What makes a costume pro level?

[micamica]

Okay, I am obviously an amateur dancer. After reading a couple of recent threads in the swap meet forum I have realized I am also an amateur with an untrained eye for costumes. I just can not figure out exactly what makes a pro level costume, pro level? I thought it had to do with the amount of beading or sequins, but now I am wondering if it is actually about the "designer label". Any clues for the clueless here? Thanks !
Nikki

[ssipes]

I think that particular designer labels are indicative of pro level costumes. If you buy a pharaonics costume you know its going to provide the look a pro dancer needs, and its also going to stand up to rigourous use.

However, there are also pro level costumes that are not made by these popular designers. A pro costume doesn't have to be made by a trendy popular designer.

Pro costumes usually are heavily beaded with glass beads and glass or crystal stones, though some of the most current designs are more minimalist (but these will have high quality fabrics that are draped, gathered, and cut 'just so'. The will still have quality bead work, just less of it.

Pro costumes provide immaculate fit. When properly sized and altered, they conform to your curves and flatter cleavage, booty, etc. Ultra cheap costumes generally have odd-shaped bra cups, and belts that don't hug the hips and butt, showing gaps and plumbers crack.

Costume designers are just like other designers, sometimes particular designs just aren't appealing to me. Honestly the two-piece and dress lycra costumes by Eman and Hanan are not that appealing to me. I love Pharaonics, and I love bedahs and skirt sets rather than two-pieces.

Sedonia

Originally Posted by micamica

Okay, I am obviously an amateur dancer. After reading a couple of recent threads in the swap meet forum I have realized I am also an amateur with an untrained eye for costumes. I just can not figure out exactly what makes a pro level costume, pro level? I thought it had to do with the amount of beading or sequins, but now I am wondering if it is actually about the "designer label". Any clues for the clueless here? Thanks !
Nikki

[Asra*]

I don't think I pro-level costume has to be a designer label - the label of a good/trusted designer just means the costume can be assumed to be of good quality.

I define a pro-level costume as being:

well-made - meaning designed to stand up to actual dancing for many years without falling apart (assuming it's reasonably well cared for)

well-fitting - meaning designed to flatter the dancer's shape and support what needs supporting

attractively and tastefully covered and decorated

Of course, lots of beading and stones are a hallmark of good (cabaret) costumes since cheap crappy costumes will use less of these, but simple can be just as elegant and a homemade costume can still be suitable for a pro if it fits the above criteria.

[*Shira*]

Originally Posted by micamica

Okay, I am obviously an amateur dancer. After reading a couple of recent threads in the swap meet forum I have realized I am also an amateur with an untrained eye for costumes. I just can not figure out exactly what makes a pro level costume, pro level? I thought it had to do with the amount of beading or sequins, but now I am wondering if it is actually about the "designer label". Any clues for the clueless here? Thanks !
Nikki

I think a costume can be pro quality without being a designer label. I have seen some self-mades that I would consider pro quality.

I'd say part of it has to do with fabric choice - some choices give a more "professional" image than others. For example, fabrics that I would consider suitable for "student" or "hobbyist" rather than "pro" include tissue lame, nylon tricot, and glitter dot. Fabrics that I would consider suitable for "pro" costumes include double georgette, lycra swimsuit fabric, velvet, velveteen, and charmeuse (drapable satin).

Now, I sometimes do use the above fabrics. For example, I sometimes use tissue lame skirts as underskirts beneath a more elaborate top-level fabric, or tissue lame veils for doing double veil. I sometimes use glitter dot for "novelty" costumes such as red/green/gold for Christmas haflas.

Trims are another thing that defines how "professional" a costume looks. The beads-by-the-yard may glitter nicely, but when it comes to costume trim they're better for a student recital than for a professional gig. Sequins-by-the-yard are also more student/hobbyist-looking, as are a belt that looks simple except for the applique plopped in center front and back on the belt. I wouldn't hesitate a bit to suggest these elements if outfitting a student troupe that will be doing only amateur shows. But I wouldn't wear them for a professional gig.

Artistry plays a role. Some costumes are simply beautiful to look at, whereas other costumes are made from questionable color choices, or the designs worked into the bra/belt design are cringe-worthy. For example, I wouldn't want a target culminating in a nipple tassel on a bra cup.

Workmanship on the construction of the costume pieces matters too. If you examine hems of skirts, some are neatly finished, while others are ragged. Sometimes rows of sequins are sewn on crooked. Sometimes bras are not cleanly finished, especially in the back around the hook area.

The reason so many people equate designer names with quality is because certain designers have justifiably earned a reputation for consistently high quality. If you're thinking about buying a costume from swap meet on the basis of the photos alone, it's comforting to know if it was made by a designer who has a reputation for high quality. Photos can't always show you the workmanship details for fabric quality.

