Thread: Altering the waistband of a skirt to keep it from slipping

I have a heavy lycra skirt with lots of beading. When I shimmy, it goes south. I can't take it in because the top edge is beaded. The back of the skirt has a wide thread casing with a piece of elastic in it. The elastic is already pulled as taut as it can go without bunching up. The front of the skirt does not have a thread casing and doesn't look like it could support one (the hem is very narrow, perhaps only a quarter inch, whereas in the back it is about an inch wide and the thread casing is sewn onto that double layer of fabric).

I was considering pulling the elastic out of the thread casing and replacing it with grosgrain ribbon, but wasn't sure if that would make the skirt ride up in the back and droop in the front, since the front wouldn't have the same support.

I read this article on Shira's website, http://www.shira.net/costuming/sewing/casing.htm, about using bias tape, but I can't figure out if I could make it work. Every video tutorial that I've seen using bias tape ends with the bias tape showing on the outside of the garment. Am I missing something? Can you use bias tape to make a casing that's entirely INSIDE a skirt waistband?

Please help me out- I'm a total sewing idiot! I want to be able to either do this myself or to give specific instructions to a seamstress.

I will be watching this as well, I have a couple of skirts that ride south with too much shimmying (& my hips just go on automatic machine gun style shimmy without intention)

It sounds like the skirt is simply too big. Is there an undecorated (or minimally decorated) side seam, where it could be taken in? You might be able to thread a narrow ribbon or drawstring into the 1/4" hem around the top, and you might be able to replace the elastic in the back with something non-elastic to take up the slack, but these are not really the best long-term solutions. The main advantage to them is that they are easier to undo if you sell the costume down the road.

I don't know if the "droop" you are worried about would happen or not. If the weight is more in the back than the front (lots more back decoration than front), you might be okay, but you might not, too. Or, it may be obvious that the back is puckery from being over gathered and the side seams aren't on the sides of your hips any more--it depends on how big "too big" is. If the back is pulled tightly, and the front is not the more decorated half, the skirt should be stable to wear. There are lots of regular-clothing skirts where the back is elasticized but the front isn't. You may find if you do this, you'll want to reinforce the front so that it doesn't bunch up, though. Skirts in this style have a tendency to crunch up vertically in the front from the pull of the elastic in the back if they're not reinforced with additional interfacing.

Yes, you should be able to make a bias-tape waistband where very little or none of the bias tape shows. It's all in the positioning of the tape. If you sew it a bit lower, the outer fabric should roll inward enough to hide it.

How about making a pair of jeweled suspenders?

Just kidding. I know how frustrating it is. Have you tried padding your hips and bum? Might make enough difference, especially if you also do everything else to tighten it, to keep the skirt from going south. You could experiment with maxi pads to see if it is going to work before investing in actual fanny pads, which are available on line.

In lieu of regular elastic I prefer button hole elastic. That way I can adjust the as needed with out additional sewing.

One thing you might consider is replacing the elastic in the back with a piece of similar elastic that is much less stretchy. Elastic comes in lots of different types... some stretchier than others... and some, when it gets older, doesn't bounce back to shape as well. Just replacing that piece in the back might stabilize it enough that it won't stretch out so easily to slide down over your hips.

If you swap the elastic out for something that doesn't stretch at all, will you be able to get it on?

More drastically... if you really love this costume and want to wear it a lot... is to take it to a seamstress, have her put a non-stretchy stabilizing tape all around the inside, and insert an invisible zipper. Then that skirt will not be able to migrate south.

Originally Posted by tigerb

One thing you might consider is replacing the elastic in the back with a piece of similar elastic that is much less stretchy. Elastic comes in lots of different types... some stretchier than others... and some, when it gets older, doesn't bounce back to shape as well. Just replacing that piece in the back might stabilize it enough that it won't stretch out so easily to slide down over your hips.

If you swap the elastic out for something that doesn't stretch at all, will you be able to get it on?

More drastically... if you really love this costume and want to wear it a lot... is to take it to a seamstress, have her put a non-stretchy stabilizing tape all around the inside, and insert an invisible zipper. Then that skirt will not be able to migrate south.

