Thread: Underskirt questions

So after being inspired by all of the creativy among you in this sub-forum, I made myself some circle skirts from chiffon and crepe to add to my costume wardrobe. I also have some silky-satin circle skirts I wear that I sometimes would like to wear an underskirt underneath. Some of my circle skirts are 1.5 and some just 1.0 around. I want to make either a white or ivory underskirt to wear under them--with the maximum versatility--and hope you experts can help me with the following quesdtions before I invest my time and money in going down the wrong apth.

1. Should the underskirt be the same "diameter" as the top skirt(s)? That is, what is the best width to make the underskirt for maximum versatility--1.5 or 1.0? Can you wear a 1.5 circle skirt under a 1.0 skirt and vice versa (a 1.0 underskirt under a 1.5 skirt)--and still look and dance right?

2. Does the type of fabric need to be the same for an underskirt as the overskirt? I really only want to make 1 underskirt. Can I make it of a less opaque silky/satin to wear under the chiffon skirts, or do I need make it from chiffon if I'm going to wear under chiffon?

All answers, recommendations and suggestions appreciated.

It depends on the look you are going for. It you are looking for big poofy, frothy, I'd suggest a chiffon skirt with either 2 or 3 panels. 2 panels will not line up under a 3 panel skirt, but will give colour and fullness. 3 panel under a 2 panels skirt will again, probably nor line up, but will give colour and movement. Like to like is nice, too.

As for satin under chiffon, that works as well, but my experience is that you won't get as much poof factor out of this combo.

{{{HUGS}}}

Originally Posted by maggied

1. Should the underskirt be the same "diameter" as the top skirt(s)? That is, what is the best width to make the underskirt for maximum versatility--1.5 or 1.0? Can you wear a 1.5 circle skirt under a 1.0 skirt and vice versa (a 1.0 underskirt under a 1.5 skirt)--and still look and dance right?

In regular clothes, the slip can be less full than the top skirt, but if you do a lot of twirling where the skirt will lift up, having a smaller underskirt may be noticeable. I'm not sure I would recommend putting a substantially fuller slip under the top skirt, either--that may get too bulky (unless you are going for that effect, like on square-dancing skirts). If you can afford the expense, I'd make two underskirts at 1.0 and 1.5, so you have slips of the same fullness to match the top skirts. If you're trying to get by with only one, maybe you could split the difference and make a 1.25? That way it is just a little fuller than the 1.0 and just a little smaller than the 1.5.

2. Does the type of fabric need to be the same for an underskirt as the overskirt? I really only want to make 1 underskirt. Can I make it of a less opaque silky/satin to wear under the chiffon skirts, or do I need make it from chiffon if I'm going to wear under chiffon?

Different fabrics will move differently, but if you are trying to line a sheer skirt, it sort of defeats the purpose to line it with more sheer fabric. Would tricot work for you? Tricot isn't too heavy, it moves nicely, and it's the fabric that a lot of lingerie slips are made from.

Thanks, Tahira and Torbeau.

Tahira, I really hadn't thought about whether I wanted poufy look or not--just want to not be so "transparent".

Torbeau, going with 1.25 is a clever solution! I currently have more 1.0 skirts than 1.5, so if you think I really should have one of each, maybe I should start with a 1.0 as my first one.

Hhmmm, I hadn't considered tricot as a fabric option. I will look into that as I do love it for my slips (yes, I still occasionally wear one)!

After reading Tahira's answer, I was wondering what your objective was. Slips can serve different purposes--adding decorative fullness and contrast, increasing opacity and smoothing out the body line, or sometimes all of the above. It's interesting we each went in a different direction with our answers. The multi-colored, multi-layered skirt is definitely a classic look, though.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNRS4D6qLso]YouTube - Samia Gamal Belly dance in Ali Baba and the 40 thieves (danse orientale)[/ame]

Oooh, I love the look of Samia Gamal in that video! So ethereal!

Now I think I have to make at least 3 underskirts--a couple in white chiffon and 1 in tricot for more opacity.

I'm thinking in the short-run, based on Tahira's answer and the video clip, 1.5 chiffon under a 1.0 chiffon skirt might be frothy, and the extra fabric might add a bit of opacity.

I really appreciate the help in thinking through this.

my under skirts are the same length....but usually a stiffer fabric..like sparkel organza or tissuepaper lame....i do have a few skirts that were made to short. : ( i wear on top.

i used lining fabric (easy to match because i get fabric from the prom fabric section in jo-anns) i make circle skirts with the chiffon but make a pannel skirt for the under-skirt. it uses half the fabric and because it's stiffer it gives plenty of fullness, because it's satin-y the chiffon slides over it nicely and still flows.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

In regular clothes, the slip can be less full than the top skirt, but if you do a lot of twirling where the skirt will lift up, having a smaller underskirt may be noticeable....

