Thread: mermaid skirt-sewing for dummies...

Hah! Okay, so I've thought about this long and hard and am giving up!
I realize it is probably a novice sewing question, but I suppose I've just never come across the problem.
I'm making a trumpet skirt. I made the skirt and it looks awesome, but I put slits in the front & back and wanted to insert large triangles so that it will flare a lot more than the width of the material allowed me to! It is stretch material, so the rest of the skirt was quite easy. I made my own pattern (which I do for everything...because typical patterns make me crazy...I guess I just don't think the same as the people who make them)
ANYHOW! back on topic. This triangle insert...worked great until I got to the point of the triangle. How do I sew the point in without making it look all jacked up? Do you understand what I am asking? Maybe I should be on some sort of sewing forum! haha...any suggestions for those?

I've made quite a few things and I own a serger, but when it comes to knowing typical terminology...I'm lacking. I've taught myself to sew through experimentation and the wonderful internet ...as well as a few library books. Hopefully I don't frustrate some of you seamstresses!

It's tricky but doable. My recommendation would be that as you're sewing the inset in with right sides together, you can sew up one side at a time but stop sewing before the point by the amount of your seam allowance then do the other side and tack down the point by hand. (Mark the stopping place on both skirt and gusset and match them up)
The trick is not to sew fully into the point as it gives no ease for the fabric to rest.

Always snip the seam allowance diagonally from edge to stitching - close to the stitching but careful not to cut in - and definitely cut the point off to reduce the bulk once it's stitched.

BTW, you can snip into the point of the triangle insert to create some ease for yourself before sewing.

Not sure if that makes sense. Someone else might give clearer instructions or draw it for you. I'm a terrible sketcher.

This is the trickiest part of sewing a trumpet skirt. Dani suggest of sewing one side of the gusset (triangle) at a time is good. Also, depending on the fabric (and how easy/hard it is to work with), I have occassionally hand sewn the top of the gusset (point of the triangle).

Good luck!

I've only done it once, but what worked for me, was to cut the point of the triangle off, gather it to pleat it, then sew each side from the bottom up.

Jenn, those triange inserts are tricky. The way I do it is to finish the edges of the opening on the skirt where you want your triangles and then just sew the triange onto the inside of it. That way you get the finished edge on the skirt you're looking for and a flat seam at the top since you simply sew the triange onto the wrong side of the skirt. The down side is that unless you also finish the edges of the triange, you will have raw edges on the inside of the skirt.

Also, you should start sewing at the point of your triange and do two seperate seams down each side of your triangle towards the hem. That will also keep your seams nice and flat.

thanks ladies! I'm still slightly confused. I think I will try hand sewing it. I already put the slit in and used my serger to sew up one side of it, but there's not much room for error, so going with the hand stitching sounds good!

Adishakti, I'm not sure what you mean by gather it to pleat it. I know how to gather material, but I'm not sure how that would work in the corner while still folding the raw edge of the skirt piece under??

I'm just not visualizing things here.

I think the next time I do this, I might round the top of the triangle....that way its more of an arc instead of a triangle. Anyone ever tried this? Think its a bad idea? haha. Input is always good!

Luckily I bought cheap fabric ($0.69/yard) to try this out on first. I actually really love the fabric though...it is a fuschia with a funky carpet type texture to it....but i think it will look awesome if I ever figure it out! I wanted to play around with my pattern before I messed up the pretty sparklie white stretch satin that I bought to go with my new white costume! It is a good thing I did because my estimate for hip width was way too wide and i ended up with little puckered spots on the hips! Haha... I will learn!

Originally Posted by shahla

Jenn, those triange inserts are tricky. The way I do it is to finish the edges of the opening on the skirt where you want your triangles and then just sew the triange onto the inside of it.

that's a great idea! Thanks! ....so the next question is.... how do I finish the edges at the top of the triangle? if I fold it under, the point still confuses me!

Maybe I will just use the serger and then sew sequin to it to cover up the uglies...haha I wished it were that easy.

When I created my trumpet skirt pattern I did it in sections - much like LRose. There is a center front and center back piece and then a left front and right front - left back and right back. I cut a little marker on each piece where I wanted the top of triangle to be so they would be even. I take left front piece and sew a triangle on top to bottom on the right side of the piece lined up with the marker (around knee height). Then continue to center front sewing on a triangle until all the pieces have a triangle sewn onto the right side. Then I sew each piece together top to bottom the full length of piece and triangle. Add hipband. This is very easy as it is all straight seams and the V's turn out perfect every time. Hope this made some sense.

Here's sort of what it looks like if you sew it with right sides together as opposed to how Shala recommends. At the point just pivot the fabric to match up the other side - that will be possible because you haven't sewn into the pointy part of either skirt or gusset.



Note:
For either option - test out the technique on scrap fabric. Shala's system can work great but it also can be very frustrating to get things in perfectly - particularly if you're working with two fabric weights (that applies to either technique really)

Pin, pin, pin and pin again....then baste it in.....then sew it down.

Seriously, the extra time up front will save you painstaking tearing out with seam rippers.

