Thread: Simplicity Patterns

Well, I thought I had learned my lesson after making that simplicity pattern for the doesn't move, can't-raise-your-arms choli, but maybe not :D I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with This: Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes pattern. Really, I just want to make a cover-up to wear before and after performances, so it doesn't have to actually be dancable, but I'd like to be able to move around comfortably. I'd go with the overbust design(no point in showing off that new bra too soon!), and I might leave armpit holes for additional movement. I love the neckline on the overbust version, I'm just so suspicious of any belly dance patterns not made for belly dancers. I'm thinking I might also make it a little big, then add corset-y laces to the back, to make it more versatile if I gain or lose weight (Let's pray for lose!).

Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions?
Any experience with this pattern?

Thanks all!!!

I haven't used it- I actually got a bathrobe pattern to use essentially but never got around to it. It looks pretty!

From what I understand you can make a cover up with rectangles- two for the front- a wide one from the back and then two for the shoulders- it doesn't need to be perfect because its just for draping anyway.

I got a hooded abaya from east essence on sale- it's beautiful and perfect- that's an option as well.

My winter cover up is actually the Trinty coat from the Matrix- I get compliments EVERYWHERE on it! My mom made it for me and its great for winter- but way to heavy for summer- hence the addition of the abaya!

The Ghawazee style is pretty, but it's nice to have a coverup that isn't quite that fitted, and covers the bottom half of your costume more completely. It may be difficult to predict what gigs and costumes you'll have in the future, so it's nice to build a little flexibility into the design. You may find yourself wearing a folkloric costume that would get wrinkled under such a coat (e.g., a Fifi galabeya), and if you ever have to go to your gig dressed, it may be a mess to wrangle those flaps and a full skirt getting into a car.

Personally, I'd go with something like the robe variation of Simplicity 4048 Womens Nightgown, Pajamas and Robe Sewing Pattern 4048, Butterick 4406 Misses'/Misses' Petite Jacket, Robe, Top, Tunic and Pants | Family Sleepwear | Butterick Patterns, or Butterick 5152 Misses' Robe and Belt | Family Sleepwear | Butterick Patterns in a non-nightgown-y fabric. You could also look in the costume section for cloak patterns. My coverup was made from a (now out-of-print) New Look nightgown pattern, and it's cut like a choir robe that opens down the front. I've never regretted that it's roomy instead of formfitting.

A good cover up should open down the front, because it's awkward to pull a cover up off over your head. It should have at least one large pocket and preferably two. Even better if the pockets can be secured shut, with velcro or a zipper or flap with snaps, so there's less risk of stuff falling out of the pockets.

A roomy cover up is more comfortable than a snug cover up. A too-snug cover-up can make it hard to bend, reach or move around.

I started with Simplicity 8895 / 0688 a couple sizes larger than usual. I split it down the front and added a zipper and a large patch pocket. I made mine out of plain muslin. I used an old brown sheet for the front piece and pocket, and sewed cheap cowrie "leis" on as trim.

I would hesitate to use the Simplicity Ghawazee coat pattern for a cover up, because it looks quite snug and fitted. But some of the elements be incorporated into a cover up based on a caftan or bath robe pattern, like slitting the bottom into four separate panels or swapping the robe sleeves for the Ghawazee sleeves.

I third using a bathrobe pattern. I found a brown on brown "ethnic" cotton fabric at Joanns. It fits loose enough to cover me even when I'm wearing 2 - 25 yard tiered skirts. There are sewn on outside ties and a set of inside ties so no falling open and no snagging a zipper on fragile fabric or bare skin! It's not the warmest in winter, but I can toss a winter coat over it or layer a sweater or hoodie underneath. It is ok except for the worst weather in summer. If I could go back I would add pockets and a deep hood so I could cover my hair when it's raining.

Originally Posted by mahlikadance

Well, I thought I had learned my lesson after making that simplicity pattern for the doesn't move, can't-raise-your-arms choli, but maybe not :

psst - try adding gussests to the armpits!

