Thread: help making my silk skirt not fray! and matching a veil color?

Alright so I finally bit the bullet and branched out from making my usual velvet bedlahs to an all silk, Sahar-style minimalist skirt (I'll think about the bra style once the skirt is made). The skirt is minimalist in cut, and has a slit up one thigh. Unfortunately, the silk along the slit is fraying. I have tried to machine hem, hand roll hem, and fray check, but they all give it a stiff/heavy feel to the fabric and the silk no longer "flows" when I move. I'm contemplating pinking shears, even though this may create those noticeable triangles... thoughts? alternatives?

Also, it's camel colored with a slight watermark... almost a subtle leopard print that fades into a medium gold/sand... thoughts on a veil color? I was thinking red, turquoise, white, or a rich purple? maybe even an emerald? but i'd really love something with a gradient (prefer the look while veil is moving as opposed to a solid)... suggestions?

I'm afraid I can't help with the skirt because I don't sew..but for veil choices I'd go with a burgundy/nude two tone..I've dyed them in the past and the dancers loved it..that or a dark pink to nude color gradient..i'm also thinking a dark chocolate swirl with a touch of copper and mahogany would be pretty too

good luck on the skirt..

I would singe the edges. Practice first with fabric that isn't your skirt. Light a candle and quickly run the edge above the tip of the flame. It will melt the fabric a little, locking the threads down.

But does that work on silk? Does silk really melt?

Originally Posted by SpicyThai

I would singe the edges. Practice first with fabric that isn't your skirt. Light a candle and quickly run the edge above the tip of the flame. It will melt the fabric a little, locking the threads down.

No, natural fibers like silk will not melt! They will just burn without stopping the fraying!

It sounds like the slit is probably cut across the bias (in other words, not parallel to the warp or weft threads), in which case it is going to be nearly impossible to get it to stabilize and not continuously fray.

Did you try hemming it with a regular machine or a serger? A serger adds alot of bulk IMO because it uses more thread.

A handrolled or machined hem (regular machine) should not add so much bulk as to ruin the drape and movement of the material. It might be a little stiff at first but relax after the skirt has been worn a bit.

Actually, as I learned on the Martha Stewart show this week (of all places) when an instructor from the Fashion Institute of Technology demonstrated a project, singing silk can be a way to prevent fraying. And, it makes some sense: The fibers won't melt, but when singed at the right temperature, will get kinda frizzy, like the hair that gets caught in the hair dryer. Whether that is sufficiently effective and strong for a chameuse dance skirt cut on the bias is a bit doubtful, though.

My backup plan would be interfacing. There is a super soft and silky iron-on interfacing I just found at JoAnn that could work. I have not yet tried how it changes the hand of silk, so this needs to be tried out first.

If OP says just sewing is making it stiff- putting interfacing on it definitely going to make it flow weird.

I would just do it by hand- or do a small line line or zigzag and deal with it. You're the only one who is going to notice the difference with a skirt like that I suspect. A more flowing skirt- probably more noticeable but not a straight skirt not so much.

What if you zigzag or serge the hem, then turn it and hem that under? The only other thing I can think of would be to reinforce the edges with ribbon, but that would be a different look and it would stiffen the edges, too.

I will try the candle on some scraps when I get home. I guess pinking shears are not an option? I figured that I'd rather have barely notice-able little triangles at the slit and keep the flow of silk instead of a handrolled hem? But if pinking is only temporary and insufficient for a skirt while dancing and handrolling will relax, maybe I should opt for the original handroll? I don't know anything about pinking shears so if anyone with some knowledge could post, that would be great!

Thanks for the veil color recommendations! I will have to decide once the entire costume is done.

RE pinking shears: I haven't actually tried it, but my guess is that it would work fine IF you are cutting with the grain. If you are cutting either on a curve (like the edge of a circle skirt), or on a bias cut, I think it might not keep the threads from unraveling.

So, what kind of cut is it? If it is with the grain, you shouldn't even need the pinking shears. You should be able to stabilize the edge by sliding the loose threads out parallel to the direction they lay in the fabric. If you pull them perpendicular to how they lay in the fabric, they tend to just pull a few more threads loose from below, so the unraveling just continues.

Um, i'm not exactly sure. it is cut mostly perpendicular to the edge of the fabric (which doesnt fray) but I curved it ever so slightly at the bottom to get a little less of an open slit... does that help?

