened from the hip down to prevent puckering.

not a DIY project, unless you are a contortionist in possession of a tryptich mirror. There are some instances when you need someone else to to the darts for you and holds them while you take off the garment. I haven't seen the dress, but this seems like one such project.

sorry I can't help more

Just a word of caution... If it is truly new assuit, the net will stretch... If you take it too tight, it will grow. I am positive of this fact, as mine did stretch!

How I altered mine was to cut the sleeve off and take it in from the sides, cutting in new shoulders. This allows for the design to stay centered and no darts!!

Good luck!

Update: it's coming along...no pics yet; this is an ugly process.

I'm having trouble getting the zipper to lay flat (it's inserted in the back of the dress). Does anyone have any suggestions to keep me from looking like I have humps on my back?

Update: I figured out the solution - shorten the zipper! The project is now complete, though I will be adding paillettes around the skirt hem and the neckline.

I'd love to see progress pics, Tamra, when you have them. This is project I'm interested in undertaking myself!

Unfortunately, I'm terrible at taking progress pics. And honestly, the process was a bit like sausage-making, LOL.

I can testify that the end result is absolutely smashing and Ms TH looked like a doll wearing her assuit dress at the Peace Pipe Hookah Lounge last night!!! :-)

Originally Posted by deelight

I can testify that the end result is absolutely smashing and Ms TH looked like a doll wearing her assuit dress at the Peace Pipe Hookah Lounge last night!!! :-)

Aw, thanks! You looked like a doll, too - but you always do!

I really enjoyed hanging out with you last night. ..g.:

so glad i found this thread..been online shopping for one of these...is there a fav. vender ?????
i already buy from horus and isis...?

Originally Posted by zamora

so glad i found this thread..been online shopping for one of these...is there a fav. vender ?????
i already buy from horus and isis...?

I bought mine second-hand, so I don't know where it came from originally, but it's a nice piece of modern assuit - fairly intricate pattern.

ok, thanks..any one else out there have a place they like to buy from ?