If they are the same fabric, it adds opacity and modesty. If the underskirt is less full you will flash less leg in spins and turns yet it won't look like a separate skirt if it's the same fabric. :)
Another thing to think about- I like my underskirts to be easily washable. These are the skirts most often next to my skin. The added layer helps protect the sequined/decorated over skirts.

Well, remember that my preferred style of costume is very American Cab with multi layer skirts and layered colours. I also prefer 3 panel skirts.

I agree with the question of what is your goal and what look are you going for. As Samira said, when you take two very full layers of chiffon, put them together, you get more opacity. I also do chiffon under silk. I have 3 of Jes's 3 panel skirts (which she rarely makes anymore), along with some heavier satin. having different fabrics allows me to change things up on a regular basis.

That having been said, I do have a couple of go to skirts for lining purposes: one in silver, one in gold both are only a full circle.

I just remembered that I had this. This is a chiffon skirt (made from 2 sari's) with a Georgette skirt beneath it. Both are fairly sheer, although the Georgette is less so. Together they are completely opaque. Both are 1.5 circle.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlDG8nUmZMY"]YouTube - Raqs Britannia 2007 tahira of Los Angeles[/ame]

There are some other examples in my videos. Punk Raqs is two circle skirts, top chiffon, bottom satin. Just to give you some ideas.

{{{HUGS}}}

Originally Posted by SamiraShuruk

Another thing to think about- I like my underskirts to be easily washable. These are the skirts most often next to my skin. The added layer helps protect the sequined/decorated over skirts.

i hadn't thought of this:
consider how you will be washing, drying, and storing them when you decide how to make the skirt: for example if you make a duplicate circle skirt, and then hang it to dry you could end up warping the hem. OR if you hang the fabric for a long time before hemming then wash it the grain might snap back to how it was before you hung it and you're back to a warped hem.if you plan on storing and drying it flat then this is much less of an issue, but it is something to think about. the less amount of skirt that is on bias the less hem-wrapping will happen ^_^

Oh my! There certainly is a lot more for me to think about than I realized. You all make such great points and things I had not considered! Like being able to wash the under skirts and how to create opacity and fullness. I can see that I am not quite ready to buy fabric, but need to think this through a bit more.

Beautiful performance, Tahira. I was so mesmerized I forgot I was supposed to be focused on your skirt.

Originally Posted by raqFariha

i hadn't thought of this:
consider how you will be washing, drying, and storing them when you decide how to make the skirt: for example if you make a duplicate circle skirt, and then hang it to dry you could end up warping the hem. OR if you hang the fabric for a long time before hemming then wash it the grain might snap back to how it was before you hung it and you're back to a warped hem.if you plan on storing and drying it flat then this is much less of an issue, but it is something to think about. the less amount of skirt that is on bias the less hem-wrapping will happen ^_^

The advantage of tricot is that it is a knit, not a woven, and not as prone to this sort of bias warping and changing shape. My first teacher used to use it for all her circle skirts (even the exterior ones) because the resulting skirts were so good at absorbing abuse. Sew Sassy, which was her source, is showing that they have over a dozen colors in stock, and they give a slight discount per yard if you order more than five yards per cut.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

...Sew Sassy, which was her source, is showing that they have over a dozen colors in stock, and they give a slight discount per yard if you order more than five yards per cut.

It takes about 6 yards for a circle and a half (3 panel) skirt. That 5+ yard discount is nice.

Note that the layered skirt Samia Gamal is wearing is very frothy from the knee down, but isn't the least bit "poufy" between hip and knee. So it is a circle skirt, just cut slimmer from hip to knee.

I have wide hips, so I try to wear a bit less "bulk" at the hip line, tho I love love loves the movement of a circle skirt.

I have a made-for-me circle skirt with a a yoke at the hip line (covered by the belt); I think it's about 7 yards of material, but isn't the least bit bulky at the hips.

Deborah

You could just do harem pants underneath your skirts instead of an underskirt (underskirts fly up when spinning too, so you'll want some sort of coverage anyway)... that's what I do. Even w/ transparent skirts and harems, the combination of the two leaves me plenty covered. You could even do opaque harems out of satin or some other material.

one more thing that i forgot: the fabric i get is very sheer, and even 3 layers of skirt are still a bit see through under regular light (2 skirts and 1 sheer harem pants) which is why i use opaque lining. If you have better fabric (not cheep-jo-anns stuff ^_~) with a tighter weave that is less likely to be an issue BUT:
*remember that it looks differently under different lighting* a skirt that is opaque in your sewing room, and at the nightclub, might be see through on stage.

