Thread: What is the minimum flare for an A-line skirt to allow movement? - Pic added!

I have one meter of gorgeous lycra that matches my dahab bedlah perfecly and I'm curious if one meter or close to a yard is enough to make a skirt. I'm 33" hip, butt about 35". Can't find anymore of this lovely stuff so...hmmm...what am I asking? - How much flare does an A-line skirt need to give enough movement to the legs? Any magic formula? Or should I plan on finding something complimentary to enlarge it? Or if anyone can measure their skirt across the bottom and post the measurements would be cool. I've tried to figure it out from photos on swapmeet but can't guage it. Thanks.



Excuse our nasty basement! So stormy out that it was too dark in most of the house. Happy New year to all.

Two way stretch or four way stretch?

The direction with the most stretch has to go around your hips. Least stretch has to make it from the belt line to the floor. Before you decide what to do with it, sling it around yourself and check that out.

I just checked and its 4-way. I am trying to avoid having a slit because I have eczema on my lower legs, so I always try to have an alternate skirt that won't open up, that and the inside is white and would show up against the hologram purple print. Think I'll mess about with an old sheet and see what happens, don't know why I didn't think of that first. Perhaps I could use heels and learn tiny movements. lol. Thanks all.

You can make the skirt from the clip sahar bra and belt. The width of the skirt below is the width of your fabric.

Depending on how tall you are and the width and pattern of the fabric, it may or may not be enough. Simplicity 4401 is intended for wovens, but their yardage listing for a size 10 (34.5" hips, smallest size of the pattern) is 1-3/8 yards for the straight skirt shown on the far right model in lavender--that's about as straight as you're going to get, and that's cutting with the grain, although that skirt sits a little higher on the hips than what you need (40" finished length). A lot of the commercial dance skirts are cut on the bias (diagonally) and that uses more fabric.



I'm assuming the width isn't the problem, so can you get the length you need for the skirt out of one yard (i.e., is 36" long enough to leave a little extra fabric to turn under to make a waistband and hem)? If so, then you can definitely get some styles of skirt out of it. If it is long enough, you could add to the width of your hem by making gores of another fabric like chiffon or a contrasting color of the same kind of fabric.

If the fabric isn't too bulky, the easiest answer is to make what I call a "curtain skirt," where you just make a casing across the top and thread it on a drawstring or elastic like curtains on a rod. A 45" width would make a fairly full skirt for walking, 60" even wider. (For reference, the lavender skirt has a finished hem width of 37.5" with a slit.) Since one or two slits won't work for you, if that's not enough closed hem width, then you'd be looking at adding some sort of contrasting gore(s) again, unless you want to leave the slits and wear harems underneath. A more advanced version of the curtain skirt is if you dart the top to take some of the bulk out, since this would be hidden by the belt. Alternatively, you could make a shallow yoked waist and drop the desired fabric down a little to squeeze out another inch or two, since this would also be hidden by the belt.

I'm not sure why patterns say to either cut with the grain or on the bias, but they almost always do. The Fashion Police aren't going to arrest you if you cut along the cross grain, but I guess I'm more comfortable recommending you explore what kind of skirts you can make out of the fabric along the grain line before rotating 90 degrees.

Originally Posted by xochitl

I have one meter of gorgeous lycra that matches my dahab bedlah perfecly and I'm curious if one meter or close to a yard is enough to make a skirt. I'm 33" hip, butt about 35". Can't find anymore of this lovely stuff so...hmmm...what am I asking? - How much flare does an A-line skirt need to give enough movement to the legs? Any magic formula? Or should I plan on finding something complimentary to enlarge it? Or if anyone can measure their skirt across the bottom and post the measurements would be cool. I've tried to figure it out from photos on swapmeet but can't guage it. Thanks.

Xochitl, I don't think there is enough info to help you out. How wide is the fabric? What is the sideseam length (i.e. from the hip where the skirt would sit to the floor)? Or better measure the back seam length along the most protruding part of the butt to know the maximum skirt length. I hope I didn't confuse you...

eta: If you wear dance shoes when you dance put them on before starting measuring

My first take, assuming that the fabric has no nap, would be that you could create a gored skirt with an A-line flare that has a hem 1.5 times the width of your fabric by cutting trapazoid pieces. However, the gores suggested by Tourbeau make a skirt with a more finished look without additional decoration, IMO anyway. And then you can have as much hem as you like.