[jesennia]

wow these ladies really summed it up well..I was going to say a good fit is important, and also durability of the costume..it should stand up to the constant rigors of performance on a weekly basic. I've owned a handful of neckelmanns and they are on the lower end scale of expensive but I loved them and they were both well fitting (for my figure at least) and durable..they were the only costumes I felt comfortable enough to do floor work in without worrying about busting a bead

[ozma]

Originally Posted by *Shira*

I'd say part of it has to do with fabric choice - some choices give a more "professional" image than others. For example, fabrics that I would consider suitable for "student" or "hobbyist" rather than "pro" include tissue lame, nylon tricot, and glitter dot. Fabrics that I would consider suitable for "pro" costumes include double georgette, lycra swimsuit fabric, velvet, velveteen, and charmeuse (drapable satin).

Trims are another thing that defines how "professional" a costume looks. The beads-by-the-yard may glitter nicely, but when it comes to costume trim they're better for a student recital than for a professional gig. Sequins-by-the-yard are also more student/hobbyist-looking, as are a belt that looks simple except for the applique plopped in center front and back on the belt. I wouldn't hesitate a bit to suggest these elements if outfitting a student troupe that will be doing only amateur shows. But I wouldn't wear them for a professional gig.

Workmanship on the construction of the costume pieces matters too. If you examine hems of skirts, some are neatly finished, while others are ragged. Sometimes rows of sequins are sewn on crooked. Sometimes bras are not cleanly finished, especially in the back around the hook area.

I think it helps to explain that part of what makes the above mentioned finishes and fabrics more "student/hobbiest" is that they require a certain distance to look good. From a distance glitter dot, tissue lame, undecorated expanses of moderately nice fabrics, crooked seams all look fine. But one reason that a pro costume must have a good balance of small and large detail, more refined fabrics, and better craftsmanship is so that it can look good at a wider variety of distances and situations. A pro costume (needs to) good at a distance on stage, closer near your table, or in studio photographs and video shoots...same goes for pro-costumes needing to do well in a variety of lighting.

[outi]

All above and the quality of the materials: both fabric and decoration.
Good fabric keeps the shape. Glass instead of plastic beads and stones. Plastic doesn't glitter at all. Swarovski... you can't beat it.

[Lauren_]

Great answers! Absolutely fit & durability, workmanship & materials.

There's also something I find hard to describe in the quality of the design itself. For instance, a skirt on a pro-quality costume will be shaped to minimize bulk at the top while maximizing movement at the bottom. There are a lot of folks out there who have, perhaps, worked as a seamstress or beader in an atelier who seem to decide "I can do this as well as my boss" and start creating costumes -- but the lack of education in textiles and patternmaking will show.

That's why designers like Eman Zaki (www.emanzaki.com or any costume whose ID number starts with the letters EM at dahal.com) are considered pro-quality, even though her designs are minimalist & don't have as much beadwork as others. She really knows how to create shapes with fabric (and beadword) that flatter the curves and the movements of the wearer. The knockoffs just aren't the same.

A lot depends on the audience, too. For a typical American birthday party, for instance, the audience wants me to look like a 'belly dancer,' and that means bra & belt set, lots of beads, lots of fringe, maybe even coins, and a full swirly skirt, or maybe harem pants.

But to a Middle Eastern audience, that look represents their grandma's belly dancer, those were the styles from thirty to a hundred years ago! If I'm dancing for an audience that's 'in the know' I'm going to choose something more modern, sleeker. (today's styles in Cairo are often miniskirts with little to no beadwork at all).

Designer names are secondary to *most* of us, except where they indicate quality. (I'll pay a little more for Levi's than for no-name jeans, too) But, just like with daytime clothes, there are 'fashionistas' among us who enjoy knowing the latest designers and wearing costumes by the same designers who are outfitting today's stars in Cairo. That's fun, too, if it's your bag.

Oh, the designer name DOES add to the resale value of the costume if it's a well-known designer, only because it lets you communicate a lot in a single word.
(Pharonics = quality, fit & durability, Eman = well-cut fabrics, flattering bras, Sim Moda Evi = tons of glittery stones & heavy beadwork)

[micamica]

Wow, thanks for all the amazing information!! I think I understand now why designer labels would be desirable, it would definitely be taking a risk to purchase a costume over the internet! This is a lot to consider =)
Another question then-do any of you find that certain brands work best for certain body styles? For instance, Madame X really knows how to support a bust, but Lady R really understands the petite figure, etc. This has been so informative, thanks again!!
Nikki

[indigostars]

Do pro cabaret costumes always have a perfectly matching bra, belt, skirt, and/or pants? For instance, I noticed a lot of pro costumes (both being sold and being worn by pro dancers) use the same color/fabric and beaded/cutout design in all pieces. I don't really see, for instance, a 100% turquoise bra and belt set paired with a navy blue skirt. Is this just a current trend or a sign of a pro costume? I hope this makes sense.