I like using a cape because even if I have multiple skirts on, it still fits. It's also not genre specific so I can use no matter what style I happen to be dancing in. I also like that it is very practical in that I can layer if need be and it still look like I am wearing a cape (as opposed to something tied on loosely over multiple skirts and coin belts which makes me look like a bologna ;) )

Originally Posted by kemintiri

I like using a cape because even if I have multiple skirts on, it still fits. It's also not genre specific so I can use no matter what style I happen to be dancing in. I also like that it is very practical in that I can layer if need be and it still look like I am wearing a cape (as opposed to something tied on loosely over multiple skirts and coin belts which makes me look like a bologna ;) )

I agree, capes are awesome. Plus they fit with the GP mind-set re both mystique and classic beauty.

I dont' think I've ever seen a dance wearing a cape... What kind of cape are we talking about?
Does it cover the front of you? (I'm assuming yes?) Does anyone have some pics of the kind of thing that you mean?

Currently I use a large caftan which pulls over the head(yuck). I was also looking for something a little more flattering.

Do you mean "never seen a dancer" with a cape or "never seen a dance" with a cape.

because well- you typically only see dances with capes in the goth world- or a fusion/story peice. and it is usually only used for the first intro of the song.

But occasionally you will see a cape as a cover up- just a regular you know- red riding hood cape or cloak. I picked up a pattern (I know I could do it on my own but having a pattern is nice I find and at .99cents it wasn't an issue). One of these day's I'm going to pick up some wool or something and whip one up- I LOVED my mom's cloak -I used to steal it all the time- it was effing gorgous. Heavy black wool on the back and a beautiful teal satin lining- my dad made a neck liner from one of the black fox he nabbed in Alaska- it was a sweet cloak.

Originally Posted by Basha

Do you mean "never seen a dancer" with a cape or "never seen a dance" with a cape.

because well- you typically only see dances with capes in the goth world- or a fusion/story peice. and it is usually only used for the first intro of the song.

Back in the day, some dancers used to do a fusion style of veil that was reminiscent of Paso Doble capework. For some reason I want to associate it with Bert, but it might have been Kamaal or someone else. This clip is Latin ballroom, but you can see it wouldn't be a huge leap to change the music and tweak the choreography to add some Middle Eastern flavor.

I suppose I've never seen a dance OR a dancer in a cape :D But it seems to me that your standard LRRH cape would be open in the front and show off you're whole costume, wouldn't it?

Originally Posted by mahlikadance

I dont' think I've ever seen a dance wearing a cape... What kind of cape are we talking about?
Does it cover the front of you? (I'm assuming yes?) Does anyone have some pics of the kind of thing that you mean?

Currently I use a large caftan which pulls over the head(yuck). I was also looking for something a little more flattering.

How 'bout a burnous as a coverup? Geographically pretty apt, even -- and it has a big hood, so you could be the Dancer of Mystery.

You could even decorate it fabulously -- like the superduper museum piece here (if you're...very ambitious):
Noblesse & Royautés » Le burnous de Napoléon I à l’exposition «*Treasures from the Royal collection*»

Or this one, made for a European child, but highly covetable:
Image - V&A Museum of Childhood

(the front has large gold frog closures. With the right fabric/notions, this one seems possible for modern adaptation.)

Atira's has a burnous pattern:
Amazon.com: Badawia's Burnoose Cloak Pattern (Belly Dance): Arts, Crafts & Sewing

As does Folkwear:
Birch Steet Clothing : The Caravan/Ethnic Collection / Moroccan Burnoose

I just used that Simplicity pattern for part of a Halloween/Fest costume (yeah, I know, it's totally not period. I just needed something to stay warm in the morning).
It's a simple pattern, really easy to do.
The only issue I had with it is that the flounce was so long. It made my tiny tyrannosaurus arms look even more puny.
But I like the feel. It's very comfortable. I made a second, more toned-down version; it's black on black, no flounce. I'll bling it up eventually. :)

ETA:
I made the underbust style - pattern B, I think.

Originally Posted by Tourbeau

Back in the day, some dancers used to do a fusion style of veil that was reminiscent of Paso Doble capework. For some reason I want to associate it with Bert, but it might have been Kamaal or someone else. This clip is Latin ballroom, but you can see it wouldn't be a huge leap to change the music and tweak the choreography to add some Middle Eastern flavor.

Oh you are so right
I forgot about spanish inspired peices. Yes absoluetly. My treacher went through a really big flamenco phase and did a cool peice with our flameco teacher.

fun stuff. I like the vertical figure eight he draws in front of himself with the cape- great clip... I had completely forgotten that genra!