I would love to follow the advice on the sahar bra and skirt because they have beautiful flow but I don't have enough fabric to cut on the bias. No the Fashion Police will not get me on this one. ( I hope to try the sahar method on some other fabric eventually)

The lavender skirt on the pattern was what I had in mind and I never thought of adding a yoke or even harems. - thanks Tourbeau! I think the yoke is the answer and then I could add a small godet of matching fabric to the back if Ihave enough. It's doable this way and if I don't wear shoes. I only mentioned shoes as a joke because they limit my movement so big strides are out of the question, thus less flare needed. It didn't occur to me that more length would also be needed, oops.

I realize these things are hard to explain in writing, but thanks for all the great input. I see the solution now and I won't cheap out on buying fabric in future either! Best wishes to all over the holidays.

I have several trumpet lycra, stretch satin and stretch velvet skirt that I have made from 1 meter of fabric. I have an opening on one leg, but if you do not want because of your eczema, you don´t have to, or you can sew a chiffon panel into the slit. But you can sew trumpet skirt from 1 meter of fabric when you cut fabric in 4 panels and you insert 4 triangles that will give you needed flare. I am 161 cm/5,3 and upper hip 33, lower hip 35...
I made very uneven and quick sketch of the pattern for you, I hope, that you will understand what I mean from this sketch, and I am appologizing for my english :)

Luccia, that sketch is worth 1000 words.

Just a note... one does not need to cut four way stretch fabric on the bias. Cutting on the bias is for wovens in order to (1)make use of the natural stretch diagonal to the grain and/or (2)create a different look to the drape of the fabric. Neither of these is applicable to stretch fabrics.

A lycra skirt usually looks best when there is NOT a bunch of extra fabric around the hips, particularly when the lycra is treated or coated as for a hologram print. This stuff is generally heavy and reflective (and sometimes sticks to itself). A skirt made from such a fabric will be most flattering when it hugs the hips a little bit and is darted in at the belt area to fit the body with a minimum of gathering. (Luccia's multiple panel layout works wonderfully to allow several seams along which excess can be taken in.)

I know some people make skirts out of this stuff who literally cut a front and an back, pin fit the rectangles to themselves inside out, mark the seamlines, sew leaving a side seam open along the leg, add waistband, cut length to fit and be done. One costume I saw was very cleverly constructed with separate elastic pieces for the front and back, so each had just enough grip.

I know some people make skirts out of this stuff who literally cut a front and an back, pin fit the rectangles to themselves inside out, mark the seamlines, sew leaving a side seam open along the leg, add waistband, cut length to fit and be done. One costume I saw was very cleverly constructed with separate elastic pieces for the front and back, so each had just enough grip.

*raises hand*

I go even worse - wrap it round me, mark seamline (singular), sew, cut off any excess, turn over top, run through elastic, hem. I like a slinky skirt though. And a metre will only just make a skirt for me at much bigger and probably taller than the OP. You should easily get a straight skirt out of a metre but as to your luck greating a godet, I guess that depends.

I once had a straight skirt with overleg slit that had a straight rectangle of the same fabric stitched inside, at the top of the slit. It gave extra coverage and swung out prettily when I spun, but it did not actually cover the legs completely.

Myself - but bear in mind, I am leggy and lazy - I'd be inclined to cut a skinny skirt with a slit over one leg, and look for a suitable drapey fabric like a chiffon or georgette to make a big godet that will give you coverage *and* movement. Also, disclaimer, I am the roughest seamstress IN THE WORLD.

Originally Posted by Zumarrad

I'd be inclined to cut a skinny skirt with a slit over one leg, and look for a suitable drapey fabric like a chiffon or georgette to make a big godet that will give you coverage *and* movement.

I have seen a really cute example of something similar! A visiting dancer was wearing a straight lycra skirt with matching bra; they were both decorated with some swashes of a permanently pleated soft fabric. Above the slit on the leg there was a sequined applique and a ribbon of this pleated fabric hung from that; when she was at rest it mostly covered the slit, but when she danced it was almost like a "megafringe." The whole costume was tone-on-tone dark and pale peach and it was just lovely. I remember thinking at the time that because the "faux godet" was free-hanging, it didn't have to be sewn into the slit... less work!

Luccia, nice sketch!
xochitl, if the fabric is 60'' and your seamline is less than a yard (including allowance) you can go for a three gored skirt, that hugs the hips and flares nicely at the bottom. You can go with one/two or no slits at all. This is the same kind of skirt that I'd shown in the November WAYWO thread

http://www.bhuz.com/showthread.php?5...l=1#post786768

http://www.bhuz.com/showthread.php?5...l=1#post790224

You can see how it looks like up close in this album
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...3555.724293289



I will try to attach a sketch later on.

