Thread: SEWING 101: Need help on sewing 2 things

Hi ladies,

First of all, I have a Satan Kaftkan that is way too large. I got a one size fit all, and I'm super slim. I'm going to open up the side seams and take it in, but I also want to add a drawstring at the waist, to make it a little form fitting. How would I make a casting and opening for it?

I also have a 2 piece costume that has a split on the left side. I would like to either sew that side up, and add a split to the other side, or leave the left side split and add a split to the right side.

The thing is, I just have to have a split on the right side, so what ever way is easier.

Does anyone know how to add a split? Is that possible without ruining my costume? I know I can open up the side seam and put a split there, but I want it in the front right side.

Originally Posted by NadiaLayla

I'm going to open up the side seams and take it in, but I also want to add a drawstring at the waist, to make it a little form fitting. How would I make a casting and opening for it?

1. Identify where you want the drawstring. The easiest option is to open and reinforce a hole in an existing seam, but if that is not the look you want, then reinforce the fabric with interfacing or a scrap of sturdy fabric and make a buttonhole or insert a large eyelet into the garment at the spot where you want the drawstring to pull through.

2. Measure and mark where you want the casing to go. Sew a strip of grosgrain ribbon, hem facing, or single-sided bias tape at the top and bottom edges to line up with your casing markings. Remember to turn under the vertical edges of the casing where it meets the drawstring hole as you sew.

3. Thread the drawstring through the casing. It doesn't sound like you want the drawstring to pull inward, so if you like, you can hand stitch the opening left on the inside where the two ends of the casing meet from Step 2 for a more finished look.

Another option is to use elastic that is secured at both ends (caftan opening down the front) or sewn together into a loop (pullover) instead of a drawstring, so that you can skip making the outer hole in Step 1. You could also run the elastic through part of the garment (e.g., only in the back) to give some shaping, but without having to mess with a drawstring. If your caftan has a large design panel down the front that you want to preserve, you might also consider modifying the above instructions to make two exterior holes farther apart for a drawstring that shows more lacing.

I also have a 2 piece costume that has a split on the left side. I would like to either sew that side up, and add a split to the other side, or leave the left side split and add a split to the right side.

If you have a skirt that is assembled from panels, you can open the seam that's closest to where you want the second slit fairly easily. If there is no seam nearby, then you are looking at cutting into the garment. Depending on the way the skirt is embellished, this might look natural (e.g., if the designs are only at the top and the pre-existing slit has no decorations) or wonky (e.g., if you've closed a decorated seam and opened an new, undecorated one). Hard to say without seeing the skirt.

Originally Posted by NadiaLayla

Hi ladies,

First of all, I have a Satan Kaftkan that is way too large. I got a one size fit all, and I'm super slim. I'm going to open up the side seams and take it in, but I also want to add a drawstring at the waist, to make it a little form fitting. How would I make a casting and opening for it?

Before you make a casing, have you tried belting the Kaftkan to see if you would like the look of it gathered in at the waist. Belt isn't perfect, but it might give you an idea if you really want it gathered with an elastic casing.

I don't know how decorated the kaftkan is, but I wonder how waist darts would look, to take in the fullness?

* Never mind on the darts, I forgot you will need to put a zipper in, to get it on.
I was exhausted, when I posted last night.

I would make casing as Tourbeau described.

(((Hugs)))

Without seeing the skirt, I can't give advice on that either.

Tourbeau -- wow! Thank you for the very detailed instructions. I am working on a project similar to NadiaLayla's and your direction will be invaluable. Much appreciated!

IF the shape of the caftan allows, you can create a closer fit, add a folkloric styling AND leave the side seams (which may be ornamented or slightly fitted) alone by adding two long seams, each 7-8 inches from the center front and back. This creates the look of a center front/back panel which is very common in 'ethnic' garments.

Here's an example: note the center panel which is joined with long straight seams to the side, which is in turn composed of sleeve, gusset and lower side panel. http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etex.../plate/002.jpg

I have nothing to add to Tourbeau's directions for an applied casing, other than to say that if you make the two long seams as above you will have a convenient seam to insert elastic into the casing with IF you would prefer not to created folded ends on the grosgrain ribbon/ bias binding you are using to make the casing.

If you want to try a self-casing, you can fold and press the fabric about 1" below the desired casing location, stitch 1.5" from the fold to create a casing, and then press the new casing down (towards the hem) and stitch the folded end to the garment to keep the casing from 'floating.' (If the elastic is narrow, the 'float' might be fine as is).

You might also want to reconsider the location of the casing. A little higher on the torso is very flattering to most body types, but especially so on slender figures, IMO. It also has a more 'folkloric' look than gathering at the waist... IMO.

As far as your skirt: Hard to give advice without knowing what the skirt is made of, how it is ornamented, or what it looks like now. A long narrow facing at the desired location (like the neck of a pull-over shirt) MIGHT work - or it might cause all hell to break loose :)

For the split in the skirt - if you can't just cut and hem the opening, you could face it with bias binding. This would probably make it sit nice and flat, and you'd only lose a few mm of skirt material to the split hem.

Cut your split. Open out a strip of bias binding (you're not going to retain the centre fold) and pin along the edge of the split, with right sides together. Sew along the bias binding's edge-fold to create the hem. It'll be just a couple of mm in. Turn bias binding to inside the skirt, fold under the other edge-fold, and sew it down a few mm in from this edge.

You'd probably want to use fairly thin bias binding, so that the second seam won't be too far from the edge of the split.

Thanks ladies, you have been more than helpful!