Originally Posted by raqFariha

*remember that it looks differently under different lighting* a skirt that is opaque in your sewing room, and at the nightclub, might be see through on stage.

Yup.

Found that out with that confetti-dot stuff. .w.:

Deborah

I have seen the Samia Gamal clip several times before, and came to the (unproven) conclusion that the skirt layers might have been cut to allow a little extra shirring at center front and back to add a bit more opacity over your crotch area.

I personally like the look of a 3 panel skirt in chiffon. If you are worried about sheerness, you might want to make it a double layer. If you don't trim the chiffon, you can wash it.

I also like lame. A basic silver or gold skirt is a very classic look. But not easy to wash.

Have you considered metallic lace? Still sheer but more coverage than chiffon.
And washable.

In this photo, I had a sheer chiffon skirt in yellow trimmed with silver. It was made from sari fabric so the skirt was very narrow,not a complete circle skirt and it didn't have the frothy look I wanted.

If you look closely you will see there are 2 skirts underneath, both of them 3 panel circle skirts. The bottom layer is silver lame, the top layer is white and silver metallic lace.

Yellow and White Costume, Onstage at Bouzoukee Lounge - tribe.net

This photo is metallic lace underneath and tissue lame on top. Although I frequently wore it the other way around for a different look.

My first black and silver costume - tribe.net

Originally Posted by maurazebra

I have seen the Samia Gamal clip several times before, and came to the (unproven) conclusion that the skirt layers might have been cut to allow a little extra shirring at center front and back to add a bit more opacity over your crotch area.

I'm not sure it is shirring--I think that would be more bulky. I suspect the panels are either cut in more of a trumpet shape (really flaring out at the bottom) as opposed to semicircles, or there are gores at the bottom or darts at the top to get the semicircles into that shape.

Originally Posted by SamiraShuruk

It takes about 6 yards for a circle and a half (3 panel) skirt. That 5+ yard discount is nice.

I always used 7 yards of 45" material.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

I'm not sure it is shirring--I think that would be more bulky. I suspect the panels are either cut in more of a trumpet shape (really flaring out at the bottom) as opposed to semicircles, or there are gores at the bottom or darts at the top to get the semicircles into that shape.

Mmm. Too me it looks like two full circle chiffon skirts, with white on the bottom. But it could be darted at the top. Or just carefully gathered and sewed into place. Too bad they don't show Samia more so we could get a really good look.

Originally Posted by norma

Mmm. Too me it looks like two full circle chiffon skirts, with white on the bottom. But it could be darted at the top. Or just carefully gathered and sewed into place. Too bad they don't show Samia more so we could get a really good look.

stupid plot getting in the way ^_~ (im with you)

i think the skirt shape is owed to the fabric layers all being soft and flimsy, and the style of belt, which fits down around her hips and holds the fabric in.
it is certainly gathered more at the crotch (any extra bulk can fall between her legs there), it *might* also be that the under-skirt has a blue panel at center front whereas the sides have the tan fabric for the underskirt.
i love that costume, so dreamy. ^_^

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

I'm not sure it is shirring--I think that would be more bulky. I suspect the panels are either cut in more of a trumpet shape (really flaring out at the bottom) as opposed to semicircles, or there are gores at the bottom or darts at the top to get the semicircles into that shape.

I'm not sure either ;) But I'm convinced there's something there beside strands of pearls preventing show-through. Extra flare or darts, those ARE very likely, especially the darts (or stitched tucks, would it be? That would give three layers of opacity).

Originally Posted by norma

Mmm. Too me it looks like two full circle chiffon skirts, with white on the bottom. But it could be darted at the top. Or just carefully gathered and sewed into place. Too bad they don't show Samia more so we could get a really good look.

Yeah, tell that guy to stop talking so I can see more closeups of the skirt!

Tahira--so pretty! I love the way the skirt moves, wow. I was mesmerized. (The veil too...is that silk? I've never seen the way a silk veil moves before. I suppose there's no vegetarian fabric that moves like that?)

Maggie and Kat -

Thank you for your compliments. I am glad you enjoyed the performance.

And Kat, yes, that veil is silk. 5mm I believe. I think the closet you would get in a non-animal based fabric would be some type of rayon, or what is sometimes called "Rayon Silk." The skirts on the other hand, were both polyester. Also, there is a product out called Peace Silk which is a cruelty free process of harvesting the silk fiber. Here is a link which you might want to look into if you aren't against wearing and using animal products which are cruelty free such as wool and dairy. If you are, that's fine, too. Try the rayon.

Aurora Silk: Natural Dyes, Exceptional Fabrics, Yarns, Fibers

{{{HUGS}}}