Originally Posted by tigerb

A lycra skirt usually looks best when there is NOT a bunch of extra fabric around the hips, particularly when the lycra is treated or coated as for a hologram print. This stuff is generally heavy and reflective (and sometimes sticks to itself). A skirt made from such a fabric will be most flattering when it hugs the hips a little bit and is darted in at the belt area to fit the body with a minimum of gathering. (Luccia's multiple panel layout works wonderfully to allow several seams along which excess can be taken in.)

My only concern about this as a blanket statement is that not all fabrics are substantial enough to make up nicely as a form-fitting style. There are some very low-end, flimsy stretch fabrics out there. They've been discussed on Bhuz before, mostly in the context that the foiled ones lose their finish over time with the rigors of dancing, but these bargain stretch fabrics tend to be pretty sheer and likely to show every lump, bump, and VPL when made up as a snug garment. If that's what this piece is, then it's best to not go with any design that wouldn't also work with chiffon, and to invest as little effort as possible in it. OTOH, if it feels like swimwear weight or heavier, the cut edges don't start running as soon as a scissors touches them, and if you hold a single layer against your body and your underpants aren't screaming through, then you've got the nicer-quality fabric, and a form-fitting skirt would be a better choice than a fuller style.

Sometimes foiled fabrics can be temperamental to sew, another reason not to get too involved in tricky patterns if you don't have fabric to spare. Multi-gore skirts are lovely, but if your fabric is slipping around under the presser foot or the needle keeps requiring treatment with Sewer's Aid, it may be better to go with a design with fewer seams--e.g., one big gore in the back or a floating modesty panel over a side seam, instead of lots of little rectangles and wedges. In other words, before you cut your entire pattern out, if you can skim a little off the edge (maybe one of the edges isn't quite straight where it was cut off the bolt), it's a good idea to test it on your machine first.

Here is a rough sketch (). Note that I have a transparent panel in the skirt (I believe it was 11cm at its widest part) Depending on the width of your lycra and its elasticity you might get away with no panel at all, or you can try and make the gores wider at the hip part but then of course you would have to decrease the flare. Another option would be to add a panel from a matching chiffon or mesh.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

My only concern about this as a blanket statement is that not all fabrics are substantial enough to make up nicely as a form-fitting style. There are some very low-end, flimsy stretch fabrics out there. They've been discussed on Bhuz before, mostly in the context that the foiled ones lose their finish over time with the rigors of dancing, but these bargain stretch fabrics tend to be pretty sheer and likely to show every lump, bump, and VPL when made up as a snug garment. If that's what this piece is, then it's best to not go with any design that wouldn't also work with chiffon, and to invest as little effort as possible in it.

You can still work with these "flimsy" fabrics, because their flimsiness can also be an advantage in the form of really nice draping. To avoid VPL and showing off lumps and bumps you can sew in a mini skirt or shorts. Actually sewing in shorts is a good practice regardless the quality of lycra because it prevents the skirt from moving around the hips.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

My only concern about this as a blanket statement is that not all fabrics are substantial enough to make up nicely as a form-fitting style.

Agreed. Hence the word "usually."

Thanks so much everyone for all the valuable info and I've saved your sketches for future use too. Hope that's ok.

So I just made the skirt much as Zumarrad did by fitting it around me and pinning over the butt. At the back I put in as big a godet as I had fabric for. I didn't have time to finish it but it should hang better once I iron it gently. If not, I'll get enough chiffon to add a few more godets (is a godet exactly the same as a gore or is there a subtle difference?)

I forgot to mention that the print on the fabric is a slightly diagonal flame pattern and I needed to have it aim "up" which seriously limited the use of the fabric. It would have been easier to make had I been willing to live with sideways flame. And this would be the reason the patterns always take extra fabric when matching prints or nap. i should know better.

I'll try to post a pic this weekend - a skill which is new to me but time to learn. A little neophobic when it comes to technology.

Originally Posted by xochitl

I have one meter of gorgeous lycra that matches my dahab bedlah perfecly and I'm curious if one meter or close to a yard is enough to make a skirt. I'm 33" hip, butt about 35". Can't find anymore of this lovely stuff so...hmmm...what am I asking? - How much flare does an A-line skirt need to give enough movement to the legs? Any magic formula? Or should I plan on finding something complimentary to enlarge it? Or if anyone can measure their skirt across the bottom and post the measurements would be cool. I've tried to figure it out from photos on swapmeet but can't guage it. Thanks.



Excuse our nasty basement! So stormy out that it was too dark in most of the house. Happy New year to all.

!!!!! The picture ended up on first post. Still getting the hang of this.

The skirt is very nice and I love your dog :)

It looks nice!