Thread: Making a bra from scratch?

Dose anyone know of a nice bra pattern to make a costume bra out of?

I don't really like the bras yo can get here in stores and usually ones in my size have VAST amounts of padding.

I'd like to cut the middle man out and make my own bra cups for dance (I dont wear underwire or molded cup bras anyways) any suggestions?

Funnily enough, I'm just about to teach a course on how to make costume bras! For burlesque rather than bellydancing, but the concepts are the same.
Bra Maker Supplies has some excellent patterns, including a fantastic moulded cup bra pattern (which is difficult to come by), and they sell all the supplies you will need.

I am trying right now. It would be cool if we both could report back with how it goes

The costume makers on here that are great at building their own bra bases are somewhat secretive about the process, which I totally understand.

This is how far I've come. It's a double layer of thick fusable interfacing fused together.


I have the pattern somewhere here on my desk under loads of stuff

Sew Sassy is another resource, and they're located in the US. Lingerie Fabrics, Bra Supplies, Lycra® - Sew Sassy Fabrics.

If you are interested in bra construction, there are forums online that discuss the details. (I'd suggest one, but I've only visited, never participated.) There are also a few commercially made patterns for home sewing on the market. Kwik Sew is usually the most available brand KWIK SEW - Catalogue. Depending on the style of bra you want, you might also be able to adapt a swimsuit pattern.

Most of the bra-making information out there now is about everyday or special-occasion lingerie, and a lot of it will incorporate stretch fabrics and modern components like underwires and pre-molded cups. If you are imagining making one of those older-style Egyptian battleships, you might actually find it worth the time to comb vintage pattern vendors to find a pattern that was designed before stretch fabrics became the standard for bra making. Whatever you decide, make a few test runs first, before cutting into the good fabric. There's usually a lot of trial and error involved before you settle on a final fit.

I buy a regular bra, foam cups w/ under wire, that fits well. I cut all the straps and cut the top of bra to the shape and size I like. I reinforce the top of the bra with grosgrain, saw on new straps,sometimes cut the cups apart and cover it with fabric. It works well and the cups are comfy and fit me. I will try to post some pictures later.

Okay, I couldn't even find patterns that work for me, so I experimented a bit and came up with my own process for a custom fit bra- I started to post it here, but it wouldn't fit, so I put it over on my blog (to be converted to an official article on the main website later!)

Alaska Awalim: requested bra cup making instructions...

You might want to contact Kamal at Horus and Isis at https://horusandisis.com/bellydance/contact_us.html about whether he still imports the Egyptian hard-shell bra cups for costume making. You can then add your own straps, bands, etc.

The difficulty about making your own cups is that boobs are curved and interfacing is flat. Gisela's example is very similiar to the way Sugar Petals makes their costume cups (which you can buy online), and it's as close as you can easily get to making flat interfacing or buckram conform to the curves of your boobs.

Personally, I'm not a fan of that type of cup. I'm using them right now in my current project - Shushanna Designs: The Half-Made Blue Faux-Bella. But no matter what you do, they will be pointy.

That's why I really love using a couple bra bases available on the market. I talk about in detail on Shushanna Designs: Bases for Bras. I have a couple other pages that you might also find helpful as well, about attaching straps and covering the bra.

Good luck! ;-)
~Shushanna

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

older-style Egyptian battleships

LOVE this!

So could you say a B-cup is a Battleship, and a D-cup is a Destroyer?

I really, really want to be able to make bra cups from scratch and NOT from a bought bra. I so rarely find bras that fit, so when they do they are usually pretty expensive and I would rather keep them and use them for everyday use. The cups I made so far are pretty much like the ones in my Eman and Noussa costumes and those fit me wonderfully and don't look very pointy. Hopefully I will be able to make some good straps. Especially the angles and placement I find a bit difficult.

I have to agree with Sushanna- I tried and wound up with... I don't know what it was- it was a disaster.

I have used cups for two different bra's- or maybe just one- I know I bought cups for two but i only have one that I have right now- so I can't remember if it was one or two- anyway- I bought the swim cups from JoAnna's - I have had to reinforce them with wire and I'm still really not happy with my bra shape only because it isn't as reinforced and its not holding its shape the way I would expect.

But if you find success- please share it!

shameless plug alert:

If you will make your own cups, make sure they are sturdy. Decorations weight down costume bras more than your average street wear bra. Underwires hold the shape of the cup and provide support.

If you would like a book that teaches you to make a costume bra from scratch, please check out my book, "Build A Better Bra"
Build A Better Bra - Costume Construction Manual - Book

/endShamelessBookPlug

my friend Toria is just starting a business where she is a costume parts supplier, and she is making a modern Egyptian style hard cup bra base you can buy, add straps to, cover and decorate. I just tried one on yesterday and they are quite flattering.

