Thread: Madame X Ghawazee Coat Pattern - Used it? Liked It/

I'm debating making a ghawazee coat with this pattern rather than ordering a ghawazee coat from L. Rose. Only because it would give us more opportunity for customization. Has anyone used this pattern?

I used the Madame X trumpet skirt pattern and it ended up being much larger than I expected. I might have done something wrong.

I know on some sewing sites, people compare notes on patterns. Just looking for any tips or advice from others who have used it!

I was in a troupe that tested this pattern when it was in development in 2000, so my experience may be out of touch with what you would be buying. The pattern we worked with ran very large. One of our dancers was petite (around a size 4), and even using the smallest size, I think she said she cut over a foot out of the circumference of the bodice. If you are not an advanced seamstress and/or you don't have experience with Madame X's adjustable beledi dress pattern, it can be easy to guess the wrong size and overshoot. You want enough slack to have something to take up with the lacing, but not so much that you're folding up wads of fabric. This is definitely a case where it's wise to make a quick hack with muslin before cutting into the good brocade.

Our group wanted contrast lining in the sleeves, and the test version did not have that feature, so we freestyled it. Otherwise, the instructions were straightforward. The pattern is set up for woven fabrics, so if you want to use stretch fabric like the L. Rose design, more freestyling may need to ensue. Xenia herself was very pleasant to work with.

If you're not specifically looking for the adjustability laces, have you seen Simplicity 2159? Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

If you're not specifically looking for the adjustability laces, have you seen Simplicity 2159? Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes

Thanks - the adjustable lacing definitely adds some complexity that I don't need!

Originally Posted by Nepenthe

I'm debating making a ghawazee coat with this pattern rather than ordering a ghawazee coat from L. Rose. Only because it would give us more opportunity for customization. Has anyone used this pattern?

I used the Madame X trumpet skirt pattern and it ended up being much larger than I expected. I might have done something wrong.

I know on some sewing sites, people compare notes on patterns. Just looking for any tips or advice from others who have used it!

I had the same exact problem with the trumpet skirt patterns. It was about 5 inches too long on the top and WAAY too wide. It took me a few hours to fix. Not sure about their sizing formula, plus I was expecting a multi-size pattern that worked liked conventional multi-size patterns (like McCall's)

Originally Posted by Nepenthe

Thanks - the adjustable lacing definitely adds some complexity that I don't need!

The lacings aren't terribly difficult. She does them by looping tracks of ribbons, which is faster than making individual buttonholes. Of course, you need to take the time to measure carefully and baste the ribbon in place to get a good result. If you try to take shortcuts by eyeballing and pinning, YMMV on the symmetry of the end product.

Used it once - hated it. Sizing is waaaay out.

I've recently acquired this pattern and immediately thought it looked large. I was thinking of sewing the panels together without the lacings and have only a front opening and what was it about the pattern that was all wrong? care to share?

Originally Posted by mim

I've recently acquired this pattern and immediately thought it looked large. I was thinking of sewing the panels together without the lacings and have only a front opening

You could, but the lacings give the coat its shape. Unless you want it boxy, you'll probably have to dart the bodice or recut the seams.

and what was it about the pattern that was all wrong? care to share?

Not sure who you're hoping will answer this... I only know of the problems I listed (sizing ran really large, didn't have instructions for contrast sleeve linings, and not suitable for stretch fabrics if you want that style).

[QUOTE=Tourbeau;921267]You could, but the lacings give the coat its shape. Unless you want it boxy, you'll probably have to dart the bodice or recut the seams.

thanks Tourbeau, sorry but what I meant was, cut off completely the excess where the lace is intended all the way to the hem so it would have a new seam there instead, unless of course I cut the fabric as one panel and yep I wouldn't use stretch fabric.
will try it on cheap fabric at first attempt.

I remember eons ago the atira? patterns ran very small and my first attempt would fit a nine year old, very frustrating.