In lieu of pinking shears there's also scissors that make wavy edges plus other designs. I bought a 3-pack that includes wavy, staggered pyramids and another I cannot recall at the present time. I found the 3-pack on Ebay. They are actually promoted for use in scrap-booking but I also use them for fabric, posters, gift cards, birthday cards, announcements, etc.

I saw a dancer accidentally brush a silk veil on a lightbulb, it actually melted a hole in the fabric. Thankfully it was close to the edge so she was able to cut down the size and utilize the veil. Apparently an earlier poster has experienced silk fraying after exposure to a flame.

Originally Posted by Basha

If OP says just sewing is making it stiff- putting interfacing on it definitely going to make it flow weird.

Yeah, regular interfacing is certainly too stiff, you're of course absolutely right. However, there is one kind that feels almost like 6mm silk, with a nicely soft hand and flow. It is very expensive (I think it was $8/yard for narrow fabric), and I have only seen it in white.Mighty cool stuff, and I got a small piece it to have it handy for emergencies when I need to fix floaty silk.

oooh where did you get it? It probably wont work with this costume but I'd be interested in purchasing some just to keep on hand?

I got it at JoAnn Fabrics. I am afraid I do not recall the exact name for it, but if you check at your local store, if they have it in stock, chances are you will recognize it when you see it. Wish I could be more useful ...

If you can, show us a photo of the skirt. It may give people some further ideas.

Originally Posted by steffib

Yeah, regular interfacing is certainly too stiff, you're of course absolutely right. However, there is one kind that feels almost like 6mm silk, with a nicely soft hand and flow. It is very expensive (I think it was $8/yard for narrow fabric), and I have only seen it in white.Mighty cool stuff, and I got a small piece it to have it handy for emergencies when I need to fix floaty silk.

I think I've seen it- but at 8/yard- I'm way to much of a cheap ass to go for that- I totally in the "galloping horse" crowd. Hence- I'll just put a hand rolled hem on it if I"m feeling super motivated. :D

If you have access to a serger- try a 2-thread rolled hem. It isn't as bulky as the regular overlock stitch. I've used it on my 5mm silk veils and it gives a nice edge without effecting the "float" of the fabric in a noticeable way.

No serger... I've been meaning to get one but haven't ponied up the dough... guess it may be time!

I know they are really expensive....any chance someone you know has one you can use, or would be willing to hem it for you?

As an FYI if you do buy one, you may need to get a separate little attachment for doing rolled hems. It changes the way the lower needle feeds the thread into the presser foot. I'm not sure if all sergers are this way, but mine is- at least for the 2 thread hem, for the 3 thread rolled hem, I can't remember. Its quite old, however, and newer models may be different.

Originally Posted by rya_amal

If you have access to a serger- try a 2-thread rolled hem. It isn't as bulky as the regular overlock stitch. I've used it on my 5mm silk veils and it gives a nice edge without effecting the "float" of the fabric in a noticeable way.

Wish my serger would do a 2-thread rolled hem. There aren't that many out there that do, unless you want to drop a lot of dough.

I personally would not pink it, it would lead to a very fuzzy edge (as the tips points will likely fray). I like using tiny rolled hem feet on the machine for fine fabrics like this. You can get them as narrow as 2mm for some machines. I will mention though, that if there is a curve to it, it might ripple a tiny bit there (or even lettuce edge if its a more pronounced curve). But I think its better than leaving it unhemmed.

Fabric cut on bias often frays less than when cut on or near grain.
Have you considered overcasting by hand and then a blind stitch, again by hand?

Originally Posted by rya_amal

I know they are really expensive....any chance someone you know has one you can use, or would be willing to hem it for you?

As an FYI if you do buy one, you may need to get a separate little attachment for doing rolled hems. It changes the way the lower needle feeds the thread into the presser foot. I'm not sure if all sergers are this way, but mine is- at least for the 2 thread hem, for the 3 thread rolled hem, I can't remember. Its quite old, however, and newer models may be different.

go to a sew and vac place- they have referbished ones for cheap usually- I've been meaning to start my search so I can keep my eyes open for one- I just did six 4 yard pantaloons- man I would have killed for a serger- straight seam followed by folded over zig-zag... yeah- I would have been happy with a serger!