[petgecko]

If you're going to use a WYSIWYG, definitely Dreamweaver.
Just be aware that it injects some code into the page that sometimes "breaks" it (your page may not look exactly as you want it to) for users on the new Windows-based Internet Explorer, and possibly Firefox on the PC (though, the Firefox people are pretty good about updating their stuff, so it may not read the code weird any more).

PS: I taught myself HTML about 12 years ago, and the best book, still, is "O'reilly Web Design in a Nutshell"