Thread: Tips for making a skirt with a dip in the front?

Having finally finished my first handmade costume, I've started planning my next project (be prepared for a deluge of questions!).

Skirts that dip in the front are particularly flattering on me, and I'm wondering if anyone has tips or tricks for making them. The one I'm wearing in the photo below was made by ruching the centre front of the skirt and covering the ruched area with an appliqué, but I'm wondering if there are alternative options for achieving the same effect.

Lovely photo!!!

I was going to suggest exactly the way your skirt is made.

To cut the skirt with a 'dip' in it, may be very hard to fit, well enough to stay up, unless maybe you put a band inside of it.

There's one other way I can think of, but I will have to find a photo/link of the pattern I have in mind.

Be back in a minute. Hopefully I can find what I'm looking for.

This isn't exactly what I was looking for.
I was hoping to find a certain Kwik Sew pattern, with a 'V' shaped waistband that was popular in the 80's.

My computer won't let me copy and paste right now.

Go to eBay, and check out McCall's pattern #8813.
Maybe you could modify this pattern?

I've tried it two ways.

The easiest is to cut the front 1 to 2 inches deeper... gradually decreasing the cut up to the top sides of the skirt.

Another way that gets a better fit is to pin the casing in several places while you are wearing the skirt, then take it off and sew it.

Do you want a fixed waistband or an elastic one? If you want the waistband to be rigid, then you can cut it to that shape and interface it so that it doesn't stretch or sag. There are fusible knit interfacings on the market that will help hold the shape without turning the garment into a Turkish belt, assuming your fabric can withstand the ironing to attach it or the design can compensate for sewing it in place.

If you want an elasticized waistline, the method of ruching will probably be easier. I've never tried to sew elastic in a "V" shape (where you miter the points together). but that might be a compromise. I think necklines of commercially made exercise wear usually have some elasticity built into them. The problem is that if you just make a v-shaped casing, the elastic will want to pull the dip upward, unless you have something like the center ruching to counteract the force.

I found I needed to add craft wire to the edge of skirts with a dip (instead of ruching) They might sit fine if it were just fabric, but once I got beading on there, the extra weight made the fabric roll down. Good new is that it is really easy to sew craft wire into the upper edge, & I only needed it in the back, so I could still stretch it enough to not need a zipper. Of course, I have a flat rear, so that might not be a concern for everyone...

BTW- having a dressmakers dummy (fancy one or even a duct-tape double) is really helpful when designing your own patterns- there are a few books out there about fabric draping, and most are available on inter-library loan!

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

If you want an elasticized waistline, the method of ruching will probably be easier. I've never tried to sew elastic in a "V" shape (where you miter the points together). but that might be a compromise. I think necklines of commercially made exercise wear usually have some elasticity built into them. The problem is that if you just make a v-shaped casing, the elastic will want to pull the dip upward, unless you have something like the center ruching to counteract the force.

Now that you mention it, I have yoga pants that have a V dip in front- the elastic doesn't pull anything out of place, but then again, the structure of pants may be helping to counteract that too. I usually use a nice, strong high performance lycra fabric, and like I said, it stays in place until I add the weight of the beads.

Thanks everyone for the input!

Originally Posted by gothique

Go to eBay, and check out McCall's pattern #8813.
Maybe you could modify this pattern?

As someone with little sewing experience, modifying a swimsuit bottom pattern into a skirt top seems like it might be more challenging than the freestyle alternatives. I'll keep the pattern on file, though!

Originally Posted by Lesedi

The easiest is to cut the front 1 to 2 inches deeper... gradually decreasing the cut up to the top sides of the skirt.

So that is possible? Did you use a yoke? Have you ever tried it on a skirt you then beaded?

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

Do you want a fixed waistband or an elastic one?

Elastic, although my grand plan is to bead the hip area of the skirt, which may necessitate a zipper in the end anyway.

I've never tried to sew elastic in a "V" shape (where you miter the points together). but that might be a compromise... The problem is that if you just make a v-shaped casing, the elastic will want to pull the dip upward, unless you have something like the center ruching to counteract the force.

Ah, I see. Hmm... Maybe I should try my options with some scrap fabric first and see how well some of these alternatives play out in practice.

Originally Posted by Lara L

I found I needed to add craft wire to the edge of skirts with a dip (instead of ruching) They might sit fine if it were just fabric, but once I got beading on there, the extra weight made the fabric roll down.

Thanks for this! Great suggestion.