<facepalm>

On the subject of Simplicity paterns - what ARE the thoughts on the 'Bellydance" simplicity patterns? I think there's about three of them now?

There's the:
Womens Belly Dance Costume Sewing Pattern 2941 Simplicity
A 'Cabaret' look

Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes
Another "Cabaret" look that looks well, like a sewn-at-home for the first time bellydance costume

Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes
The Gwazhee Coats

Womens Belly Dancing Costume Sewing Pattern 5359 Simplicity
And at least, in cover design, a more vaguely ethnic looking set.

I'm not advocating any of these for professional costumes - but what has been your experience with them?

I tend to buy these patterns when they come out and are on sale, but rarely make them up for full costumes per their intentions. I would say, very guardedly, that they have potential, especially if you are talking about student troupes or someone looking for a retro American look. As a whole, they don't look anything like "real" costumes that most serious dancers would wear. Still, there's nothing wrong with using them as a starting point for another design, or for making skirts and harem pants to flesh out a wardrobe to go with bought bra/belt sets. I did experiment with using the belt base in 2941 (same deal with 2158), and I didn't like that it was made for tying in back, so I had to modify it for the traditional overlap-and-hooks type of closure. The bras are too far off the mark for my taste to even entertain the idea.

Originally Posted by Minajen

On the subject of Simplicity paterns - what ARE the thoughts on the 'Bellydance" simplicity patterns? I think there's about three of them now?

I'm not advocating any of these for professional costumes - but what has been your experience with them?

I have bought the Ghawazee pattern with the intent of adapting it for a Turkish vest (I had a thread about it somewhere) but haven't done so yet -- otoh, looking at the pattern pieces and instructions, it looks straightforward and dance-appropriate. Can't comment more than that on it.

One thing that gets me looking at those cover illustrations is this: some of what looks missing-the-mark *might* be the materials and decorations (then again, I find myself generally not liking the use of fabric-store tassel trims on bras; they look a little too disproportionately big and homemade, and frankly like...your bosom has been upholstered to resemble an ottoman. But that is my own aesthetic sense). I would also like to see them show the styles on a range of body types, because I wouldn't know what those hip-scarves would look like on someone with wider hips, and so on -- the effect could be very different with different proportions, for better or worse.

Originally Posted by Minajen

On the subject of Simplicity paterns - what ARE the thoughts on the 'Bellydance" simplicity patterns? I think there's about three of them now?

There's the:
Womens Belly Dance Costume Sewing Pattern 2941 Simplicity
A 'Cabaret' look

This one looks like a combination of pieces from Atira/Jehlor patterns that Artemis Imports carries Artemis Imports, specifically Nagwas tops, Tahias belts and Parvenehs Panels. I have many of the Atira/Jehlor patterns and they run extremely small. On the other hand, they were designed to allow more freedom of movement than the average commercial costume pattern.

Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes
Another "Cabaret" look that looks well, like a sewn-at-home for the first time bellydance costume

I'd rather see dancers running around in "sewn at home for the first time" bras like this, than running around in a Wal-Mart bra with hot glued sequins.
[/QUOTE]

Simplicity Creative Group -
Misses' Costumes
The Gwazhee Coats

I haven't made this one yet, but **IF** the shoulders & sleeves are cut to allow the arms to move easily over head, then this one is pretty nice. The sleeve flounce and 4 panel split at the bottom remind me of the gorgeous coats from Velvet Peacock Ghawazee Coat - Tribal Fusion Bellydance - Coin Bras, Tassel Belts & Fringe Belts - Tribal BellyDance costumes, Gypsy BellyDance Costumes, Ghawazee Coats

Womens Belly Dancing Costume Sewing Pattern 5359 Simplicity
And at least, in cover design, a more vaguely ethnic looking set.

I'm not advocating any of these for professional costumes - but what has been your experience with them?

I made the short sleeved version of this top in a stretch velvet. The sides tend to ride up a bit when the arms are lifted overhead because it's based on an ordinary top pattern. Cutting the shoulder hole deeper and adding a gusset fixed the problem, but I can see how that would be a big issue for the inexperienced seamstress tackling her first dance top.