[*Shira*]

Originally Posted by indigostars

Do pro cabaret costumes always have a perfectly matching bra, belt, skirt, and/or pants? For instance, I noticed a lot of pro costumes (both being sold and being worn by pro dancers) use the same color/fabric and beaded/cutout design in all pieces. I don't really see, for instance, a 100% turquoise bra and belt set paired with a navy blue skirt. Is this just a current trend or a sign of a pro costume? I hope this makes sense.

I've seen some lovely costumes in which the skirt color contrasted with the bra/belt set color. So long as the colors look good together, such a costume certainly could be considered pro. I think what you're seeing is just a trend among designers.

I bought a pro costume in the past that had royal blue bra, belt, and skirt, with multicolor sequin designs - and the matching veil was fuschia!

[lizajuk]

Professional workmanship on costume.
This could be a designer, it could be a one-off, it could be a creation of the dancer herself. We have a local dancer who makes all her own and they are superb and with the added bonus of being unique.
But nothing will guarantee that even the best designer will come up with something you feel is tasteless!

[meissoun]

Originally Posted by micamica

Another question then-do any of you find that certain brands work best for certain body styles? For instance, Madame X really knows how to support a bust, but Lady R really understands the petite figure, etc. This has been so informative, thanks again!!
Nikki

SIM is best for small boobs! Bella is better if you have more chest.

MEISSOUN

[artemisia_danst]

actually, i have a D, and i find sim costumes give me more coverage. Bella is great when it's custom made, but the ones in the store, their "standard size", are an inchy winchy too small (read: boobs on a shelve and where is my tape)

Originally Posted by meissoun

SIM is best for small boobs! Bella is better if you have more chest.

MEISSOUN

[ChristinaRizkallah]

I have a D cup, too, and I find that Sahar's bras are actually the most complimentary on my figure. Pharaonics bras and Eman bras are very supportive also.

Originally Posted by artemisia_danst

actually, i have a D, and i find sim costumes give me more coverage. Bella is great when it's custom made, but the ones in the store, their "standard size", are an inchy winchy too small (read: boobs on a shelve and where is my tape)

[ChristinaRizkallah]

I think there are several factors regarding having a "Professional" quality costume.

1. The costume has to be well made. There are belly dance costumes that they sell in Egypt for "tourists/novelty" and they are not well made. For a professional, you need a well-made costume. This means the threads are the same color as the fabric, the zipper is the same color as the fabric, the beads/sequences/fringe are sewn on tightly; the stones are glued well.

2. I think the costume needs to fit you well. If the costume doesn't fit well, then the look isn't professional. A professional costume will fit you well. So if you get a professional costume, its up to you to alter it if its too big or too small so that you can make it fit you well.

3. I think the costume cannot look "home-made." Its fine to make your own costumes, but you don't want it to look homemade, you want your craftmanship and seamstress ship to be on a par with a professional shop.

4. Your decorations should be well sewn or well glued onto the costume. You don't want to be dancing on stage will all your beads and fringe flying all over the place. I danced at an event and the dancer before me had her beads flying into the audience and the stage. It was embarrassing because it just brought to my attention how poorly her costume was made; therefore, I did not regard it as professional. Its okay to have the occassional bead or stone fall off, but her case was excessive.

5. I don't think the colors of your costume has anything to do with professionalism. I think that's a matter of personal taste. For example, I have seen some ugly Sahars and Pharaonics in which they combine, in my opinion, bizzare color combinations but that's a function of personal preference, not professionalism.

6. You want the fabric to be good quality. There are some fabrics that I don't think are very "professional" such as confetti foil and lame, but again, this may be a function of personal taste/preference, not a defining characteristic of what is professional vs. not professional.

7. Like some other bhuzers stated, I think to own a costume that you want to call "professional" you should have a costume by a top designer. Costumes by Sahar, Amira El Kattan, Eman Zaki, Madam Abla, Hanan, Mandour, Madam Hekmet, Madam Nousa, Aida Nour, Bella, Topkapi, Sim-I consider these professional quality because these designers have established themselves and built their reputations. I know these costumes are expensive, I think its better to own one of these then two or three not-so-professional looking costumes. A lot of this is a matter of economics, I think dancers who call themselves "professional" should own "professional" costumes. Definitely your skill as a dancer can qualify you as professional, but also your physical appearance is important and this often translates into the costume you are wearing.