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

that's a great idea! Thanks! ....so the next question is.... how do I finish the edges at the top of the triangle? if I fold it under, the point still confuses me!

Maybe I will just use the serger and then sew sequin to it to cover up the uglies...haha I wished it were that easy.

I make my skirts kind of like an L Rose skirt with several panels being sewn together. Each panel is sewn together from top (hip) to wherever I want my triangle to be. I just use a plain old straight seam (no serger). When you iron your seam open, there will be whatever seam allowance you used on either side. Just continue the iron job all the way to the bottom folding the raw edge to the inside of the skirt. Then sew it with a straight seam from point to hem on either side of your triange. Then the point of your triange will be nice and flatly finished. Make sense? Then just sew your triangle onto the back of that finished edge.

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

This triangle insert...worked great until I got to the point of the triangle. How do I sew the point in without making it look all jacked up?

It's hard to be sure what you mean without seeing the actual problem, but here are a couple of ideas:

• Sew the triangle to only one side of the skirt at a time.
• Start stitching at the point of the triangle and stitch toward the hem, not vice versa.
• Trim off the tip of the triangle with a scissors to eliminate the bulk of the extra fabric.

I hope this helps!

Surida -

so that means you have seams in the gussets, right? not a horrible thing and certainly makes stitching things up a lot simpler.

oops. never mind - i now visualize what you're saying. Only works if you're doing a gored skirt, then if you want the gussets in the front or back.

Originally Posted by Surida

When I created my trumpet skirt pattern I did it in sections - much like LRose. There is a center front and center back piece and then a left front and right front - left back and right back. I cut a little marker on each piece where I wanted the top of triangle to be so they would be even. I take left front piece and sew a triangle on top to bottom on the right side of the piece lined up with the marker (around knee height). Then continue to center front sewing on a triangle until all the pieces have a triangle sewn onto the right side. Then I sew each piece together top to bottom the full length of piece and triangle. Add hipband. This is very easy as it is all straight seams and the V's turn out perfect every time. Hope this made some sense.

Originally Posted by Surida

When I created my trumpet skirt pattern I did it in sections - much like LRose. There is a center front and center back piece and then a left front and right front - left back and right back. I cut a little marker on each piece where I wanted the top of triangle to be so they would be even. I take left front piece and sew a triangle on top to bottom on the right side of the piece lined up with the marker (around knee height). Then continue to center front sewing on a triangle until all the pieces have a triangle sewn onto the right side. Then I sew each piece together top to bottom the full length of piece and triangle. Add hipband. This is very easy as it is all straight seams and the V's turn out perfect every time. Hope this made some sense.

Hey, that sounds like a great idea!

Originally Posted by shahla

I make my skirts kind of like an L Rose skirt with several panels being sewn together. Each panel is sewn together from top (hip) to wherever I want my triangle to be. I just use a plain old straight seam (no serger). When you iron your seam open, there will be whatever seam allowance you used on either side. Just continue the iron job all the way to the bottom folding the raw edge to the inside of the skirt. Then sew it with a straight seam from point to hem on either side of your triange. Then the point of your triange will be nice and flatly finished. Make sense? Then just sew your triangle onto the back of that finished edge.

okay, this is sewing ignorance. I probably don't understand what you mean by seam allowance. I know what that is, but maybe I didn't cut the slit correctly.
I literally just cut one slit into the skirt up to the knees....
so I'm not understanding how you can fold it over at the point of each side?

Originally Posted by danidance

Here's sort of what it looks like if you sew it with right sides together as opposed to how Shala recommends. At the point just pivot the fabric to match up the other side - that will be possible because you haven't sewn into the pointy part of either skirt or gusset.

This is how I did it dani...I sewed right sides together...
I'm still slightly confused with the point of this picture. Is the triangle point cut off of this? It just overlaps the slit point? So, when you go back to hand stitch it....you just have to manually fold it over again?

Originally Posted by Surida

When I created my trumpet skirt pattern I did it in sections - much like LRose. There is a center front and center back piece and then a left front and right front - left back and right back. I cut a little marker on each piece where I wanted the top of triangle to be so they would be even. I take left front piece and sew a triangle on top to bottom on the right side of the piece lined up with the marker (around knee height). Then continue to center front sewing on a triangle until all the pieces have a triangle sewn onto the right side. Then I sew each piece together top to bottom the full length of piece and triangle. Add hipband. This is very easy as it is all straight seams and the V's turn out perfect every time. Hope this made some sense.

I wanted to try it like this.... but I wasn't sure how to estimate the size of each triangle. are they all triangles of the same size? And you just use 6 of them?
either way the fuschia is already started...so I need to figure out the triangle thing or throw it away, haha.

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

okay, this is sewing ignorance. I probably don't understand what you mean by seam allowance. I know what that is, but maybe I didn't cut the slit correctly.
I literally just cut one slit into the skirt up to the knees....
so I'm not understanding how you can fold it over at the point of each side?

