Thread: Making bra & belt - need advice!

I've started making a bra/belt set, and think I may have screwed up the belt, but wanted some advice before starting again!

I'm using two layers of heavy-duty non-woven interfacing (Vilene), each of which I folded in half to ensure the belt shape was symmetrical (front & back pieces). Now I've zigzagged them together, but there is still some 'fold' in each piece - could I zigag on another scrap of interfacing...or should I start all over again?

It may depend on how you are going to finish the design. If you are going to do a lot of beading or cover the whole surface with sequins, the weight of the embellishments may be enough to flatten or camouflage the fold. I am not familiar with Vilene (probably know it by a different name), but I think my main concern is that folding a non-woven interfacing could theoretically cause a weakening along the fold line. Non-woven interfacing can tear along the "grain", so using two layers at right angles or going with a woven like buckram will give a more stable base for heavy embellishments. To that end, I'd bring in a third layer of something and put it on the top of the stack--not only will it help minimize the appearance of the fold, but it will give you a little more substance under your outer fabric. And in the future, I'd suggest folding the pattern for symmetry during the design process, but tracing it flat on the fabric.

BTW, if you are zigzagging the pieces together, I assume that means you are not using fusible interfacing. If so, have you tried ironing what you have already to flatten the crease?

Hi,
you might find this helpful:
Nadya's sewing hints for belly dance / oriental dance costumes;

I'm new here (well I registered some time ago, but didn't write or even read a lot), and I promise I'll introduce myself within the next days.

Yes, you can add more layers. I would recommend cutting the new layer slightly larger, then trimming it afterwards. Or you can add extra stiffener after you have beaded if you want it really sturdy. I have been known to 'glue-gun' on an extra layer of fabric after all the beading is done, and before lining to make it solid. If it is not the weight, just the fold that is the problem, have you tried ironing it? Sometimes more zigzagging over the base helps too.

I'm not sure how thick vilene is- but I'd probably avoid adding an extra layer as if it gets too thick it makes the overlaps a lot more obvious when you're wearing it. I'd try ironing it first (test a scrap first though!) I usually use buckram, a layer of cotton and then my outer fabric. I'm sure the crease is fixable. good luck with it.

When I make my belts, I use plain old "duck" fabric as the base, and reinforce the edges with grossgrain ribbon. I also use a "real bra", cut off the straps and 1/2 the sides. I then make the sides out of the duck fabric. Of course, I edge the sides, all the way under the arms of the cups with the ribbon. Wider for the belt, narrow for the bra. From there, cover & bead/sequin.

Vilene is usually quite thin, but it does come in different weights. I'm not sure what the equivalent brand name is in the US, but it's a lightweight interfacing fabric.

Thanks for all your responses - they're really helpful!

The Vilene is the most heavy duty I could get my hands on, it's pretty sturdy, although they do make thinner interfacing, this stuff is for pelmets and so on so I think two layers will be fine. I can't get hold of woven buckram easily in my local fabric shop so I'm giving this a try.

And...ironing I'll try that first, as I've already reinforced the edges with grosgrain and don't want to start over unless I have to. But I actually suspect that I'll have to recut the pieces - I'm thinking here about what Tourbeau said about weakening the interfacing. I'm not intending to heavily embellish as the fabric (sparkly leopard print) will hopefully do a lot of the 'work'. FWIW I did fold the template, but in a fit of perfectionism decided I needed to do the same with the cut pieces...learned my lesson there I reckon

Thanks again O Wise Costume Making Bhuzzers..g.:

Just wanted to say - a good hot iron then squishing with a heavy book seems to have done the trick...although may yet add another layer :-)

Thanks again!

Disclaimer - I haven't made a ton of belt bases so i'm still experimenting. I thought this picture may help you out a bit. I used heavy interfacing (Pellon) for the base then added the black gross grain ribbon to the edges then I added a layer of buckram (stiff woven material) and quilted through then all in a large zig zag pattern. I have since cut off all the excess buckram. Now i'm going to cover it and decorate : )