She also is supplying those giant AB crystals as well as sundry other costume making supplies.

I think she is the works of making a website for her business, but in the meantime, you can contact her here:

Toria | Professional Belly Dancer

:-)

i build costumes for myself and most of my dancers we start with the fredericks hollywood back closing eXtreem clevelge..i like it because the pads are removable so i can sew the straps right to the cup. the center has NO elastic. i prefer the product to other brands because they make product for drag queens ..it holds up well!

Just curious- would anyone mind following the link I posted above & letting me know if the instructions are clear? I do intend to put up pictures eventually, but I haven't had time. I want to know if this is valuable to anyone, or if it is impossible to follow without in person guidance. A lot of the options posted on this thread are simply impractical for unusual cup sizes, and there's been a good response from folks doing the local workshops, I just don't know how it translates long distance or how clear my directions are.

Has anyone tried using a kwik sew bra pattern? Or are they not suitable because they use stretch fabrics? Lara L - I just had a quick read through and it seems to make sense Id have to give it a try though to see if there are any blank spots.

Originally Posted by Lara L

Just curious- would anyone mind following the link I posted above & letting me know if the instructions are clear? I do intend to put up pictures eventually, but I haven't had time. I want to know if this is valuable to anyone, or if it is impossible to follow without in person guidance. A lot of the options posted on this thread are simply impractical for unusual cup sizes, and there's been a good response from folks doing the local workshops, I just don't know how it translates long distance or how clear my directions are.

I'm a pretty verbal, wordsy person but even so, I found your instructions difficult to follow without some visual cues. I suspect the instructions work fine if they are a back-up or reminder of a workshop that you've already given, so that people have the visuals in their own head already, but for someone who is reading them for the first time, it's hard to follow, without pictures to help make sense of them.

Also, it's quite an intensive set of words with no breaks between each set of instructions, so that again makes it a hard read. Something as simple as putting a line break between each set of instructions would make it easier on the brain.

Hi Lara, thank you for generously sharing your "recipe". I am a very visual person so I am having a hard time following your description. This'd need some sketches or photos for clarity.

Thank you! I promise to work on it more this week... wish I had a faster connection speed, it takes me forever to upload photos, so I have to set aside a good chunk of time!

Originally Posted by alibellySA

Has anyone tried using a kwik sew bra pattern? Or are they not suitable because they use stretch fabrics?

Kwik Sew 2489 is supposed to be for wovens. I don't have it, but I have this vintage Simplicity pattern and I've worked with it 1940s PIN UP GLAM TAP PANTIES, BRA PATTERN SIMPLICITY 4994. Having used other Kwik Sew patterns before, I expect that the pattern markings and instructions are much clearer than the old Simplicity one. The main issue I encountered is that you had better be a good fitter (or lucky guesser) in terms of pattern size, or be very patient about redoing. Unlike going into a store where you can try on multiple bras until you find one you like, if you're sewing a pattern and you chose the wrong size or style, you may be starting over from the beginning.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

The main issue I encountered is that you had better be a good fitter (or lucky guesser) in terms of pattern size, or be very patient about redoing. Unlike going into a store where you can try on multiple bras until you find one you like, if you're sewing a pattern and you chose the wrong size or style, you may be starting over from the beginning.

Even if you "know" what size you need, what you find in a store and what is made from the pattern may be two completely different things.
You are far better off to make up a "toile" in just some cheap fabric, to check the fit of the cup against th breast, and to make sure the seam line centres over the nipple. It should take less than 1/2 an hour, but it will save you so much time unpicking or resewing.

Originally Posted by shems

my friend Toria is just starting a business where she is a costume parts supplier, and she is making a modern Egyptian style hard cup bra base you can buy, add straps to, cover and decorate. I just tried one on yesterday and they are quite flattering.

She also is supplying those giant AB crystals as well as sundry other costume making supplies.

I think she is the works of making a website for her business, but in the meantime, you can contact her here:

Toria | Professional Belly Dancer

:-)

Thanks Shems The website is Create Your shine | Create Your shine These are hard shell bras, like the Egyptian ones.

If you are interested in draping a bra from your own breast shape, Stuart Anderson has a great guide(warning - NSFW).

I went to wrok and totally forgot I asked this! WOW! Thank you all for all your help, I will definatly post pictures of what i come up with! Which hopefully will work and not end up being a look how much I messed up post!

Well, Sithraviel, if worst comes to worst, you can always post here asking for help if you get stuck - I'm sure that plenty of people would be happy to help out!
Good luck!