Ahhh, I get you now. The way I make my skirts is that they have multiple panels and I put a triange in between each panel (just like Suridas method). That is why there is a seam allowance to fold under. You don't have a seam at the top of your triange because you simply cut a hole for your triange rather than sewing two pieces together and leaving the bottom open for your triangle. My method won't work for you and neither will Suridas because the base skirt is made differently.

With your method, you may be able to clip the corner on the skirt part of the point of the triangle and still finish the raw edges and proceed as described earlier. It'll be a little tricky, but doable.

It won't work if you've cut slits. YOu have to have done a gored/paneled skirt for this to work.

It won't work the way you've cut it because even if you snip into the point to create a seam allowance on the side - you'll have a raw edge at the tip that will tear or fray.

The way you've cut yours - you need to just avoid sewing into the point if the gusset or skirt. just stop short & leave the point free- you can top stitch it down on the outside or tack by hand once you turn it rightside out.

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

okay, this is sewing ignorance. I probably don't understand what you mean by seam allowance. I know what that is, but maybe I didn't cut the slit correctly.
I literally just cut one slit into the skirt up to the knees....
so I'm not understanding how you can fold it over at the point of each side?

so my project is a lost cause?

Not if you do it the way I'm suggesting.

Does that seem too hard or just not clear?

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

so my project is a lost cause?

Originally Posted by danidance

The way you've cut yours - you need to just avoid sewing into the point if the gusset or skirt. just stop short & leave the point free- you can top stitch it down on the outside or tack by hand once you turn it rightside out.

does this leave an unfinished edge at the point?I apologize for the ignorance once again!

THANKS SO MUCH TO EVERYONE!

hang tight - i'm going to do a mock up for you....

(and no it won't leave a raw edge)

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

does this leave an unfinished edge at the point?I apologize for the ignorance once again!

THANKS SO MUCH TO EVERYONE!

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

I wanted to try it like this.... but I wasn't sure how to estimate the size of each triangle. are they all triangles of the same size? And you just use 6 of them?
either way the fuschia is already started...so I need to figure out the triangle thing or throw it away, haha.

You can use 6 all the same size - or 5 and leave a slit over one leg - or 5 of the regular size and one longer one in center back for a mermaid effect. A few of my first skirts I did with just cuts in the fabric and had the same difficulties you are having with the top of the triangle - that's why I remade my pattern to make it easier.

Here's what one of the clever women on patternreview.com has to say about it:

to get a great point on a godet or gusset
1. mark stitching lines on garment.
2. stitch along marked lines.
-Stitch up one long side
- At Point, stitch to point, with needle in down position, lift presser foot and pivot work to a 90 degree angle to the stitching line,
-take ONE stitch across top of point
turn and pivot work to stitch back down other side.
Cut through the center of the godet between stitching lines, to point.
Stitch in godet as instructed.
That blunt point at the end will give you a much better finished godet than stitching up one side then pivoting on the point and stitching back down the other.

Originally Posted by Surida

You can use 6 all the same size - or 5 and leave a slit over one leg - or 5 of the regular size and one longer one in center back for a mermaid effect. A few of my first skirts I did with just cuts in the fabric and had the same difficulties you are having with the top of the triangle - that's why I remade my pattern to make it easier.

how do you get a flare if you don't use pieces that are rectangular at the top and flared at the bottom?

Thanks Dani...you're super patient!

Okay. this is tricky from a slit in fabric - here's what I suggest you do to make it a little easier for you - cut your slit into more of a triangle- just measure equally on both sides of the vertical cut & create a better opening to work with.

I used cotton which is tremendously stiff and no - give but was able to get it to work.

Essentially - what's happening is what TigerB is saying - you can see through the fabric to what's underneath to see how the seam lines work and the red mark on top is the intersection.

i'd do more detail but I'm running off to the vet with the pooch right now.

THANKS SO MUCH. I wasn't quite sure how it sounded so easy when you have to fold it under so its weird at the top...
but I'm pretty sure I get it now.
My only problem... I don't think I have enough length at the top...so I might have to rip out one side. No big deal with a sewing machine...but i used a serger with really tight stitches. Ooops. Live and learn!
Thanks again!!

Wow danidance what nice sewing instructions!

Here's a way to cheat - use what you have and just accept the fact that you will have a little pleat/pucker at the tip (still stop short of the point - and stitch across that as recommended in Tigerb's post) - Then - camouflage the little pleat/pucker with a pretty rhinestone button.

By the way - my instructions are not very beginner so I apologize - you can probably find better step-by-step if you search for "Y Seam Construction" in sewing sites or quilt sites. Y Seam is a common quilting technique for creating stars.

Originally Posted by jenlindseys

THANKS SO MUCH. I wasn't quite sure how it sounded so easy when you have to fold it under so its weird at the top...
but I'm pretty sure I get it now.
My only problem... I don't think I have enough length at the top...so I might have to rip out one side. No big deal with a sewing machine...but i used a serger with really tight stitches. Ooops. Live and learn!
Thanks again!!

thanks again...
Hopefully I'll finish this weekend and I'll be sure to post pictures of my first goofy looking trumpet skirt!