Thread: Fixing recycled-silk costume piece

I have a lovely top made from recycled sari materials that gives me trouble. It is a perfect choice for a Romani-inspired costume, so I really want to make sure I fix it for future use. The body is constructed from two layers, cut on the bias. And, as old sari materials tend to do, at one spot, the silk has started to fray and break at a seam, fortunately it is the inner layer.

So, my plan is to do major surgery: remove the inner layer of bias-cut old sari material and just put a piece of new cotton into its place as sort of less fragile support, and use the extra fabric I get that way to add a gusset to remove further stress of the troubled spot.

Now, my question is - what else can I do to make sure that this piece will get the longest possible life? Any sewing techniques I should know and use? Maybe stitch the outer silk layer to the inner lining? Or is it better to avoid that? Should I cut the new lining on the bias, as well? (I am not a trained seamstress, but rather self-learned with the old trail-and-error method, so I am a bit clueless here.)

Yes, recycled sari silk is lovely but very fragile. It can shatter just by looking at it. I have had some success by using a very lightweight fusible interfacing on the backside of the damaged section to bond the shredded edges. Then I have used a decorative machine stitch to reinforce the join. Our troupe has very full patchwork sari skirts that are always in need of repair. We had to reinforce the waistbands on all the skirts plus we have had to use a spare skirt to supply patches for replacing those too torn to repair. Just be very, very careful applying fusible interface (if you do try that method) as you don't want to melt the silk. For your top, since it is on an inner layer seam, reinforcing it with a plain lightweight cotton is a good idea.

There is fusible interfacing that is used for knits that would stretch with the bias cut silk.

Originally Posted by Nebula

Just be very, very careful applying fusible interface (if you do try that method) as you don't want to melt the silk.

Silk doesn't melt, and it doesn't scorch easily either, unless you basically walk off and leave a very hot iron on it.

However, if it is embroidered with synthetic materials, those could melt.

The fusible interfacing will probably have a recommended iron temperature that is lower than what the silk can tolerate.

Originally Posted by ssipes

However, if it is embroidered with synthetic materials, those could melt.

The fusible interfacing will probably have a recommended iron temperature that is lower than what the silk can tolerate.

Very good point, perhaps there was some 'other' fibre in some of the sari silk patches. And in retrospect, I quite likely did have the iron set too high for that patch. This was when I was trying to just iron out some of the wrinkles on the skirt. But it was a definite melting with just touching the iron to one of the patches. A horrible mess all over my iron and it even 'crisped' the edges of the silk. .w.:

I really haven't had any trouble since then with the fusible interfacing and it did provide a nice strong fix for the problem. However, if someone were to try this method, they might want to test if where it won't show and maybe use a cloth over the site to protect the fabric.