It has a side zipper, so I can still get it on and off easily even if it is several inches smaller. It hasn't been worn at all yet. I have a show in 3 months, so I considered just selling it as a a whole costume and getting an identical replacement in a smaller size, but I don't know if I'd get it in time. (I can't order without selling this one first, because I'd need the money up front.)

Originally Posted by dunyah

How about making a pair of jeweled suspenders?

Just kidding. I know how frustrating it is. Have you tried padding your hips and bum? Might make enough difference, especially if you also do everything else to tighten it, to keep the skirt from going south. You could experiment with maxi pads to see if it is going to work before investing in actual fanny pads, which are available on line.

Ha ha.. padding? On me? :) I've got plenty of hip padding to begin with. I'd look like those primitive fertility goddess sculptures...

For a skirt that's not too heavy, I've basted the top edge of 3/4 inch elastic directly to the top edge of the skirt, hiding the stitches under a row of beading. Not sure how well this would hold up with a heavier skirt, though.

I've done this to a couple of costumes that have a slipping lycra skirt. Get some non-stretch cotton tape and hand-stitch it to the inside of the 'waist' all the way around. Hand-stitches won't show up amongst the decoration on the skirt. The only tricky bit is to measure the right amount of cotton tape, and it's easy to undo if you sell or change sizes

This is what I do for all my modern lycra skirts with elastic + zipper waist bands (I never trust an elastic waistband for a skirt with no belt on stage!)

1. Remove elastic from casing
2. Measure the circumference of where you want the skirt to sit on your hips. Add 4 inches.
3. Cut a double length of grosgrain ribbon sewn together into a single length
or a single length of polyester webbing (like used for luggage straps, belts, etc.) It comes in lots of colors to prevent peek-through coloring under strong stage lights

4. With the skirt ON YOUR BODY start pining the webbing or doubled ribbon at the start of the side of the zipper. Pin it all the way around on the inside of the skirt waist band to the other side of the zipper. Doing this on the body eliminates guess work with the amount of stretch needed. The extra few inches will form a small overlap on the inside. This can be secured with a strong hook for extra security.
5. Baste the webbing to the skirt.
6. Put it back on and jump up and down :p
7. If it stays up well, sew it down for real. I hand stitch to protect the beading.
8. I always put a safety pin across the zipper horizontally, from the inside, under the zipper pull if there is any question that the zipper might pull down on stage, just from movement or the designer using a low quality zipper.

Hope this helps.

LOL @ what Dunyah said! Too funny though it brings to mind the strapping often seen in costumes. If the other suggestions still don't feel secure could you have some matching straps made? They can be quite attractive and accentuate your *ahem* assets.

Can you take a pic with your costume on? I'm not a great designer but alot of other Bhuzzers are. They could help you decide on something absolutely outstanding and unique for you.

Originally Posted by sabrinabellydancer

This is what I do for all my modern lycra skirts with elastic + zipper waist bands (I never trust an elastic waistband for a skirt with no belt on stage!)

1. Remove elastic from casing
2. Measure the circumference of where you want the skirt to sit on your hips. Add 4 inches.
3. Cut a double length of grosgrain ribbon sewn together into a single length
or a single length of polyester webbing (like used for luggage straps, belts, etc.) It comes in lots of colors to prevent peek-through coloring under strong stage lights

4. With the skirt ON YOUR BODY start pining the webbing or doubled ribbon at the start of the side of the zipper. Pin it all the way around on the inside of the skirt waist band to the other side of the zipper. Doing this on the body eliminates guess work with the amount of stretch needed. The extra few inches will form a small overlap on the inside. This can be secured with a strong hook for extra security.
5. Baste the webbing to the skirt.
6. Put it back on and jump up and down :p
7. If it stays up well, sew it down for real. I hand stitch to protect the beading.
8. I always put a safety pin across the zipper horizontally, from the inside, under the zipper pull if there is any question that the zipper might pull down on stage, just from movement or the designer using a low quality zipper.

Hope this helps.

These are GREAT directions. (I particularly like step 6.)

Originally Posted by tigerb

These are GREAT directions. (I particularly like step 6.)

Thanks. #6 is the true litmus test :)