Originally Posted by Tiziri

One thing that gets me looking at those cover illustrations is this: some of what looks missing-the-mark *might* be the materials and decorations (then again, I find myself generally not liking the use of fabric-store tassel trims on bras; they look a little too disproportionately big and homemade, and frankly like...your bosom has been upholstered to resemble an ottoman. But that is my own aesthetic sense). I would also like to see them show the styles on a range of body types, because I wouldn't know what those hip-scarves would look like on someone with wider hips, and so on -- the effect could be very different with different proportions, for better or worse.

I agree! Check out the link to Velvet Peacock in my other post, you'll see the coat in different fabrics and and modeled with a coin covered bra.

As for the upholstery tassels, well, the RIGHT tassel in the RIGHT color, used with restraint, can look Ok. But layers of tassels in the wrong colors or styles looks, well, wrong <G>

Originally Posted by nitewindz

I agree! Check out the link to Velvet Peacock in my other post, you'll see the coat in different fabrics and and modeled with a coin covered bra.

As for the upholstery tassels, well, the RIGHT tassel in the RIGHT color, used with restraint, can look Ok. But layers of tassels in the wrong colors or styles looks, well, wrong <G>

Oh, that Velvet Peacock coat set is really pretty -- and yeah, it's the same base pattern, or one quite like it.

I agree about it being a matter of the right tassels -- where it looks skewed to me (beyond color) is that often the tassels (and other trims) on bras look a little too proportionately big for a bra, and there's where you get the "upholstered bosom" look. With wee tassels and proportionately-sized trim, it can look quite nice (I note that the tassels on the top on the right on the last linked pattern look pretty good. They're proportionate to the top.)

One other issue with using upholstery tassels is that the market is mostly dominated by a narrow assortment of product lines that may be recognizable to audiences. You can find the right color and size tassels for your costume, but it's still sort of a problem if someone sees you and thinks, "Oh, that's the same Waverly trim Aunt Martha used when she re-covered her footstool!" You need to be selective. Choose embellishments for your costume that look like they might belong on clothes, and attach them in ways that don't remind people of furniture.

Tourbeau, very good point.

(and probably why I have that association with so many such trimmed bras: you might want to evoke the Ottoman Empire in your costuming, but not the ottoman in the living room...)

Originally Posted by Basha

Oh you are so right
I forgot about spanish inspired peices. Yes absoluetly. My treacher went through a really big flamenco phase and did a cool peice with our flameco teacher.

fun stuff. I like the vertical figure eight he draws in front of himself with the cape- great clip... I had completely forgotten that genra!

<facepalm>

My first teacher did/does this too! Not exclusively for Spanish-inspired pieces either... She did a wonderful version of a multiple veil routine (I'd say 7 veils, but it was more like ten or however many she could hold, wrap, tie, fit on her body!) that started out with a full-length cape.

I've made smaller 3/4 circle capes/veils using inexpensive costume satin -- it has enough weight to make those fig 8s fill out (I did a self-enclosed hem which may have also added weight and looks nicer than a plain serged edge; fold up 1/4", fold 1/4" again and stitch). Circle = roughly three feet radius. That's how I started learning double veil; it was actually double 3/4 cape!

Definitely a different feel, and required speed, than silk veils, but a beautiful prop in its own right. Good arm workout if the fabric is heavy...

Originally Posted by Minajen

On the subject of Simplicity paterns - what ARE the thoughts on the 'Bellydance" simplicity patterns? I think there's about three of them now?

There's the:
Womens Belly Dance Costume Sewing Pattern 2941 Simplicity
A 'Cabaret' look

Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes
Another "Cabaret" look that looks well, like a sewn-at-home for the first time bellydance costume

Simplicity Creative Group - Misses' Costumes
The Gwazhee Coats

Womens Belly Dancing Costume Sewing Pattern 5359 Simplicity
And at least, in cover design, a more vaguely ethnic looking set.

I'm not advocating any of these for professional costumes - but what has been your experience with them?

I like their pantaloon pattern, but it had to be modified (unless you like the crotch of your pants somewhere around your knees ;) ). It is the case with most of them. That being said, because there are several sizes on the pattern, they are easy to modify. (The Attira fashions patterns on the other hand require less adjustments, but can be more difficult to work with; of course YMMV)

If you have a bit of experience with patterns, they are fairly easy to work with, especially if you already have slopers in your size. (except that bra pattern. Ugh. Much easier to take an existing bra and cover it.)


HTH